got a new axe, what do you suggest now?

I was just about to suggest checking out TV Jones. They make a Filterton copy that's sized to fit in a standard HB cavity.

Not to nit pick, but the 335 and 137 are semi-hollow. That center block really cuts down on feedback. My Gretsch 6118 has a soundpost under the bridge to couple the top to the back. It really sings compared to my old Clipper, which didn't have a sound post.
 
I disagree

faderbug said:
hollow bodies DON'T have a center block and semi hollows DO.

I think better quality hollow bodies do have blocking. Perhaps Light can help us out with this..

Here's a few with solid maple center blocks..

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/srs7/g=guitar/search/detail/base_pid/518240/
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/srs7/g=guitar/search/detail/base_pid/517800/

We actually considered screwing a piece of wood to the back of my friends Artcore to see if that would help..
 
gvarko said:
We actually considered screwing a piece of wood to the back of my friends Artcore to see if that would help..

Jeez gvarko! Just tell him to box the thing up, and sell it to me. Don't go screwing wood in thinking it's gonna help. If your having problems, you need to shield the pickups. It's not rocket science, and can be done for next to nothing.

Hollow bodies do not have a FULL center block. They are constructed like an acoustic guitar. Some have a block that does not fully connect witht the front and back of the guitar. If they did, then they would be considered a Semi-hollow body.

Either way, sell me the Ibanez and go out and get something you like....
 
Get the guitar setup, and then play the guitar as is for a while. You can't start thinking about upgrades untill you know what you have.


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
btw a hollow body jazz box is meant to be played at relatively low volumes usualy without distortion so feedback is never an issue.
 
and light, what is your opinion about putting a sound post in the guitar? (is that tne correct name for it?) i know violins have one and the archtop's design is based on violins.
 
faderbug said:
and light, what is your opinion about putting a sound post in the guitar? (is that tne correct name for it?) i know violins have one and the archtop's design is based on violins.


Totally useless. Violins backs are open to the air, and so they can resonate. Guitars backs are up against a big old damping pad (you). The backs on guitars vibrate very little. If it were to do any good, it would do so on a real, carved top, arch top guitar, not on a solid body guitar with some chambers carved into it. But even on an archtop, they are totally useless, and in fact restrict the motion of the top (which is where the sound comes from, after all).


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
i'm pretty sure that none of the artcores have a center block. ibanez did this on purpose. that said, the am, as, ax, ftm, and txd model guitars can easily be played with a generous amount distortion. they are thinner, so they will not resonate like the bigger jazz boxes in the other series. i've had more feedback problems out of an epiphone les paul than the as193. i'd deffinately like one of those with some tv jones pups dropped in there. as light said, get the damn thing set up, its more than just intonation. a good guitar tech can do things with a nut that many a hooker would envy.
 
i don't understand what the issue is with the feedback. i've played it loud (clean and distorted), and didn't get any.

gonna try the pics again.
 

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the pics got a little messed because i compressed an already compressed pic, i also have an yamaha nylon string, and an yamaha sdgr bass, but here's a last pic, of my beloved ric:
 

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freshmattyp said:
Try making a soundpost for the Artcore, that might cure the feedback issue.



And how, exactly, do you propose getting it inside the guitar? The f-holes are too small to admit anything useful.

Hollow bodies have no blocking inside, at all. Semi-hollows usually have a block which extends the full length of the guitar, though PRS has, in the last few years, made some guitars with a block going from the top to the back (which, whatever they want to call it, is not a soundpost). The soundpost is a very particular concept in violin construction. It is primarily there to couple the top and the back, acoustically, and also to support the bass side of the bridge (the treble side is supported by a brace). On an arch top guitar, there are two braces, and the angle of the braces (anything from almost parallel to an X-brace) helps to define the tone of the instrument. I don't know enough about either instrument to tell what the difference in the angle of the braces is, but I know enough arch top guys to know they are very particular about their brace angles (as are we flat top guys, by the way).



Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
Light said:
And how, exactly, do you propose getting it inside the guitar? The f-holes are too small to admit anything useful.

Whoa there. I'm not about to tell the luthier his business. There was a discussion about a similar issue on the Gretsch Pages a little while ago and I'm just passing along the advice from that thread.

http://www.gretschpages.com/discus/viewtopic.php?p=60375&highlight=feedback#60375

I personally noticed a difference between my old Clipper, with no soundpost, and the new Anniversary with a soundpost.
 
Feedback

postalblue said:
i don't understand what the issue is with the feedback. i've played it loud (clean and distorted), and didn't get any.

Feedback only happened after we upgraded the PU's. The best sound we got out of that thing was with the stock PU's...
 
gvarko said:
Feedback only happened after we upgraded the PU's. The best sound we got out of that thing was with the stock PU's...

oh, i see. well, we should see what happens soon. i'll change the pickups, and let you guys know what my results are. the worst thing that can happen is i'll have a pair of pickups to spare. if i decide to keep the stock pu's, i might do a little customizing, like putting in some push pots, then coil-tapping and/or paralel linking the humbuckers.
 
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