Check what I got for Christmas...

[muttley600]

Hi Muttley, and thanks.

I have my first question already. Around the soundhole on the top, there is a channel that has been routed for the rosette. I would rather a plain top (without a rosette), so I was wondering if I could just flip the top over? The routed channel will then be on the underside of the top.

There might be a 'good' and 'bad' side to the top, but looking at them, I can't see any difference.

And I'm thinking about a Tru-Oil finish, because it's easy and looks good (from the examples I've seen). What do you reckon?

As long as you have enough top to sit on the ribs that shouldn't be a problem. I'm assuming it has an even thickness across its width at present. I'd still put the rosette in whatever you decide, it serves a purpose structurally in that it helps stop any splits or cracks that occur at the soundhole from spreading. It also gives a rigidity to that area. Whats the top made of? Hows the bracing? Have you drawn up a work flow?

Tru oil is fine. It's not actually a "true" oil finish strange as it seems. It's basically linseed oil that has a added polymerisers added to give it a better harder finish that you can build relatively quickly and easily. In both application and finish it behaves more like an oil varnish like those on violins.You can get a good looking and relatively hard finish with it. There is a process that is easy to follow that gives excellent results without too much effort. When your ready I'll walk you through it. It involves a lot of prep work and a good deal of time and patience, but no great skill.

 

[muttley600]

He's my brother, the guy who bought me the kit. He's just kidding around.

Thanks for sticking up for me, though.

telepaul warned me he'd got you this sometime ago. He said you'd be bugging a few of us with questions. Have fun with it though. Not sure of anything or best practice just check in..

First thing of your worksheet is to measure and photograph everything. At least I hope it is. I also keep notes all the time. A workshop dairy is invaluable for future reference. I have them going back 20 years. I can check bracing, top thickness, stiffness/weight, dimensions of just about anything I've ever done or read up on how I jigged something or problems overcome etc.. Get in the habit now.

 

[32-20-Blues]

As long as you have enough top to sit on the ribs that shouldn't be a problem. I'm assuming it has an even thickness across its width at present. I'd still put the rosette in whatever you decide, it serves a purpose structurally in that it helps stop any splits or cracks that occur at the soundhole from spreading. It also gives a rigidity to that area. Whats the top made of? Hows the bracing? Have you drawn up a work flow?

Tru oil is fine. It's not actually a "true" oil finish strange as it seems. It's basically linseed oil that has a added polymerisers added to give it a better harder finish that you can build relatively quickly and easily. In both application and finish it behaves more like an oil varnish like those on violins.You can get a good looking and relatively hard finish with it. There is a process that is easy to follow that gives excellent results without too much effort. When your ready I'll walk you through it. It involves a lot of prep work and a good deal of time and patience, but no great skill.

Brilliant, thanks for the reply.

Yes, the top has an even thickness. It's made from mahogany, one piece. The bracing is spruce, and I've checked that it sits flat so that I'll be able to get a good glue join to the underside of the top.

I will put the rosette in, I didn't realise about the practical function of it.

I've drawn up a list of what needs to be done and when, and what tools / materials I'll need to get. Very detailed instructions came with it, so I went through those with a pencil and made my own additions, notes, underlines etc. I have identified and counted all the parts, and checked them all for obvious flaws. Everything looks good. I measured all the parts, and made a note of what I would need to cut, and where (some pieces are cut to size, most aren't). I got a piece of paper with an actual size plan of the uke with the kit, so I photocopied that a bunch of times. I did this so that I can use it for tracing / positioning of the braces / marking etc, without being worried about having to keep it in good condition.

First thing on my list is building a jig from plywood to hold the sides in place. I'm going to do that tomorrow.

I read everything I could find on Tru Oil at the instrument makers forum. Glad to hear it doesn't take any special skills. Also glad to hear that it goes on quickly.

I also found a bunch of stuff about ho good this uke sounds if it's done right.

Thanks so much for the advice, Muttley.

 

[Roguetitan]

I built a couple of those Saga Tele kits a few years back and they turned out very well-having everything pre-drilled and the neck and body pocket matched up from the factory is a great time saver. It only took about an hour or so to assemble everything once the finish was on it. I'm guessing the les Paul is a bolt on neck or it there a neck thru option now?

Anfotan
Yes it is a bolt-on neck, it has a flamed maple top and a red Mahagony back;
the wood quality is very impressive considering the cost... also considering the cost I can let him build a couple of the kits.
He is wanting to do the top transparent red but I think I will try to talk him into just tung oil and mat poly urethane top coat.

 

[muttley600]

Brilliant, thanks for the reply.

Yes, the top has an even thickness. It's made from mahogany, one piece. The bracing is spruce, and I've checked that it sits flat so that I'll be able to get a good glue join to the underside of the top.

I will put the rosette in, I didn't realise about the practical function of it.

I've drawn up a list of what needs to be done and when, and what tools / materials I'll need to get. Very detailed instructions came with it, so I went through those with a pencil and made my own additions, notes, underlines etc. I have identified and counted all the parts, and checked them all for obvious flaws. Everything looks good. I measured all the parts, and made a note of what I would need to cut, and where (some pieces are cut to size, most aren't). I got a piece of paper with an actual size plan of the uke with the kit, so I photocopied that a bunch of times. I did this so that I can use it for tracing / positioning of the braces / marking etc, without being worried about having to keep it in good condition.

First thing on my list is building a jig from plywood to hold the sides in place. I'm going to do that tomorrow.

I read everything I could find on Tru Oil at the instrument makers forum. Glad to hear it doesn't take any special skills. Also glad to hear that it goes on quickly.

I also found a bunch of stuff about ho good this uke sounds if it's done right.

Thanks so much for the advice, Muttley.

Great, sounds like your set. What glue are you going to be using?

Your biggest challenge with tru oil and mahogany is going to be getting the grain filled right. So get some scrap mahogany with similar grain and you can experiment on that before you hit the real thing. Birchwood Casey who make tru oil claim you can use it as a filler by a mixture of rubbing the stuff in the grain and sanding dust. I've never liked that method.

It really depends what sort of look your after. If you want a flat satin finish it's great. With care you can also get a pretty good gloss to it but that requires a lot more attention to detail. As always with finishing my advice is test on scrap first.

 

[TelePaul]

Great, sounds like your set. What glue are you going to be using?

Your biggest challenge with tru oil and mahogany is going to be getting the grain filled right. So get some scrap mahogany with similar grain and you can experiment on that before you hit the real thing. Birchwood Casey who make tru oil claim you can use it as a filler by a mixture of rubbing the stuff in the grain and sanding dust. I've never liked that method.

It really depends what sort of look your after. If you want a flat satin finish it's great. With care you can also get a pretty good gloss to it but that requires a lot more attention to detail. As always with finishing my advice is test on scrap first.

i has a guitar

 

[32-20-Blues]

Great, sounds like your set. What glue are you going to be using?

Your biggest challenge with tru oil and mahogany is going to be getting the grain filled right. So get some scrap mahogany with similar grain and you can experiment on that before you hit the real thing. Birchwood Casey who make tru oil claim you can use it as a filler by a mixture of rubbing the stuff in the grain and sanding dust. I've never liked that method.

It really depends what sort of look your after. If you want a flat satin finish it's great. With care you can also get a pretty good gloss to it but that requires a lot more attention to detail. As always with finishing my advice is test on scrap first.

I'm not sure about the glue. Any suggestions? (Apart from hide).

And yep, a satin finish is what I want. I'll get some scrap and test it all beforehand.

Thanks again.

 

[muttley600]

Hide glue is not as hard to use a people think. The best bet for an alternative that is widely used in the industry and has a tried and tested history is Titebond Original. Make sure you get "Original". Don't use other Titebond products on instruments. There are others but here in the UK and Ireland this is pretty much standard. I use it quite a bit as well as hide.

You should be able to hunt out an 8oz bottle, you'll only really need a 4oz, some ebay traders do it. It has a good shelf life if you keep it from freezing.