axeman_ukl
New member
has anybody tried or owned one of these do they make the monitors sound more neutral in your room?
rs100 is 100kg/m3 as far as I’m aware the trapping did help but not as much as I thought it would.
would I be right in saying when I run a tone test and use a spl meter in my mixing position I would be looking for a result of as little movement in the readings from tone 1 to tone 300 ?
How much movement in readings would be classed as acceptable?
Dropped from the ceiling -- A few 2'x4'x4" traps make a nice cloud.what are "cloud" traps?
Eh, you do what you can. Not every room is/can be a viable space. Just as not every car can race at Daytona.well what the f*** am i gonna do then
Dropped from the ceiling -- A few 2'x4'x4" traps make a nice cloud.
Eh, you do what you can. Not every room is/can be a viable space. Just as not every car can race at Daytona.
A quick little discussion on room layout and treatment ideas:
http://www.independentrecording.net/irn/columns/gstep/index.php?id=80
This is not the be-all and end-all on room design, it covers just some basic ideas. Also, it's not absolutely necessary to follow every last detail to get a servicable room layout, but the closer one can realistically within their abilities follow them in the home, the better off one'll probably be.
G.
I'd personally shoot for the combination that'll give me a room that falls in the middle. That is, I don't want first reflections that'll give me phasing or slapback echo issues, but a completely dead room is not very nice either. If your room has lots of flat, reflective surfaces and sound pretty live all on it's own, thne some degree of absorption is probably in order, but not so much to make for a dead room. If your room sounds pretty "normal" - i.e. not too live, but not dead either, than maybe some more diffusion might be called for over absorption.In a small room like mine should I even consider "live" type diffusers or should I deaden as much as possible?
The bookshelf may help best as a diffuser/absorber in a direct reflection spot. It's effect in the corner may or may not help, depending upon it's depth and the amount of books actually in it.I have furniture in my mix room (against the back wall is my bed, a bookshelf in one corner, and a dresser in the other) are these pieces hurting or helping me with their locations?
I'll leave many of the detail questions re bass traps to those with more tech knowledge on them than I have, but in general I'd say better to have a "poorer" bass trap than none at all.I'd personally shoot for the combination that'll give me a room that falls in the middle. That is, I don't want first reflections that'll give me phasing or slapback echo issues, but a completely dead room is not very nice either. If your room has lots of flat, reflective surfaces and sound pretty live all on it's own, thne some degree of absorption is probably in order, but not so much to make for a dead room. If your room sounds pretty "normal" - i.e. not too live, but not dead either, than maybe some more diffusion might be called for over absorption.The bookshelf may help best as a diffuser/absorber in a direct reflection spot. It's effect in the corner may or may not help, depending upon it's depth and the amount of books actually in it.
The mattress in the bed probably helps OK, but if you have no headboard at all or a solid flat headboard directly behind you, you can be getting some unwanted wall reflections. A bunch of throw pillows laid up against the headboard may help in that regard.
Look for balance between reflective surfaces and non-reflective ones, tending to have the non-reflective or diffusing surfaces on the direct reflection points between your speakers and your head, and the rest of the surface area not being totally bright but not totally dead either.
G.
+/-6dB (ish) would be a dream space. +/-10dB is fairly typical for a nice freaking room.
A 10x10 is probably looking at +/-35-40dB (more likely +10-15 and -35-40, or a potential 50dB swing).