Which Mogami XLR do you use?
- Thread starter gongli
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Tadpui
Well-known member
Every studio cable I've bought in the last 2 years has come from Monoprice.com. Made in China, cheap as hell, and actually very good cable with very good connectors. All of the XLR and TRS cables that I use now are from Monoprice's pro audio line. I say buy the cheapest cable with the best connectors that you can find. If it craps out, buy another one just like it. You'll still be ahead on the price compared to Mogami, Monster, Canare, ProCo, etc.
If you're to a point in your home recordings where the cable is your limiting factor, then by all means go for the gold. But unless your room acoustics, microphones, preamps, converters, and engineering skills are all pretty damn near top-notch, your cabling is not going to be your biggest worry
If you're to a point in your home recordings where the cable is your limiting factor, then by all means go for the gold. But unless your room acoustics, microphones, preamps, converters, and engineering skills are all pretty damn near top-notch, your cabling is not going to be your biggest worry
Bobbsy
Boring Old Git
If you can "hear" a difference in an XLR cable you're probably deluding yourself. The actual differences are in terms of how long they last and how easily they handle when you're coiling or uncoiling.
And, like the others, I don't buy Mogami or any other "brand" of XLR cable. Generally I just buy a reel of cable in bulk and a pile of Neutrik XLRs and solder my own. However, if I need something quick, I'll just buy whatever cheapie is on the shelf at the local shop. it won't last or handle as well as the ones I make but there won't be any difference in sound.
And, like the others, I don't buy Mogami or any other "brand" of XLR cable. Generally I just buy a reel of cable in bulk and a pile of Neutrik XLRs and solder my own. However, if I need something quick, I'll just buy whatever cheapie is on the shelf at the local shop. it won't last or handle as well as the ones I make but there won't be any difference in sound.
Pretty much but, cables do not exist in isolation, they are driven from non-zero impedance electronics*.
Now modern electronics, even very cheap stuff, has low output impedances (aka Z) usually only a few 100Ohms. "Pro" gear will have outputs Zs of less than 100, maybe less than 50 R and some (by a simple electronics trick) essentially ZERO OP Z.
How does this matter? Say you had a 10mtr cable of 200 picofarads per mtr capacitance and a pre amp with the lousy opZ of 1,000 Ohms? The response would be 3dB down at 80kHz and there would be some loss at the "magic" 20kHz. Of course almost all gear now is better than this so cables in the 10 to say 50mtr region are of no consequence.
The big exception to all this of course is guitar cables. The wires are no different from any other sort but the driving impedance is! It is essentially ***t! Resistive, up to a few k, inductive and worst of all VARIES as you select pickups and Jodrell the pots and tone control.
So you WILL likely find audible differences between guitar cables and this is not even a simple "top chop" (or "tone suck" as the gitists will have it) but changing a cable can shift the whole PUP/cap' resonance and give a very different tone.
*This is also the reason behind that other Great Delusion, the "true" bypass pedal but that is a bit complex, 'nother day!
Dave.
A cable either passes signal or it doesn't. In other words it works or it don't.
Sure, there are differences in quality. Such as better shielding, better conductors, better durability, better connectors. etc.
But for a home computer based studio, you are not running long lengths, and alot of connections are balanced so there are less noise problems.
Cables are also the nickel and dime budget breaker. It can add up fast.
So, my point is don't go overboard when you're starting out. Budget cables like Hosa are just fine.
Without abuse they'll last forever, and I'd
bet with a blindfold on you couldn't tell any sonic difference between it and Mogami.
;-)
Now keep in mind my answer is geared to the op who posted in the newbie secton. It is safe to assume they are starting out.
For myself, who is running analog gear, some balanced and some not, I use the best I can get and afford.
For me that involves making my own cables with Canare cable and Neutrik connectors.
Sure, there are differences in quality. Such as better shielding, better conductors, better durability, better connectors. etc.
But for a home computer based studio, you are not running long lengths, and alot of connections are balanced so there are less noise problems.
Cables are also the nickel and dime budget breaker. It can add up fast.
So, my point is don't go overboard when you're starting out. Budget cables like Hosa are just fine.
Without abuse they'll last forever, and I'd
bet with a blindfold on you couldn't tell any sonic difference between it and Mogami.
;-)
Now keep in mind my answer is geared to the op who posted in the newbie secton. It is safe to assume they are starting out.
For myself, who is running analog gear, some balanced and some not, I use the best I can get and afford.
For me that involves making my own cables with Canare cable and Neutrik connectors.
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"bet with a blindfold on you couldn't tell any sonic difference between it and Mogami."
+1 RFR. There is no easy way for the home recording jockey to do a blind, instant A//B test of anything indeed, setting up such tests is an expensive and protracted business (which is why liars like Russ A and Co get away with murder).
Bit of cash saving advice re cabling? You can buy a very cheap, 3mm OD FOIL shielded two core cable. Not good enough mechanically for "motive" use, e.g. mic lead but much of the wiring in a "studio" is static, runs to monitors are an example or from a synth to amp/AI.
This thinner cable is a doddle to strip and the plain drain wire makes plug building super fast and easy, no strands to bunch, twist and tin. No chance of shorting whiskers either. You can also get a LOT more into a multiway like "D" connector.
Dave.
+1 RFR. There is no easy way for the home recording jockey to do a blind, instant A//B test of anything indeed, setting up such tests is an expensive and protracted business (which is why liars like Russ A and Co get away with murder).
Bit of cash saving advice re cabling? You can buy a very cheap, 3mm OD FOIL shielded two core cable. Not good enough mechanically for "motive" use, e.g. mic lead but much of the wiring in a "studio" is static, runs to monitors are an example or from a synth to amp/AI.
This thinner cable is a doddle to strip and the plain drain wire makes plug building super fast and easy, no strands to bunch, twist and tin. No chance of shorting whiskers either. You can also get a LOT more into a multiway like "D" connector.
Dave.
Armistice
Son of Yoda
Soldering skills are incredibly useful and XLRs are just about the easiest way to start though!
I used to have soldering skills but they've lapsed... and I think I bought too small a soldering iron last time I went shopping.... Bobbsy - do me a favour and point me to the exact soldering iron, on any Australian distributor's website, that you'd use for general cabling, and I'll pick one up...
Sorry for the hijack OP...
I used to have soldering skills but they've lapsed... and I think I bought too small a soldering iron last time I went shopping.... Bobbsy - do me a favour and point me to the exact soldering iron, on any Australian distributor's website, that you'd use for general cabling, and I'll pick one up...
Sorry for the hijack OP...
I have used one of these for several years now...PROFESSIONAL 48W LCD DISPLAY SOLDERING IRON STATION NEW: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
And I was a dyed in the wool Magnastat man, still a great station but fookin expensive.
Talking of "soldering skills" I have not tried any for some months. I have developed "Wet ARMD" (Google) in my left eye and my close up depth perception is shot. I dare say I can larn again but I feel too fekkin old!
Dave.
Bobbsy
Boring Old Git
I used to have soldering skills but they've lapsed... and I think I bought too small a soldering iron last time I went shopping.... Bobbsy - do me a favour and point me to the exact soldering iron, on any Australian distributor's website, that you'd use for general cabling, and I'll pick one up...
Sorry for the hijack OP...
I've had the exact solder station that I use for almost 20 years and it's not made any more, but...
The one I have is a Taiwan brand call Xytronics and it's sold in Australia by RS (and others).
The one that's closest to mine from the current range seems to be LF-1600 | SOLDERING STATION | Xytronics
It's a bit more powerful than the one ecc83 recommended but I've found it useful when forced to use lead free solder which needs a higher temp. The other thing is that RS stocks interchangeable tips (and there some on eBay as well) which is handy after a while.
As I say, my model (136 ESD) is long since discontinued but it still works fine and I can still buy parts so thats a good sign.
I have used a HAKA 80watt station (J-Beam Antennas Ltd) and they are BLISS!
Never be afraid soldering noobs of a high wattage iron you can get in quick and get the job done before the heat travels far.
That said do not go for lead free solder unless forced to by legislation, lead 60/40 is still available in UK, just not in the High street.
If you HAVE to use Pbfree solder buy the really good stuff with a Silver content.
Pleased to see that iron of Bobb's comes with a brass wool wiper. The old idea of a damp sponge is gone, the thermal shock cracks the bit's iron plating especially at Pbfree temps. If you cannot find brass wool use kitchen paper.
Dave.
Never be afraid soldering noobs of a high wattage iron you can get in quick and get the job done before the heat travels far.
That said do not go for lead free solder unless forced to by legislation, lead 60/40 is still available in UK, just not in the High street.
If you HAVE to use Pbfree solder buy the really good stuff with a Silver content.
Pleased to see that iron of Bobb's comes with a brass wool wiper. The old idea of a damp sponge is gone, the thermal shock cracks the bit's iron plating especially at Pbfree temps. If you cannot find brass wool use kitchen paper.
Dave.
rayc
retroreprobate
I'm still happily using the curly cable that came with my Roland Drum machine in 87.
I've bought other, more expensive, cables since then but that simple cable is a go to because it works, nothing to screw or solder and a good length.
If it works -and by that I mean doesn't crackle, cut out or is so long that it knocks off some top end (& that'd have to be pretty long) - then it's good enough.
I've bought other, more expensive, cables since then but that simple cable is a go to because it works, nothing to screw or solder and a good length.
If it works -and by that I mean doesn't crackle, cut out or is so long that it knocks off some top end (& that'd have to be pretty long) - then it's good enough.
Dogbreath
Im an ex-spurt
true dat.
Over the years, I bought Monster, Mogami and ProCo. I've also got a pile of cheap cords.
Not one iota of difference in "sound".
OP... practice your soldering and make your own. You'll end up with Mogami quality at less than half the price.
Xcaliber
New member
Every studio cable I've bought in the last 2 years has come from Monoprice.com. Made in China, cheap as hell, and actually very good cable with very good connectors. All of the XLR and TRS cables that I use now are from Monoprice's pro audio line. I say buy the cheapest cable with the best connectors that you can find. If it craps out, buy another one just like it. You'll still be ahead on the price compared to Mogami, Monster, Canare, ProCo, etc.
If you're to a point in your home recordings where the cable is your limiting factor, then by all means go for the gold. But unless your room acoustics, microphones, preamps, converters, and engineering skills are all pretty damn near top-notch, your cabling is not going to be your biggest worry
While I have not (yet) purchased any pro-audio gear from Monoprice I have purchased a fair amount of other cables (HDMI, charging cables, etc.) and I am very happy with them. If you don't want to solder your own I would go with one from Monoprice.
witzendoz
Senior Member
I have never noticed any difference in the sound between cables, however I have noticed that the difference in quality comes with how long is it before the cable breaks after repeated use, and I have had a cheap cable play up when used with phantom due to the insulation being bad.
So the things to look at when buying cable are
1, Thickness of the cores
2, how good is the shielding
3, how good is the insulation.
Another thing is that the better quality cables are usually easier to solder, I really like the cables that have an actual ground wire and shield. But the bottom line is that you don't need to spend on megger dollar cable to get good quality cable if you shop around.
Alan.
So the things to look at when buying cable are
1, Thickness of the cores
2, how good is the shielding
3, how good is the insulation.
Another thing is that the better quality cables are usually easier to solder, I really like the cables that have an actual ground wire and shield. But the bottom line is that you don't need to spend on megger dollar cable to get good quality cable if you shop around.
Alan.
Bobbsy
Boring Old Git
If you're to a point in your home recordings where the cable is your limiting factor, then by all means go for the gold. But unless your room acoustics, microphones, preamps, converters, and engineering skills are all pretty damn near top-notch, your cabling is not going to be your biggest worry
Provided it's a "normal" spec, I can't see a point where cabling is ever going to be a limiting factor--unless it's too short to put the mic where you need to!
Seriously, for mic cables I'm much more concerned about it's coiling characteristics (nobody wants a stiff cable that kinks) and the build quality of the connectors (basically I choose Neutrik or Neutrik). As soon as I see a cable advertised as "sounding good" I think "audiophool rubbish" and run a mile.