he walls will be a 703 equivalent that I found at a boat yard that belongs to a friend of mine. He took down a ceiling in
If you haven't seen 703, or the boatyard stuff, I think you are misinformed. Forgive me if I'm wrong, but if this is bouyancy insulation, it is closed cell foam, not rigid fiberglass like 703, however, not seeing the boatyard stuff myself, I may be wrong.
Nicest thing is that I should have a total build cost under $300.00.
Perhaps, perhaps not..
The walls will be a 703 equivalent that I found at a boat yard that belongs to a friend of mine. He took down a ceiling in his new shop to open up the room and stacked the insulation in the corner. So, inside to out is: sheet insulation, 1/2" sheetrock, R30 insulation, 1"sheetrock. Air gap in the middle of the 2x4's sitting on the 2x10 base.
You are planning a 2 leaf system that has isolation value of little more than a standard residential wall, even with 1" of exterior sheetrock. What will make a great difference, is to "decouple" the interior leaf, via RC. What about doors, seals, and the achilles heal of booths....ventilation? Those two things alone may render your estimate a little short. Even a SET of homemade heavy door will run you $100, add seals, theres another $100, sealable latchsets-$40-$60, neoprene floating pucks....caulking....trim....RC......insulation$$$ and then a ventilation system.... $$$$$
And then again, you might consider building a complete floating interior shell, with an exterior shell of MDF. Both having a framework of either wood or metal studs. Depth of airgap between the shiething of both shells is up to you. The exterior shell is just 4 walls, one of which gets door framing, between the existing ceiling and floor. Sealed of course. The interior shell, is a complete floating structure within. Walls should be built ON a floating floor, which actually could be a 2x4 frame, laid with the face down, on a visqueen layer, and then neoprene pucks. This too would have one wall with door framing. Build the walls on this frame with metal studs. No need for RC then, as you would have double walls. Shieth with 1 layer of 5/8" drywall, and then another layer of 1/2", but caulk every joint of the first layer before applying mud over the joints. Then rock with the second layer overlapping all previous joints. The ceiling could also be metal studs, supported by the walls. Once all this drywall work is done, you can simply build wood frames(with a fastening cleat)with fabric stretched over them. Stick in panels of 703 from the back, and fasten them to the interior walls with panel adhesive(on the cleats or rear edge of the frame.) If you screw them, caulk the screws. For the doors, realize this is the weak link. Every gap in the framing around the jamb must be sealed. The gap between the door and jambs must have gasketing seals. This is a TWO door system. One on the exterior shell, one on the interior shell. For the ventilation, this will require some investigation on the net. There are fans, small HVAC etc, but in order to truly vent the booth, you need a supply and return, each of which must penetrate the booth. Each of which requires duct work to the fan unit, that also have enough diameter to allow low speed supply and return of air, and enough bends in the ducts, to keep sound of the units from reaching the booth. This is why a complete set of plans for a booth has yet to surface here, as each person has his own set of conditions, floor space, existing HVAC etc etc etc. I'm just trying to let you know, your plan might as well be a residential wall system, as it will NOT successfully isolate LOW FREQUENCY sounds. Decoupling and MASS are usually the only ways to do this, but it all depends on what you will put up with, what you existing noise floor is, what is going on in the room that the booth is built in, how tolerant your family is, etc etc etc. I'm just trying to familiarize you with a more stringent set of construction techniques to maximize you isolation.
Here is a plan for you to look at. It has double wall system, double doors, double glass. Corner absorption, but the ventilation system is NOT shown, as everyperson has thier own set of limitations, and existing HVAC to connect to, or a unit of thier own choosing. This is just a basic plan...with 3 layers drywall on the interior, and what every you require on the exterior shell...well, enough of my ramble.
fitZ
oops, for some reason, my drawing file isn't uploading...
I'll try again later.
I'll try and post mine again.
