"Man! if highschool had been more like this ....." :=) While I don't deny that I'm absolutely wonderful (my wife and I have a strange and wonderful relationship - she thinks I'm strange, I think I'm wonderful) Maybe this time around you have more motivation to pay attention in "class" , as in "now I KNOW what's in it for me" - Whatever the reason, glad I could shed some light.
Just a little more - SkyBlueLou - you're correct in your "assumption" - a powered monitor needs shielded inputs just like any other mic or line level device. In fact, using un-shielded speaker wire into a powered monitor will cause at least a little bit of hum, and usually a lot depending on how the wires are routed (what other wires they are next to)
Having only 6 foot cables to your
MSP-5's, you probably won't notice much (if any) difference between generic guitar cables and high-dollar replacements. Going with special low capacitance cable may get you some slight degree of increased clarity and a tiny bit more high frequency response, but unless you've done all the other esoteric things acoustically, you'd be hard-pressed to notice, even if your ears are beyond golden, all the way to platinum. Besides, unless you're into soldering you will have a hard time finding reasonably priced improvements to 1/4" connectors. The Monster stuff is 'way overpriced, they gotta get their advertising budget SOMEWHERE :=) the only way I know to get truly low capacitance cable combined with good 1/4" connectors, is to "roll yer own" - The best way to do that (that I'm aware of) is to buy bulk "digital" cable ( the stuff that is usually sold as 110 ohm for AES cables) and buy Neutrik ( I prefer them over Switchcraft, better strain relief and easier to work with) and solder your own custom cables. Anybody needing a push-start on soldering, speak up here and I'll re-do an old post I wrote on another BBS a while back. The bulk cable normally sold as digital cable, usually has a very low capacitance, such as 8-10 picofarads/foot. This is because when you transfer a square wave signal such as digital pulses, the bandwidth needs to be at least 10 TIMES as high for any given frequency as it does for a sine wave (analog) - if not, the cable capacitance and series resistance get together and form an integrator. This basic electronic function causes leading edges of pulses to be rounded off, and if the cable is long enough or high-capacitance enough or both, the integration can even cause time-shifting of the crossover points of the digital signal. This introduces phasing and jitter into the picture, and if bad enough it can be heard by a retired jackhammer operator.
StoneB - "Are the built-in amlifiers in powered monitors supposed to have the same impedance as the speakers themselves? for example, 8 ohms?"
No, the built-in amps themselves would have a super-low source impedance the same as I explained in the previous post. The amp needs to be able to exert precise control over the speaker, and as such needs to be able to "slap it around at will", - one possible analogy would be (assuming you could actually ride one) putting a 600 horsepower motor on a bicycle. The engine is the amplifier, the bike is the speaker. In this case, the bicycle has absolutely NO CHOICE but to do what the engine wants, at least until the engine kills the bike and you. Now, consider a Volkswagen van, weighing about 2800 pounds, with a 36 horsepower engine (think 1964) Here, you may WANT to go 180 MPH up that hill, and you may ASK for that to happen by stepping on the gas pedal hard, but the power isn't there so gravity, wind, inertia, BB's in the road, all get in the way of your desire to go 180 up the hill.
"I also just noticed that my computer monitor is buzzing from the back, I never noticed that before, could that have an effect on my monitors, I made sure they were shielded." - This shouldn't have an effect on speakers, it's usually the other way around. You don't state the approximate frequency here, so there could be several possibilities as to the source. If the freq is low, you may have a resonant core in the transformer of the power supply in the monitor. Most computer monitors don't pay much attention to things that will drive audio people crazy. One of my 21" monitors needed 4 different small pieces of self-adhesive weatherstripping placed inside to stop vibrations. This only occured with sound coming out the speakers, but I wasn't able to localize it until I swept the room (no, not with a broom, anybody needing a clarification please post back) If the sound is higher freq, like almost out of hearing range, it could be the horizontal freq of the monitor; although, any more that's usually too high for dogs to hear very well, much less humans)
StoneB - "Also... would my amp's high wattage be something to consider when dealing with this issue?
What's the highest gauge wire you can get?"
High wattage in an amp is better, all other factors being equal (they rarely are =) Generally, the higher the wattage of an amp, the lower the source impedance in order to pass more current. This in turn will improve the damping factor (load impedance/source impedance) also, larger amps tend to have bigger power supplies, and so will more faithfully follow the input signal and not clip peaks on loud transients. This is also better. The quickest way to fry your speakers, other than plugging them into the power outlet to see what 60 hZ sounds like, is to try to get lots of sound out of a small amp. This causes the amp to clip, and a straight DC level into a speaker nullifies the natural current limiting tendency of an inductor (speaker coil) to resist current change. This straight DC (the flat top of the clipped part) causes the voice coil to heat up abnormally, and if allowed to continue can literally burn out the voice coil. This is common more for tweeters, since they usually have smaller gauge (bigger number) wire and less inductance than a woofer voice coil.
Once more, without being part of another explanation - Wire GAUGE is a number that is INVERSE (but not proportional) to physical wire DIAMETER. Up to sizes we wouldn't care about here, the smaller the gauge number, the larger the wire diameter. This gets confusing when people (including yours truly) refer to "higher gauge wire", really meaning "bigger". There is no fixed ratio of diameter or resistance from one gauge to the next, hence the need for wire tables in order to properly size an electrical system.
In electrician's terms, ampacity tables are used to size wires for acceptable voltage drops (losses) in various conditions. In audiophile terms, things get cloudier and individuals need to know some of the theory - but the main thing to consider here would be sound. If it sounds better, who cares why, other than to maybe take it even further. Conversely, if it sounds WORSE, we need to know some of the possibilities to explore in order to improve it. Since we are dealing with AC signals, there are several more factors than just wire resistance to consider. These would include capacitance, inductance, length, juxtaposition, contact material of connectors, sometimes characteristic impedance of cables (usuallly not with audio, more with digital and video signals) and material. A lot of people seem to think that Gold is a better conductor than copper. In actual fact, gold has only 71.2% of the conductivity of copper, where silver has 106%. Aluminum is 64.9%, nickel is at 25%, platinum is at 17.5%, lead and tin (the two elements of non-silver solder) are at 8.35% and 15%. (This is probably one of the (lesser) reasons it is recommended that a good mechanical connection be made before soldering; if the signal has to go thru solid solder, the resistance would be slightly higher) The main reason gold and silver are used on contacts and connectors is that they are less corrosion prone.
If I missed anything, feel free to remind me. If I got anytning wrong, it's Littledog's fault. :=) Remember, sticking your finger in a light socket may be a cheap perm, but it may be more "perm" than you wanted... Steve