teac 80-8 sadness

7

70ssound

Member
hi guys----
I bought a teac 80-8 that was perfectly functioning and when it arrived via ups the other day the machine would not play, fast foward, or re-wind, even though it looks like every other function on the machine works.....

Why could this be? Does anyone know why a machine would simply not play, rewind, or fast foward, even though it worked fine a day prior? DOes this sound like the belts simply fell off or something easy like that? Or does this machine sound like it's ruined?

Second, does anyone here know someone in the southern new jersey area that can repair this ? I can travel to philly if need be.......I just want this thing to work .....and I feel like im going to go fucking insane and I'm this close to throwing the thing in the fire.

Sorry, just venting like a madman there.....by the way - what's up ghost, and reel person....how you guys been? ??

JOhn
 
Hi John! :)

Long time no see!

I would look at the fuses first to see if one of them blew...have there been any electrical storms in your area lately? We had one here yesterday and lots of folks had stuff fried from that.

If it was the belt, the reel motors would still work so it's either a fuse or a blown voltage regulator transistor...hopefully it's just a fuse. ;)

Cheers! :)
 
Not knowing your background with this machine I’ll add a couple things...

I couldn’t tell by your phraseology whether you have used this machine before or if you first saw it after UPS delivered it and it didn't work. So, I’m wondering if you were told it worked or if you actually know it worked before.

Also… Are you familiar enough with the 80-8 to be sure you have the tape threaded right?

Does the capstan spin when the right tension arm is lifted by the tape or by hand?

Everything Ghost said plus if the fuses are ok check the switch that the right tension arm engages when lifted.

~Tim
:)
 
Ghost, beck, thanks for the prompt replies! You guys along with the whole analog community just rule.
Alrighty, here we go....


I bought the machine on ebay.....the auction ended and no one purchased it....so I got the sellers number and bought it off of him.
When we spoke on the phone, he told me the machine was fully functional....and he really is a genuinely honest person...he wasn't trying to screw anybody...

By the way, the machine was heavily modified....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270124096021&fromMakeTrack=true

A fan was added, balanced ins/outs were added....somehow (it's all built into the side pannels. Crazy stuff huh?). And on the back there is an added switch that says "normal record" in the up position and "secure playback" in the down position. Any idea what the heck that is?

So to get down to business and answer your questions, I'm pretty sure I'm threading this thing right! I've got another 80-8 - it's just 3400 miles away in a storage unit. It worked brilliantly!

Yes, the capstan does spin when I lift the right tension arm.

So my question to you is where do I find these fuses? Do I just open the machine and search around for some blown fuses?? haha...or do you know where I can specifically look for them? I don't see how it could have blown...because the seller told me the machine worked....right before he sent it off to me....so how could it have been blown? or even a blown voltage regular transistor that you speak of?

Do you think that maybe a fuse physically fell due to being bumped around ?

I appreciate any tidbits or insights you can fill me in on!!!!


I FINALLY found a sealed reel of half inch tape from the early 1970s!!!!!! Can you believe my luck? And this tape doesn't have any backcoating so I don't have to worry about sticky shed syndrome.....it's scotch 203.....I was so excited to make some "authentic" 70s sounding recordings....a regular `70s model 5 mixer, a `70s teac 80-8, with `70s half inch tape! I was going to be in "vintage tone heaven" but not anymore! I look at the machine and it breaks my heart....I think I could cry.....

thanks again guys,
john
 
Hey, I remember you, John, from the TASCAM Forums... Weren't you the guy who wanted to splice some 1/4" "vintage" tape together, to make a 1/2" incher? :D Good to see you here! :)

In addition to the great above advice, I'd check internal [shipping] damage. If you feel the 80-8, in transit, in the seller's packing, couldn't have sustained repeated 5 - 6 foot drops then carefully check internal abnormalities such as PCB cracks etc....

BTW: another tape you should consider is Scotch 206 (right Tim ;) )?
 
John,

I seem to remember the fuse panel being mounted behind the unit, where the reel motors are so if you remove the rear top back panel, they should be behind there or on the top panel on top of the machine. One of those two spots should reveal them as that's where the power supply is...only place inside with enough space for the transformer and filter caps. ;)

Seeing as this machine was so heavily modded, it really opens up a broader field of possibilities as to what might be wrong with it because now we have to factor in what the previous owner might have buggered up in his efforts.

And, as sincere as some people might seem on ebay, you can never fully believe any one when it comes to the performance they can can put on when it comes to them pleading innocents and fitness of their wares unless they're backing it up with a no questions asked refund policy.

As Daniel stated, UPS can literally knock the piss out of the unit during shipment so it's possible too that the fuses where bumped right out of their holders. Nothing is off the table when dealing with this kind of scenario.

Cheers! :)
 
Jeff and Daniel have you going in the right direction… looking for fuses, damage, etc.

The switch you mentioned might be a mod to protect track 8 from accidentally being recorded over if 8 is being used for sync track. Later models had this feature. The terms “Normal Record” and “Secure playback” give a hint this may be what it’s for. Could be something else too.

What I would do if I were to give it a go is to disconnect everything like the noise reduction and any other accessories. Disconnect both the audio cables and power plugs to eliminate possible shorts or drains on the power supply. Since this has been moded the power supply may be maxed when everything is drawing power. Good way to blow fuses. And yes, they will blow during shutdown, so a guy could think everything is ok based on last check… but you don’t know that a fuse was blown until next power on. And even that next power on could blow a fuse due to dirty municipal power, higher average voltage, house electrical wiring issues, like hot and neutral being reversed from spec.

I noticed on one photo from the listing there is a remote jack with a plug in the back. An open or shorted circuit in one of those wires could torpedo the transport buttons on the front. Try unplugging that.

My basic approach would be to get the central unit working on its own first, and then add accessories one at a time. You might find a simple shorted wire or just one too many amps.

It would help to rent the movie Apollo 13 (1995) with Tom Hanks and half-watch it while your working.

:)
 
Old fuse filaments can just break from vibration or minor impact,...

as you'd expect to have from UPS shipment. The fuses should be located and tested to a certainty. It doesn't have to be 'blown', so don't scoff at the simple stuff. Fuses break. Ask me how I know that. :eek: ;)
...

The "Normal Record" switch would be just that, and the "Secure Playback" would be a record-disabled playback-only mode. Based on where this type of recorder was installed, they may have wanted secure playback. The other mods sound interesting. :eek: ;)

Good luck with your troubleshooting. It could be a fuse that's broken, not 'blown'. Or something else, (you never know). :eek: ;)

Aren't reel-to-reels fun? :eek: ;)
 
Beck said:
I noticed on one photo from the listing there is a remote jack with a plug in the back. An open or shorted circuit in one of those wires could torpedo the transport buttons on the front. Try unplugging that.
Click to expand...
Yeah!

Now that you mentioned that, it seemed weird in that the wire seemed to go right back inside the belly of the beast?

I also noted that the unit had a number 8 plate glued to the front panel by the transport buttons which might mean the previous owner has 8 of these machines all tied together perhaps for some other purpose such as logging data rather then audio? Perhaps without the central controller unit, (no doubt another piece McGyvered together), the local transport buttons might have been disabled?

The plot thickens! :D

Cheers! :)
 
cjacek - I'm the dude who toyed with the idea of splicing two 1/4" reels to make a a vintage half inch reel....but I finally found some `70s half inch stuff....really really old scotch 203....super cool..still sealed.

So I opened the machine, checked the fuses and they're all there and in good shape. Damn!

I'm not quite sure how to test a fuse, but they all look completely connected on the inside, like regular old fuses.

I've tried disconnecting the wires and cables, the DBX remote out, and nothing has worked. I've unplugged the teac 80-8 itself from the master power supply and plugged in straight into the wall and still, the same problem arises.

There is something wrong with the machine that is way over my head.

I was thinking about sending it here for repair....

http://www.njfactoryservice.com/index.cfm


I figure if I box it up PROPERLY as if the machines life depended on it (it does) then it would get there in good shape. I've ordered tape machines before and they've arrived in OK shape. I think there is something wrong with this machine, something that UPS didn't do.

I guess I would need to send the unit off anyway because if I'm not mistaken scotch 203 is 0db where this machine is setup and biased for 456 (+6dB). I'd need to get the machine rebiased and re calibrated anyway

Anyone know a teac repair guy closer to southern jersey? I wonder if they exist!


Guys thanks a bunch for all of the tips....I've tried them all I believe and the machine doesn't wanna work for me!




John
 
I realize that I should probably do a better test on the fuses.....I just need a multi meter right? I think there is one lying around....!
 
Yes NJ Factory Service is the place. If you are nearby, that's what I would do in your situation... all things considered.

You should have your machine calibrated for a commonly available standard class of tape and stick (no pun intended) with that. If you have tons of 203 then you're good, but if you only have a couple reels you probably won't find anymore. I've never seen 203 anywhere myself.

:)
 
The Ghost of FM said:
Yeah!

Now that you mentioned that, it seemed weird in that the wire seemed to go right back inside the belly of the beast?

I also noted that the unit had a number 8 plate glued to the front panel by the transport buttons which might mean the previous owner has 8 of these machines all tied together perhaps for some other purpose such as logging data rather then audio? Perhaps without the central controller unit, (no doubt another piece McGyvered together), the local transport buttons might have been disabled?

The plot thickens! :D

Cheers! :)
Click to expand...
Upon closer examination of the pictures from the ebay link, the remote jack for the transport had nothing plugged into it so that rules out my quoted post here in this post.

Sorry for the oversight.

I hope that place in NJ can get to the bottom of this for you, John.

Cheers! :)
 
To everyone in this thread - THANKS!

I search the forums and see a bunch of other dudes with similar problems, and you guys ALWAYS help them out with long in-depth posts.....
A bunch of cool dudes you guys are!


I'm going to call up NJ service center tomorrow and see what the deal is....Something tells me I'm going to be paying a million bucks to have a damn $299 machine fixed. ;)

Also, too, about the tape......
I really REALLY want to use this 203 with the teac....even though it probably is the only reel I'll ever find of it in 1/2" form. I mean it's like 3600 feet of tape so what is that? 45-50 minutes of music? More? I figure I can record over it too when I run out. In fact, I intend to re-record over it as many times as possilble until I have to finally do some crazy shit like splice two 1/4" reels of tape together. :o
Yeah it sounds pretty sick I know but this life is too short to worry about things like logic.
 
3600 feet is 48 minutes, give or take at 15 ips.

Check this stuff out. Scotch 206 in 1/2". No sticky-shed. 206 is what Scholz used on the first Boston album. 206 came out in 1969 and was the bee's knees in mastering tape through most of the '70s. It's now very hard to find in anything but 1/4".

Ask the seller if he will combine shipping for all four. I'm sure he will. This stuff and the 1-mil 407 is still some of the best stuff ever, IMO.

These are pancakes, but all you need is a standard 3-screw NAB reel like comes with AMPEX/Quantegy.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280098078997

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280098078888

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280098078680

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280098078455

Or check out AMPEX/Quantegy 406, which is also from the golden days of analog. You can't go wrong with either of these.

:)
 
Last edited:
Thanks for those links, beck

NEW SCOTCH 206 AUDIO TAPE 10.5 * 1/2 INCH TAPE PANCAKE IN ORIGINAL BOX

CONDITION : THIS TAPE IS NEW IN ORIGINAL BOX

Why does he say "new" scotch tape? Do you think this tape is from the `70s? And what is the reference level of the tape? Thanks a lot!

Edit - I also messaged the seller....I sure hope my check clears by tomorrow!
 
It's new-old-stock... could be from the '70s, but probably later. 206 was made by Scotch until they stopped manufacturing tape in the '90s.

It's a +3 tape just like AMPEX 406, so would be a good match for the 80-8 and later machines.

:)
 
70ssound said:
I realize that I should probably do a better test on the fuses.....I just need a multi meter right? I think there is one lying around....!
Click to expand...

Just replace all the fuses. I have had them ohm-out fine and they still were bad. Although the ohm meter showed the fuse shorted (good), the fact is that under power, the bad fuse acted like a current limiter. Odd at best, but I replace fuses if I have any doubt at all.
 
Thanks, MCI - I'm planning on running down to the 'Shack tonight and getting some fuses...

One of the 206 tapes has this on the side (I asked the seller for dates on the tape and this was the only code he found) : 84-9800-7721-2

Does this clue me in on any dates?

Regards,
John
 
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