it doesnt matter which end goes where as long as the cable is constructed properly. Those connectors have tiny separation between pins, be careful specially if yo are not good at soldering, check for shorted pins before connecting it. A bad short can fry your midiizer serial port.
Tascam Midiizer MTS-1000 Manual & Cables
- Thread starter trancedental
- Start date
it doesnt matter which end goes where as long as the cable is constructed properly. Those connectors have tiny separation between pins, be careful specially if yo are not good at soldering, check for shorted pins before connecting it. A bad short can fry your midiizer serial port.
i have on pdf mts 100 manual email me and i will send you one viking147@comcast.net
paul fitzgerald
New member
Hi, I have a Midizer MTS 1000 in working order as far as I know its not been used for years I also have the paper manual. Its for sale if you are still looking for one. I don't have the cables.
Thanks Paul Fitzgerald
paul.fitzgerald@hotmail.co.uk
Thanks Paul Fitzgerald
paul.fitzgerald@hotmail.co.uk
altruistica
Member
Just spent the day trying to get the 2 Midiizers I now own to work with the two MSR16.
One of the Midiizers was bought from the US and needs a transformer. This is the one that arrived in bad shape but now is almost there. It will function as a remote for either MSR16 and will stripe tapes and read code. The bit where it is falling down is on the 'CHASE' or lock function. If the SLAVE is forward of the MASTER by about 1-2 secs it just waits then starts playing and sometimes will achieve lock. If it is any further away it goes either into FF or REW desperately looking for the MASTER based on its own last played back message. I'm going to check the cables that came with it. They didn't have any locking screws so it would be nice to get hold of them too (every screw I've tried from various TDIF / VGA/ etc cables don't fit) just to rule this out. I've had them stripe at 30FPS so just to rule out some spurious EPROM shananigans I'm tring 25FPS but don't hold out much luck that that's the problem.
JP...
You mentioned programming EPROMS in this thread. Do you use something like this:
Buy Chip Programmers EPR-01, EPROM Programmer, For AM27C128, AM27C256, AT27C256R, AT27C512R, AT28C04, Seeit EPR-01 online from RS for next day delivery.
I can't yet get the other Midiizer to function even as a remote yet, never sync things. I bought this one along with an IF-1000 that I was told had never been used. It's in excellent condition apart from a weird couple of lines of pixels missing from the display, but when I started dismantling it to check the internal battery and to just remove the EPROMS from both boards, I noticed a screw missing. Obviously someone must have had at least a look inside before me.
Any thoughts guys?
Thanks
Al
One of the Midiizers was bought from the US and needs a transformer. This is the one that arrived in bad shape but now is almost there. It will function as a remote for either MSR16 and will stripe tapes and read code. The bit where it is falling down is on the 'CHASE' or lock function. If the SLAVE is forward of the MASTER by about 1-2 secs it just waits then starts playing and sometimes will achieve lock. If it is any further away it goes either into FF or REW desperately looking for the MASTER based on its own last played back message. I'm going to check the cables that came with it. They didn't have any locking screws so it would be nice to get hold of them too (every screw I've tried from various TDIF / VGA/ etc cables don't fit) just to rule this out. I've had them stripe at 30FPS so just to rule out some spurious EPROM shananigans I'm tring 25FPS but don't hold out much luck that that's the problem.
JP...
You mentioned programming EPROMS in this thread. Do you use something like this:
Buy Chip Programmers EPR-01, EPROM Programmer, For AM27C128, AM27C256, AT27C256R, AT27C512R, AT28C04, Seeit EPR-01 online from RS for next day delivery.
I can't yet get the other Midiizer to function even as a remote yet, never sync things. I bought this one along with an IF-1000 that I was told had never been used. It's in excellent condition apart from a weird couple of lines of pixels missing from the display, but when I started dismantling it to check the internal battery and to just remove the EPROMS from both boards, I noticed a screw missing. Obviously someone must have had at least a look inside before me.
Any thoughts guys?
Thanks
Al
jpmorris
Tape Wolf
At a pinch that would probably work, but I'd recommend you try and get one with a ZIF (zero insertion force) socket, since a regular socket will give you twice the opportunity to bend or shear off the pins when copying the original chip.
I managed to find an ART EPP2 at a reasonable price, and set up an old PC running DOS to run the control software.
EDIT: Actually you could probably buy a ZIF socket that can plug straight into the socket on the board of that programmer...
EDIT EDIT: You would also need an eraser. EPROMs are energized using a UV light source - the programmer works by shorting out the bits it doesn't want.
What it can't do is pump them back to the high energy state afterwards, you have to give them 30 minutes or so under a UV light to prepare them for programming.
altruistica
Member
Wow.....I think you lost me on the ZIP.......
Guess what though?
I looked at dismantling the sync cables (ACC2) to check them. The first one wouldn't come apart after removing the 2 small screws and nuts. I prised it apart using a small screwdriver and found the maker had used some hot glue I think to insulate between the pins. I removed this only to make sure that the connector would go together again and checked the pins one assembled. They seemed to correspond with everything I'd read. I checked the old Tascam Forums on the web as I know I'd had a problem back in 2009 when syncing two 238 machines with an ATS-500.
With all that checked I decided to change the MASTER / SLAVE configuration between the two MSR16. What was originally the MASTER machine, was now the SLAVE.
I turned everything on. Remember, I'd re-striped the tapes with 25FPS timecode as opposed to 30FPS. I couldn't believe it. The Midiizer was now behaving as it should. Before, when selecting the DISPLAY to read 'DIFF' (this is the difference between the timecodes of the two machines the Midiizer is reading represented as HR-MINS-SECS-FRAMES-SUBFRAMES), the reading would keep fluctuating even when the machines were stopped. Now it behaved as it should and so did the real readings of the MASTER and the SLAVE when rewinding or FF. The only 'anomaly' in the system at present seems to be that the timecode on the MASTER machine appears to have taken up more space on the MASTER machine (ie. from start to end of a reel on the MASTER, the tape length being 2400ft), seems to be around 29mins. The SLAVE machine has tape length of 2500ft, but the timecode occupies around 32mins. Even calculating in the extra tape length of the SLAVE, it appears the running speed of the MASTER machine is faster than the SLAVE. Because I'd been unsuccessful before with striping the tapes at 30FPS, and also because I'd let the MIDIIZER control the recording speed of the striping (in the manual it says it doesn't matter leaving the ACC2 cables attached when striping both machines), this time I had let the machines stripe the tape at their own independent speeds (which logic tells me should be the better way of doing things). On the previous stripe, with the ACC2 cables attached and controlling the machines, I had noticed the SLAVE machine (now the MASTER in my new configuration) had its tension rollers fractionally bobbing about as if its speed was being controlled.
Maybe this introduced an error amount during striping that the MIDIIZER couldn't solve during syncing?
Maybe the action of unplugging ACC2 cables on MASTER, SLAVE and MIDIIZER has dislodged any oxide build-up that was interfering with syncing?
As Cory mentioned in another thread, I hate it when things seem to fix themselves. I want to know why something didn't work and the reason that now something does.
I'm going to spend today investigating further.
Al
Guess what though?
I looked at dismantling the sync cables (ACC2) to check them. The first one wouldn't come apart after removing the 2 small screws and nuts. I prised it apart using a small screwdriver and found the maker had used some hot glue I think to insulate between the pins. I removed this only to make sure that the connector would go together again and checked the pins one assembled. They seemed to correspond with everything I'd read. I checked the old Tascam Forums on the web as I know I'd had a problem back in 2009 when syncing two 238 machines with an ATS-500.
With all that checked I decided to change the MASTER / SLAVE configuration between the two MSR16. What was originally the MASTER machine, was now the SLAVE.
I turned everything on. Remember, I'd re-striped the tapes with 25FPS timecode as opposed to 30FPS. I couldn't believe it. The Midiizer was now behaving as it should. Before, when selecting the DISPLAY to read 'DIFF' (this is the difference between the timecodes of the two machines the Midiizer is reading represented as HR-MINS-SECS-FRAMES-SUBFRAMES), the reading would keep fluctuating even when the machines were stopped. Now it behaved as it should and so did the real readings of the MASTER and the SLAVE when rewinding or FF. The only 'anomaly' in the system at present seems to be that the timecode on the MASTER machine appears to have taken up more space on the MASTER machine (ie. from start to end of a reel on the MASTER, the tape length being 2400ft), seems to be around 29mins. The SLAVE machine has tape length of 2500ft, but the timecode occupies around 32mins. Even calculating in the extra tape length of the SLAVE, it appears the running speed of the MASTER machine is faster than the SLAVE. Because I'd been unsuccessful before with striping the tapes at 30FPS, and also because I'd let the MIDIIZER control the recording speed of the striping (in the manual it says it doesn't matter leaving the ACC2 cables attached when striping both machines), this time I had let the machines stripe the tape at their own independent speeds (which logic tells me should be the better way of doing things). On the previous stripe, with the ACC2 cables attached and controlling the machines, I had noticed the SLAVE machine (now the MASTER in my new configuration) had its tension rollers fractionally bobbing about as if its speed was being controlled.
Maybe this introduced an error amount during striping that the MIDIIZER couldn't solve during syncing?
Maybe the action of unplugging ACC2 cables on MASTER, SLAVE and MIDIIZER has dislodged any oxide build-up that was interfering with syncing?
As Cory mentioned in another thread, I hate it when things seem to fix themselves. I want to know why something didn't work and the reason that now something does.
I'm going to spend today investigating further.
Al
altruistica
Member
Well, it unfixed itself.....
In the end I've re-soldered one of the ACC2 leads that came with the Midiizer.
For anyone that's ever used a Midiizer, is there a right way and a wrong way of connecting the ACC2 lead? What I mean is, does it matter which pin configuration (ie. pins 2 and 4 are reversed within the lead) of the two ends goes to the Midiizer and the tape machine? You sometimes see this with proprietary cables supplied by a manufacturer where the cable would have markings to signify 'MIDIIZER' and 'TAPE MACHINE'.
I ask this because in trouble-shooting the problem I had some strange findings. One such finding was that the Midiizer behaved differently when it was disconnected from anything else with only the ACC2 cable connected. When one end was connected, the unit booted up normally and resolved itself to read '00 00 00 00 00 MST' as it should. When the same cable was reversed (ie. the other end inserted into the Midiizer, again with the other end disconnected from anything) the Midiizer booted up into a malfunctioning mode where the display just kept counting up as if it wa reading timecode? The cable connections have been checked with a multi-meter numerous times and I'm confident that none of the pins are shorting out with one another. It could just be that the Midiizer's EPROMS are shot and need new EPROMS given the age of the machine and I suspect the limited usage the Midiizer has received over the years. BTW, do EPROMS decay or lose their memory faster when a unit has not been powered on much? Do they need a maintenance 'power on' say every three months to preserve their life and data?
As it is, when the Midiizer is connected to the two tape machines, it will of course only work if the true readings of the timecodes can be interpreted. I can't seem to work out which part of the puzzle is failing at the moment, but since one of the MSR16 has had a re-lapp, and I checked the AZIMUTH with the scope on re-fitting, also checked the tension with both spring guages and tentelometer, I think that machine is in as good a condition to meet syncing requirements as I'm able to achieve. I've since removed the heads from the other MSR in readiness to get them re-lapped. I did notice when I physically increased the reel tension on this machine (by attempting to turn turn the reels in opposite directions during STOP), the spurious counting of timecode on the Midiizer stopped. I checked the tape tensions using the tentelometer and adjusted them to be in spec, but the spurious counting continued and also was incorrect during FF and REW. This leads me to believe that in order for the Midiizer to do its job properly, the tensioning of the reels has to be spot on for the current conditions of the head. If the head was slightly trapezoidal in shape (which this one is) then the reel tension would have to be greater so a more permanent contact could be made with the timecode. Does this sound like a logical reading of the situation I have found?
Of course I don't want to increase back reel tension above spec because of a worn head....that way surely lies a downward spiral. I've decided to get the head re-lapped and set the tensions anew once it comes back. Then I might have a better idea whether these EPROMS are shot or whether I've been battling on across multiple fronts.
If anyone has 'been there, done it, got the T-shirt' and wants to chime in, you're welcome to.
Al
In the end I've re-soldered one of the ACC2 leads that came with the Midiizer.
For anyone that's ever used a Midiizer, is there a right way and a wrong way of connecting the ACC2 lead? What I mean is, does it matter which pin configuration (ie. pins 2 and 4 are reversed within the lead) of the two ends goes to the Midiizer and the tape machine? You sometimes see this with proprietary cables supplied by a manufacturer where the cable would have markings to signify 'MIDIIZER' and 'TAPE MACHINE'.
I ask this because in trouble-shooting the problem I had some strange findings. One such finding was that the Midiizer behaved differently when it was disconnected from anything else with only the ACC2 cable connected. When one end was connected, the unit booted up normally and resolved itself to read '00 00 00 00 00 MST' as it should. When the same cable was reversed (ie. the other end inserted into the Midiizer, again with the other end disconnected from anything) the Midiizer booted up into a malfunctioning mode where the display just kept counting up as if it wa reading timecode? The cable connections have been checked with a multi-meter numerous times and I'm confident that none of the pins are shorting out with one another. It could just be that the Midiizer's EPROMS are shot and need new EPROMS given the age of the machine and I suspect the limited usage the Midiizer has received over the years. BTW, do EPROMS decay or lose their memory faster when a unit has not been powered on much? Do they need a maintenance 'power on' say every three months to preserve their life and data?
As it is, when the Midiizer is connected to the two tape machines, it will of course only work if the true readings of the timecodes can be interpreted. I can't seem to work out which part of the puzzle is failing at the moment, but since one of the MSR16 has had a re-lapp, and I checked the AZIMUTH with the scope on re-fitting, also checked the tension with both spring guages and tentelometer, I think that machine is in as good a condition to meet syncing requirements as I'm able to achieve. I've since removed the heads from the other MSR in readiness to get them re-lapped. I did notice when I physically increased the reel tension on this machine (by attempting to turn turn the reels in opposite directions during STOP), the spurious counting of timecode on the Midiizer stopped. I checked the tape tensions using the tentelometer and adjusted them to be in spec, but the spurious counting continued and also was incorrect during FF and REW. This leads me to believe that in order for the Midiizer to do its job properly, the tensioning of the reels has to be spot on for the current conditions of the head. If the head was slightly trapezoidal in shape (which this one is) then the reel tension would have to be greater so a more permanent contact could be made with the timecode. Does this sound like a logical reading of the situation I have found?
Of course I don't want to increase back reel tension above spec because of a worn head....that way surely lies a downward spiral. I've decided to get the head re-lapped and set the tensions anew once it comes back. Then I might have a better idea whether these EPROMS are shot or whether I've been battling on across multiple fronts.
If anyone has 'been there, done it, got the T-shirt' and wants to chime in, you're welcome to.
Al
altruistica
Member
I finally bit the bullet and took the EPROMS out of my now 'fully working MIDIIZER' and put them in the one that isn't fully working.
The FW ('fully working') machine has EPROMS that are Japanese and marked with M for the main board and C for the Control board. The EPROMS are :
C1.22, 'JAPAN 8912 S0012SS5 PGM, 12.5V, HN27512G-25
and
M1.21 'JAPAN 8906 00012770, PGM 12.5V, HN27C256G-20
When I put these in the NW (non-working) MIDIIZER, the machine still chased time-code but still didn't come up with the message 'ACCESSORY 2 Port online' during the power on stage. It subsequently did not have any of the 'remote' functions' enabled (such as track-arming, transport functions etc) to control serial ACC2 machines, but it did operate the MS-16 as a parallel slave via the IF-1000 which was curious?
The EPROMS which were removed from the NW Midiizer are:
C2.00 PGM12.5V HN27512G25
M2.00 27C256-20JL 'ALEE 9127'
What was interesting in replacing the version 2 software with the older 1.21 / 1.22 EPROMS in the NW machine, was that the software pages in the MTC page (OTHERS / MIDI TC) was different. In Version 2.00 EPROMS the choice 'OFF / ON' was adjusted using the scroll wheel (this was discovered by me just pressing any button to try to change the setting as it is not documented anywhere????). In the original manual of which I have, it gives the MENU choice of 'Press 1 for ON, 2 for OFF', and is the same in 1.21 / 1.22. Now either the software was re-written and updated in a later addendum or my Version 2 software EPROMS have a mind of their own.
Either way, I'm beginning to see this as a lost cause as I can't imagine there's anybody about these days that could sort out the kind of programming needed if the EPROMS have gone bad, or even if the logic circuit diagrams still exist somewhere for someone to figure out how to get the thing working again? Anybody?
Maybe this machine is going to have to act as a parts machine for the other Midiizer which is a real shame because as a remote for an MSR16, the MIDIIZER is the dog's bollocks.
A very despondent Al.
The FW ('fully working') machine has EPROMS that are Japanese and marked with M for the main board and C for the Control board. The EPROMS are :
C1.22, 'JAPAN 8912 S0012SS5 PGM, 12.5V, HN27512G-25
and
M1.21 'JAPAN 8906 00012770, PGM 12.5V, HN27C256G-20
When I put these in the NW (non-working) MIDIIZER, the machine still chased time-code but still didn't come up with the message 'ACCESSORY 2 Port online' during the power on stage. It subsequently did not have any of the 'remote' functions' enabled (such as track-arming, transport functions etc) to control serial ACC2 machines, but it did operate the MS-16 as a parallel slave via the IF-1000 which was curious?
The EPROMS which were removed from the NW Midiizer are:
C2.00 PGM12.5V HN27512G25
M2.00 27C256-20JL 'ALEE 9127'
What was interesting in replacing the version 2 software with the older 1.21 / 1.22 EPROMS in the NW machine, was that the software pages in the MTC page (OTHERS / MIDI TC) was different. In Version 2.00 EPROMS the choice 'OFF / ON' was adjusted using the scroll wheel (this was discovered by me just pressing any button to try to change the setting as it is not documented anywhere????). In the original manual of which I have, it gives the MENU choice of 'Press 1 for ON, 2 for OFF', and is the same in 1.21 / 1.22. Now either the software was re-written and updated in a later addendum or my Version 2 software EPROMS have a mind of their own.
Either way, I'm beginning to see this as a lost cause as I can't imagine there's anybody about these days that could sort out the kind of programming needed if the EPROMS have gone bad, or even if the logic circuit diagrams still exist somewhere for someone to figure out how to get the thing working again? Anybody?
Maybe this machine is going to have to act as a parts machine for the other Midiizer which is a real shame because as a remote for an MSR16, the MIDIIZER is the dog's bollocks.
A very despondent Al.
altruistica
Member
Just re-reading my last post, would I be right in thinking that Tascam had to provide new EPROMS in the NW (non-working) machine ie. VERSION 2.00 EPROMS to probably solve the problem of chip discontinuation? I've noticed when comparing the two units, that although they look similar (and are titled with the same PART NUMBER) there are differences. A MIDDIZER contains two boards. When comparing all the chips, generic differences (ie. different manufacturers) can be found in various chips. Is this why they would have had to 'update' the EPROM programming? If the answer to this is 'YES', then presumably if my V2.00 EPROMS have gone wayward, then copying the 1.21 EPROMS to new EPROMS would be of no use, since they wouldn't have the necessary programming to cope with the differences between generic chips?
What's frustrating in all of this, is that the MIDIIZER is practically new and has hardly been used.
Al
What's frustrating in all of this, is that the MIDIIZER is practically new and has hardly been used.
Al
trancedental
New member
Tascam in Montebello California did have the EPROM's a while back but you need to phone them & ask them to send to a USA address they won't send overseas. I've tried England & Germany Tascam HQ's without any response.
I need a pair of EPROM's for my non working Midiizer as well, last time I tried to get them from the USA they got lost in the post somewhere in the Atlantic Ocean!
BTW my working machine also has the 1.2 EPROM's installed & the faulty one has the 2.00 versions, although only one EPROM is faulty in the NW midiizer.
I need a pair of EPROM's for my non working Midiizer as well, last time I tried to get them from the USA they got lost in the post somewhere in the Atlantic Ocean!
BTW my working machine also has the 1.2 EPROM's installed & the faulty one has the 2.00 versions, although only one EPROM is faulty in the NW midiizer.
altruistica
Member
Hey Transcendental,
I've just re-read the whole of this thread to see where we're at.
I wonder if between us we could sort this out.
How did you get your Midiizer to show the EPROM versions in the display? I've checked the manual from beginning to end and can't find any mention of it?
When I substituted the W (working) machine's EPROMS into the NW machine, I swapped both EPROMS (C1.22 and M1.21). Although it made a little difference (the menu difference mentioned above) it still didn't make the remote functions of the MSR16 work.
It sounds like you didn't just replace EPROMS in your test, but swapped the whole board, is that right?
If that's the case, then the EPROMS could still be to blame as they are probably specific to the production run of unit (ie. if the chips on either board became discontinued and a replacement was needed, then the EPROM programming may have had to be altered?
Al
I've just re-read the whole of this thread to see where we're at.
I wonder if between us we could sort this out.
How did you get your Midiizer to show the EPROM versions in the display? I've checked the manual from beginning to end and can't find any mention of it?
When I substituted the W (working) machine's EPROMS into the NW machine, I swapped both EPROMS (C1.22 and M1.21). Although it made a little difference (the menu difference mentioned above) it still didn't make the remote functions of the MSR16 work.
It sounds like you didn't just replace EPROMS in your test, but swapped the whole board, is that right?
If that's the case, then the EPROMS could still be to blame as they are probably specific to the production run of unit (ie. if the chips on either board became discontinued and a replacement was needed, then the EPROM programming may have had to be altered?
Al
altruistica
Member
I'm also beginning to wonder if it's time to copy the EPROMS from the working Midiizer to new EPROMS before it's too late? That is, whether the Midiizer has a finite life given the EPROM situation?
Al
Al
trancedental
New member
Your LCD display should show two lines of text, one is for the SMPTE / MTC sync operation, the other is the remote control functions for the recorder, play, return, fast forward, rewind, record ect. One my faulty unit one row of digits is absent when I boot up the midiizer.
I swapped the boards around to check but the problem was one of the EPROMS in the faulty machine, as it works with the working machine's EPROM swapped over. seem to remember it being the remote control & the sync was actually working.
EDIT: Here's what I wrote a few years back.......
Theres 2 EPROM memory chips in the MTS 1000, I Believe one does the time code & one does the transport, you can check if they are working OK by
following the following instructions
"After the machine is power up, press OTHER, then press UTILITY, then hold down SHIFT and OTHER together and the software version will appear on the screen."
The screen should show both "C" & "M" followed by software versions for each 2.01 / 1.60 ect. if your machine says 0.00 then that EPROM is faulty & has lost it's program.
That's the issue I had with my faulty midiizer!
You can see the utility mode in the LCD screen in my post number 22 earlier in the thread, there's a picture explaining it all. My faulty machine had 0.00 on the screen.
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