Abominable ID
New member
I'm gonna just drop a massive message with a lot of dumb newbie questions right now, but first I would like to thank everyone for all of the extremely valuable information on this forum. I have learned so much, that I know I would NEVER have been able to embark on the tape journey without it!
I have recently acquired a 38 which has a host of problems. It seems to PLAY/REW/FF and all that, but how do I know if either of my REEL motors is not up to par? Is there a test?
Also, all of the VU meter lights are out. None of my fuses are blown. IS there a fuse for all the lights, and is it possible that they are all blown? Are there any replacement bulbs available today? (Like in the threads I've read from 10yrs ago-Including LED mods...)
Next, when I have the deck sitting flat on its feet, it starts to make this weird mechanical sound. I panic and return it to its functional position of tilted back about 20 degrees or so...anyone know what that could be?
I am not using the noise reduction unit with the 38, don't even know what that sounds like, probably never will. Should I be recording differently (like really hot), or change my machines record levels on the channels cards? ( I'm using a Tascam m-216 board)
And my final grandaddy question is: What is the function/purpose of the REPRO/SYNC head? If I can play and record both on SYNC, what is the purpose of REPRO? I discovered that tracks 3 and 6 recorded with SYNC, are not being played back by REPRO. So I thought, "oh, well I will just use SYNC." My 38 had other plans. I was very bummed to discover that now track 7 will not play back through SYNC, and even more tracks will not play back through REPRO. I'm very frustrated because I just got the whole system set up and was laying tracks and now this. Am I to remove all the channels cards (which I have no idea how to do), find the relays, and spray De-Oxit in them and attempt to clean them and make sure my cards are seated properly? Also, I've read about "bad soldier joints on the 30's series"...does anyone know where those are? Is there a procedure for this sort of problem? I desperately want to get back to tracking and taking this machine to a pro is not an option.
Everything seemed to be okay at first, but the more I've used the machine the track problems began to manifest. I am extremely grateful for any suggestions or leads anyone might have. Cheers!
-Ash
I have recently acquired a 38 which has a host of problems. It seems to PLAY/REW/FF and all that, but how do I know if either of my REEL motors is not up to par? Is there a test?
Also, all of the VU meter lights are out. None of my fuses are blown. IS there a fuse for all the lights, and is it possible that they are all blown? Are there any replacement bulbs available today? (Like in the threads I've read from 10yrs ago-Including LED mods...)
Next, when I have the deck sitting flat on its feet, it starts to make this weird mechanical sound. I panic and return it to its functional position of tilted back about 20 degrees or so...anyone know what that could be?
I am not using the noise reduction unit with the 38, don't even know what that sounds like, probably never will. Should I be recording differently (like really hot), or change my machines record levels on the channels cards? ( I'm using a Tascam m-216 board)
And my final grandaddy question is: What is the function/purpose of the REPRO/SYNC head? If I can play and record both on SYNC, what is the purpose of REPRO? I discovered that tracks 3 and 6 recorded with SYNC, are not being played back by REPRO. So I thought, "oh, well I will just use SYNC." My 38 had other plans. I was very bummed to discover that now track 7 will not play back through SYNC, and even more tracks will not play back through REPRO. I'm very frustrated because I just got the whole system set up and was laying tracks and now this. Am I to remove all the channels cards (which I have no idea how to do), find the relays, and spray De-Oxit in them and attempt to clean them and make sure my cards are seated properly? Also, I've read about "bad soldier joints on the 30's series"...does anyone know where those are? Is there a procedure for this sort of problem? I desperately want to get back to tracking and taking this machine to a pro is not an option.
Everything seemed to be okay at first, but the more I've used the machine the track problems began to manifest. I am extremely grateful for any suggestions or leads anyone might have. Cheers!
-Ash