Studio Boxes, what do you do
- Thread starter wimat
- Start date
knightfly
GrouchyOldFartOnBatteries
Depends on your particular setup - the best way is to plan for cabling before construction starts - floating floors are good places for cable trays - in residential construction, sometimes under the house and back up works well (if you're rural and ever have rodent problems from fields, etc, use conduit that's large enough for any "un-removable" computer cable ends, and stuff both ends full of fiberglas insulation after all cables are in.)
If you go in-wall, offset boxes by two stud cavities (leave a "virgin" cavity between the two that have a box in them) and caulk EVERYTHING inside the boxes, around them, total seal is necessary. Even well-sealed boxes, if they're back-to-back, will cost you anywhere from 6-15 dB of isolation. Boxes that are recessed into the wall (and properly sealed), without another box nearby, will only cost you maybe 2-3 dB due to replacing wall insulation with a box full of air.
Always put at least 2-4 more circuits of each type in than you think you'll need - sometimes, even DOUBLE isn't excessive in the long run. Once things are in place, you do NOT want to open this up again unless something breaks.
Hope that helped... Steve
If you go in-wall, offset boxes by two stud cavities (leave a "virgin" cavity between the two that have a box in them) and caulk EVERYTHING inside the boxes, around them, total seal is necessary. Even well-sealed boxes, if they're back-to-back, will cost you anywhere from 6-15 dB of isolation. Boxes that are recessed into the wall (and properly sealed), without another box nearby, will only cost you maybe 2-3 dB due to replacing wall insulation with a box full of air.
Always put at least 2-4 more circuits of each type in than you think you'll need - sometimes, even DOUBLE isn't excessive in the long run. Once things are in place, you do NOT want to open this up again unless something breaks.
Hope that helped... Steve