snares?

Barometer

Barometer

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Hey all, this is probably a stupid question. But I'm having a hard time getting my snares to stay as tight as I want and still allow me to switch to no snare. In other words, when I get it to the tightness that I want and then turn off the snare, it still lightly touches the bottom head and has a really bad sound. Is there anything I can do about this? My new snare is so much better and has adjustments for both sides of the snare (which I've never had before) so maybe I just don't know what to do. Thanks :D
 
I have the same problem. It's like the clutch needs to travel further than it does so the wires can drop further. What would be ideal is if the clutch didn't loosen the wires, only lowered them, so they would only have to drop, say, a quarter of an inch and be completely clear of the resonant head.
 
Yeah I was thinking the same thing. It's like the flat pieces that hold the snares tight to the head are the only things getting in the way and if they were just a bit lower I'd be OK. Well maybe someone knows something that we don't :D
 
Well, necessity is the mother of invention...and I do use 3D CAD software on a regular basis and have access to a CNC mill. Hmm....
 
Really? I'm a 3D artist and could probably lend a hand if it was truly something that could be done. double hmmmm.......
 
I'm gonna look at my snares when I get home and try to get a better idea of how to approach this. It's lame that I have a $1,000 snare and the clutch is a POS.
 
this may be a stupid question/answer but...

do you have a snare bed? are the snare wires in the right place on the bed (hey, it happens)?

where are the wires touching? are they still on the bearing edge when released at the strainer or butt end? if the wires aren't centered when you connect them to the strainer and the butt you will have this problem.

sounds like you either need to adjust/center the wires, get a strainer with more vertical movement or get new wires.

peace~
 
you probalby got a cheap strainer. Get a nickelworks strainer. You'll find these on some of the high end DW snares (DW puts their name on the strainers thought) and OCDP snares.
 
So do i...mine is probably cooler.
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That's great and all, did you get to pick yours out at the OCDP factory? Anyway, the only reason I mentioned it was because your recommendation was to get a type of strainer that comes on OCDP snares. I've got an OCDP snare.
 
well, i didn't actually go to the "factory" since i live in Ohio. But i waited some time (somethin like 5 months) after i placed my order.

6x14 20ply type 2 white sparkle wrap w/ 4 2 1/2" vents and offset lugs. THE LOUDEST DRUM I'VE EVER OWNED! Was almost $1000!
 
fenix said:
well, i didn't actually go to the "factory" since i live in Ohio. But i waited some time (somethin like 5 months) after i placed my order.

6x14 20ply type 2 white sparkle wrap w/ 4 2 1/2" vents and offset lugs. THE LOUDEST DRUM I'VE EVER OWNED! Was almost $1000!
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get rid of it and get ahold of ron dunnett. www.dunnett.com. you won't have a 20 ply novelty item with giant holes in it, the snares will work fine (he uses nickelworks too btw), it will smoke the OCDP drum and it won't cost $1000.00. check them out, seriously.
 
i went to the site. i'm not convinced. the ocdp is the drum that is right for me because of it's dry sound and the fast music i do.
 
well, i didn't actually go to the "factory" since i live in Ohio.
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That's no excuse.;) I live in Louisiana and I went to the "factory" - it kinda is a factory, er...more like a wharehouse with a few machines in it. Anyway, I did OCDP's website and got paid in snare.

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you won't have a 20 ply novelty item with giant holes in it
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How is a snare that works a novelty?
 
Whoa...small fuckin world. I live in Pineville (unfortunately). This area has got to be one of the most culturally inept places in the country. When did you live here?
 
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