Shure SM57 - needs repair $25
- Thread starter mjbphotos
- Start date
Phantom Piggy
Bacon
Broke on its first gig? Damn that sucks
Steenamaroo
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Where were you when I needed a cheap 57 capsule!!!
mjbphotos
Moderator
Here's a pic of the bottom threaded section to the body - looks like the yellow wire has pulled loose here, as well.
Steen thinks this is a fake Shure because he doesn't recognize the top section with red wires?
I suck at soldering unless I've got lots of room to do it, and a big blob of solder is ok! (even then, I suck!)
Frankly, at this point, I'd just as soon get rid of it (if I can get a little money), as I don't need it.
Steen thinks this is a fake Shure because he doesn't recognize the top section with red wires?
I suck at soldering unless I've got lots of room to do it, and a big blob of solder is ok! (even then, I suck!)
Frankly, at this point, I'd just as soon get rid of it (if I can get a little money), as I don't need it.
Steenamaroo
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Steenamaroo
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Idk what happened....I dropped it and now look.
mjbphotos
Moderator
Ok, I just watched that video, and the differences shown indicate what I have is not a counterfeit! The top rotates freely - but not loosely. The logo and markings, and the 'c' inside the connector end above the metal thing are there. The vinyl bag (I still have it, but zipper is broken, is the dull leather - not shiny. The grill is not the extra-protruding counterfeit style.
Not sure how the yellow wire came loose, maybe I pulled it accidentally when taking it apart last time.
Not sure how the yellow wire came loose, maybe I pulled it accidentally when taking it apart last time.
Steenamaroo
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That hollow chamber where you have red wires is meant to be occupied by the bulky metal cartridge.
Have a look inside and see where those read wires go.
I should have pointed out, the ones in my pic are genuine.
Have a look inside and see where those read wires go.
I should have pointed out, the ones in my pic are genuine.
Steenamaroo
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Well, it's a little tricky but the sinning top comes off. There's a circlip in there that holds it in place.
You shouldn't need to remove that to prove authenticity though.
If you were to take a good 57 and split it by unscrewing it in the middle, you'd see the little board where the yellow and green wires solder on.
If you removed the wires and the little nut, the board will lift off.
That'll reveal a very short amount of threaded bar and the back of the solid metal capsule assembly.
In the fakes I've seen the threaded bar is much longer and the majority of the head chamber is hollow.
I don't have one open to check, but I'm pretty sure the threaded bar shouldn't even separate from the metal capsule.
