Room treatment need sugession

F

fixyjohn

New member
Dear guys

This seems raw but hope you understand me

This is my room 10 ft length, 10 ft breadth and 12 ft height brick wall , cemented and painted


room treatment at my place costs very high labour and techno (Iindia) and i have a good carpenter who knows nothing about the studio the thing i have to do is i have to give him instruction for fixing the wooden sheet.

A two woodden sheet (8 mm thick, 6 ft hight , 4 ft length )supported by a wooden block inside and packed inside with coir or foam
pasting one side with carpet and fixing / mounting the other side on the wall . by this all the four sides of the wall .and i planned to divide the room in to 2 for vocal booth .

(sorry for my raw English and hope u understand) will it work ???

advance thanks for your guidelines..!

fj
 
No. You want to use Rockwool or sound insulation fiberboard.

You don't really need the wood backing on the back either, you could use a wood frame with cloth on both sides or even just cloth on the front and no backing at all. You just need the frame to support the soundboard and the cloth to keep the fibers from getting all over the place.
 
c7sus said:
No. You want to use Rockwool or sound insulation fiberboard.

You don't really need the wood backing on the back either, you could use a wood frame with cloth on both sides or even just cloth on the front and no backing at all. You just need the frame to support the soundboard and the cloth to keep the fibers from getting all over the place.
Click to expand...


thanks a lot....... tthis frame to support i can understand but "and the cloth to keep the fibers from getting all over the place." this little bit confusing ....



fixing the frame on the wall then mounting the fiber board . am i right? have i past / fix any cloth on the fiber board?? cloth means what type??


once again thanks for your reply
 
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Any kind of cloth will do. The cloth is just there to keep the fibers of the insulation from shedding into your room. Fire-resistant cloth is preferable if you can find it and afford it, because you are essentially covering a huge area of the walls with it. But I used hemp cloth for mine and it works just fine.

Rockwool is made from mineral fibers that are baked at high temperature. The result is a fireproof insulation that has good sound absorbtion qualities.

Fiberglass soundboard is made from spun glass. It is flame-resistant to a point but ultimately flammable due to the resins that hold the fibers together.

Both products can shed small fibers that you don't want to be breathing constantly, or have against your skin because they will cause irritation.

Here are a couple links to some explanations of the basics of sound absorbers and some relatively simple designs for a variety of traps.

Acoustic Treatment and Design for Recording Studios and Listening Rooms

http://ethanwiner.com/BTPlans.gif
 
2 things: 1) your room is almost a cube, not good for acoustics without massive sound treament - not just flat covering of the walls but all corners - wall-to-wall, wall-to-ceiling and wall-to-floor. 2) Dividing the room into 2 for a 'vocal booth' is not going to improve the sound.
 
c7sus said:
Any kind of cloth will do. The cloth is just there to keep the fibers of the insulation from shedding into your room. Fire-resistant cloth is preferable if you can find it and afford it, because you are essentially covering a huge area of the walls with it. But I used hemp cloth for mine and it works just fine.

Rockwool is made from mineral fibers that are baked at high temperature. The result is a fireproof insulation that has good sound absorbtion qualities.

Fiberglass soundboard is made from spun glass. It is flame-resistant to a point but ultimately flammable due to the resins that hold the fibers together.

Both products can shed small fibers that you don't want to be breathing constantly, or have against your skin because they will cause irritation.

Here are a couple links to some explanations of the basics of sound absorbers and some relatively simple designs for a variety of traps.

Acoustic Treatment and Design for Recording Studios and Listening Rooms

http://ethanwiner.com/BTPlans.gif
Click to expand...

thanks a lot c7sus

if i am right ..first fixing the wooden frame in the wall and then the wooden board the open side covered with diffuse clothe - all the board nailed air tight. and adding bass traps at the corners.

shall i have to put anything between the wall and the wooden board because that space is empty .....?
shall i use plywood instead of cloth..?

fj
 
fixyjohn said:
thanks a lot c7sus

if i am right ..first fixing the wooden frame in the wall and then the wooden board the open side covered with diffuse clothe - all the board nailed air tight. and adding bass traps at the corners.

shall i have to put anything between the wall and the wooden board because that space is empty .....?
shall i use plywood instead of cloth..?

fj
Click to expand...

I'm not sure. I've seen both types of designs. The traps I built for my room don't have an air gap behind the fiberglass, but the traps are huge (42" wide x 90" tall x 4" deep) and I used 1/4" plywood on the backs and stuffed the entire cavity with Knauf soundboard. The backs of my traps are V-shaped at a 6-degree angle to minimize the parallel surfaces in the room. The design I used was developed off another website from another designer, John Sayers.

The text seems to indicate that having soundboard directly against the wall or plywood backing of the trap decreases the efficiency of the trap. Part of what makes them work is the vibration of the plywood itself which transfers energy into the insulation where the sound vibrations are converted to heat and absorbed by the panel.

Similar to an acoustic suspension loudspeaker, panel absorbers like this one are sealed air-tight, and the fiberglass converts the acoustic energy into heat. Note how the fiberglass is spaced away from the back panel, which is more effective than simply attaching it directly against the rear surface. The closer the fiberglass is to the plywood panel, the more effectively it damps the panel's vibration. But it is important that the fiberglass not touch the panel because that would restrict its movement. For a panel trap to absorb as efficiently as possible, the panel must be free to vibrate with no restriction other than the damping action of the nearby fiberglass.
 
Dear c7

thanks a lot ......

i understand the following ...


1. at the corners bass traps v type made by a solid block wood + Fire-resistant cloth

2. in walls - the wood frame comes first , then the board (i am not sure in my area this thing Fiberglass soundboard is available or not) covered with fire resistant cloth / sound absorbent.

3. in the floor Floor mat . a sound absorbant floor mat is available in my area

4. and in the top wooden board covered with absorbent cloth / fire resistant cloth

and i am planning to reduce the room size to 10 ft length, 8 ft breath and hight 8 ft - dived in to two for mixing and booth .

can any one suggest .....for further tips.


Guys sincerely thanks a lot for your support....

fj
 
You don't need wood backing on the corner bass traps, in fact not having backing will increase the amount of bass they will absorb.

I think dividing the room will cause more problems than it solves, as mjbphotos pointed out.
 
if so...... then i have to sit the vocalist / guitarist near to me ie near the mixing tabe (the table bears pc monitor and personaus left / rt moniotrs and focusrite sound card) and record it directly to the DAW

Then it will be a single room of some 10 ft Length x 10 ft Breadth x 8 ft height .am i ?

fj
 
My personal preference would be to keep the room height at close to 12-feet and hang treatments off the ceiling.

One of the mods should move this thread to the studio forum. It will get more views from guys that have a lot more experience in designing room treatments.
 
fixyjohn said:
Dear guys

This seems raw but hope you understand me

This is my room 10 ft length, 10 ft breadth and 12 ft height brick wall , cemented and painted


room treatment at my place costs very high labour and techno (Iindia) and i have a good carpenter who knows nothing about the studio the thing i have to do is i have to give him instruction for fixing the wooden sheet.

A two woodden sheet (8 mm thick, 6 ft hight , 4 ft length )supported by a wooden block inside and packed inside with coir or foam
pasting one side with carpet and fixing / mounting the other side on the wall . by this all the four sides of the wall .and i planned to divide the room in to 2 for vocal booth .

(sorry for my raw English and hope u understand) will it work ???

advance thanks for your guidelines..!

fj
Click to expand...

A note to ALL:

Caution is recommended in following plans for a rigid plywood panel trap as in the BBC docs... these have been proven to work, however at a high 'Q' (Q = 4 to 10). This is not really desirable in a sound studio. The best option for pressure trapping is a limp mass resonator such as a limp membrane trap. As such the resulting 'Q' is brought down to around 0.7 - a more 'musical' bandwidth.

fixyjohn,

As already mentioned, your room is a concrete cube. This WILL require the use of deep trapping. 12 to 24 inches deep on the rear wall. I'm serious. And you will need to implement some membrane traps as well. I would recommend making the ceiling a full trap, 48 inches deep. That will result in a visible 'ceiling' of treatment that is 8 feet high.

You should build simple skeletal frames for the broadband trapping so that they are open on the sides to one another.. cover all the walls with these traps - you really need it. The membrane traps, however must be sealed, therefore build them from plywood or MDF and seal them well otherwise they will not function as designed. The devil is in the details and this is not all of them. ;)

Cheers,
John
 
thanks a lot jhb and c7s.,

dear guys...,

i searched for rook wood boad and fiber board i find difficult to find in my area & the dealers are supply in lot only.

a wooden board of 19mm or 12 mm thickness and wooden blocks are readily available in my place and also plywood boards are also available.

(My main object is to arrest the natural reverb. standing waves, effective diffusion my audio work is at night only. so there is no worry for external noise at present )

can any one guide me with this ...



1 will the wooden board work. (19 mm) ?
2 shall i add 2 boards (19 mm x 2) for thickness ?
3 or shall i go for plywood ?
4. is there anything i have to wrap around the wooden board.? shall i hang a heavy cloth / wool carpet?
5. on the floor., - wood board and
6 at the ceiling wooden pannel / board ?

bro it seems annoying but these are the available materials for at present


advance thanks for yr guidelines .....


fj
 
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jhbrandt said:
A note to ALL:




As already mentioned, your room is a concrete cube. This WILL require the use of deep trapping. 12 to 24 inches deep on the rear wall. I'm serious. And you will need to implement some membrane traps as well. I would recommend making the ceiling a full trap, 48 inches deep. That will result in a visible 'ceiling' of treatment that is 8 feet high.
Click to expand...


jhb thaks for yr suggestions


deep traping means wooden block of 12 to 24 inches ?

at the ceiling 48 inches deep means i have to place / hang some 48 inches deep wooden block ?
 
Dear mjb..,,

thanks for ur guidelines i understand the following and am i right with this .....


1 will the wooden board work. (19 mm) ? - i have to choose fiber glass sound board / roockwool board i will sear it once again
2 shall i add 2 boards (19 mm x 2) for thickness ?
3. is there anything i have to wrap around the wooden board.? shall i hang a heavy cloth / wool carpet?
4. on the floor., - wood board / plywood - i read in articles to avoid carpet
5 at the ceiling - the same fiber glass sound board / rock wool board
all neatly arranged air tight


fj
 
hopefully i have find this in my area ......for rock wool and fiber glass board

pls refer the images


your advice please ....afiber glass image.jpgarock wool5.jpg
 
c7sus said:
No. You want to use Rockwool or sound insulation fiberboard.

You don't really need the wood backing on the back either, you could use a wood frame with cloth on both sides or even just cloth on the front and no backing at all. You just need the frame to support the soundboard and the cloth to keep the fibers from getting all over the place.
Click to expand...

Hai i searched market today. whole day and find the dealer in my place for glass wool, rock wool and acoustic Eco mat . And the guy told me the glass wool , rock wool can be fixed directly (nailed) on the wall or a wooden frame - no backing is required. but you told to wrap it with cloth .
if my assumption is right it will be like pillow in final ....and placing on the wall / nailing etc....

your advice please...!

Also guide me for the floor and roof.

fj
 
Driving a nail through the rockwool - don't bang it in tight, the rockwool needs to be full thickness. With only the head of the nail to keep it in place, it is likely to rip or tear over time/. The cloth covering will keep fibers in.
 
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