this i cannot argue with.It's a bass. It works. It cost $150.
It's a bass. It works. It cost $150. No complaints.
meh, I've got a SX SPJ-62. I'm not impressed. I much much much prefer my mexi-made p-bass.
Your experience is the inverse of mine.
I recently got (and reviewed) the SPJ-62 BK
Don't get me wrong, let's put it this way, i'm happy considering how much I paid for it. And it's cheap enough that really I never thought it was worth the time/effort to deal with shipping it back.Yes, that's really an isolated case and if you're not happy, you should send it back to Rondo - don't settle.
wow, really? yeah, when i got mine all the pots were super scratchy, and it just doesn't play as well as my MIM P-bass. I'm not a real bassist, just use it to lay down simple stuff when i can't find a real bassist to play for me, so unfortunately i can't really quantify it better than that.Simply the best mass-produced instrument I've seen/played.
Do you have any idea what the initials stand for (SPJ, PJB, SJB, SJMB, etc.)?
After I cut a new nut for it (I had just gotten the tools from Stew Mac, and was slotting anything that couldn't flee) I discovered it intonated frighteningly well, barely off by a cent or two anywhere.
Both the SPJ and the SPB (or whatever the P bass is), as well as pretty much anything else I've gotten my hands on has benefitted gretly from attention to the nut slots. Factory nut slots are left not deep enough, to prevent fret rattle and fret-out. Carefull work with a set of fret files can sometimes get you near an eighth-step closer to in tune at the first fret, which is the biggest offender. I have a Kubiki Key Factor 5 that was next to unplayable on the B string due to the factory-cut nut.