Roguetitan
New member
RogueTitans Bass Nut Thread
Well I finally bought a camera and since I was doing a nut job on one of my bass guitars
I thought I would do a step by step with pictures.
I know some of you may do it differently but this is the way I do it so if you have a comment about how I am doing it all wrong (and you know who you are) DON’T, instead start your own damn picture thread and show us how its done instead of coming up in my thread and fucking it up for everyone else who may want to learn how to work a nut.
Ok now that is said... first you will need the essential and probably one of the most important tools for the job(other than the files) is a pencil but not just any pencil you will need to make a half pencil
I don’t use the round variety because you can’t make a very accurate half pencil out of a round one. Instead, use a carpenters pencil
Figure 1
Use a flat wood carving chisel to carefully scrape away the wood from one side of the pencil down to the pencil lead. There are other ways to do this but this is pretty easy and accurate way to remove the material from the pencil.
Figure 2
Once the material is removed then you will need to sand flat and check with a strait edge to make sure the pencil is flat across its bottom side.
Fig 3 Fig 4
On the opposite side of the shaved side use the flat sanding block to make a pointed beveled edge as shownin fig.5. I also use Scotch Tape on the bottom side to keep the pencils lead from falling out and also to keep the lead dust from getting all over my hands and everything else..
Fig 5
Fig 6
The piece to the left of the pencil is what is called soapstone which you can purchase from a welding supply this also works excellent for marking black nuts and is very easy to sharpen and is perfectly flat.
Just remember, sharpen only one side.
OK now that we have our marking utensils made we can now proceed to prep the nut for cutting,
First loosen the strings and move them to the side of the neck then simply lay the flat side of the marking tool and mark the nut from side to side several times to get a good line across the nut.
Fig 7
I personally prefer using the Norman Nut File Gauge System
Which IMO are the best, most accurate and clean cutting nut files you can get.
You can purchase a whole set of 13 for $80.00 and well worth the money
Here is a link to Normans Ebay store… http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/norman_1957_W0QQ_nkwZQQ_armrsZ1QQ_fromZQQ_mdoZ
Fig 8
It is very important to file the slots at an angle lengthwise parallel to the head stock in order to keep the string from binding and to insure that the string is going to lie in the slot properly and the width of the slot should be slightly wider than the string, also to prevent binding. Since fender tuning heads are cut at an offset parallel to the neck angle the file where it is approximately 3/8”above the first fret with the file in the nut slot as shown in fig 9.
Once you reach the top of the mark that was made on the nut you will need to start gauging the slot with a strait edge. Sit the straightedge on the second fret and in the nut slot straddling the first fret. The ideal slot depth is when there is just enough daylight between the straightedge and the fret to smoothly slide a piece of typing paper between the strait edge and the first fret.
You can use the back side of the Norman nut files as a strait edge but they are just a little too short for a bass so a small 6” scale will work great for this procedure.
Fig 9
Once you have achieved the correct slot depths replace the strings in their respective slots then tune to pitch.
While pressing down on the last fret, using the .012 file as a feeler gauge, you should get a snug fit in between the top of the first fret and the bottom of the string this will be the ideal gap between the string and fret.
Provided the action and relief is right (which is altogether another thread topic).
This little mod should have your Bass playing like Buttah.
Fig 10
So There Ya Have It
Take your time, work carefully, continue to check your progress as you file and you should do just fine.
Have Fun!
Well I finally bought a camera and since I was doing a nut job on one of my bass guitars
I thought I would do a step by step with pictures.
I know some of you may do it differently but this is the way I do it so if you have a comment about how I am doing it all wrong (and you know who you are) DON’T, instead start your own damn picture thread and show us how its done instead of coming up in my thread and fucking it up for everyone else who may want to learn how to work a nut.
Ok now that is said... first you will need the essential and probably one of the most important tools for the job(other than the files) is a pencil but not just any pencil you will need to make a half pencil
I don’t use the round variety because you can’t make a very accurate half pencil out of a round one. Instead, use a carpenters pencil
Figure 1
Use a flat wood carving chisel to carefully scrape away the wood from one side of the pencil down to the pencil lead. There are other ways to do this but this is pretty easy and accurate way to remove the material from the pencil.
Figure 2
Once the material is removed then you will need to sand flat and check with a strait edge to make sure the pencil is flat across its bottom side.
Fig 3 Fig 4
On the opposite side of the shaved side use the flat sanding block to make a pointed beveled edge as shownin fig.5. I also use Scotch Tape on the bottom side to keep the pencils lead from falling out and also to keep the lead dust from getting all over my hands and everything else..
Fig 5
Fig 6
The piece to the left of the pencil is what is called soapstone which you can purchase from a welding supply this also works excellent for marking black nuts and is very easy to sharpen and is perfectly flat.
Just remember, sharpen only one side.
OK now that we have our marking utensils made we can now proceed to prep the nut for cutting,
First loosen the strings and move them to the side of the neck then simply lay the flat side of the marking tool and mark the nut from side to side several times to get a good line across the nut.
Fig 7
I personally prefer using the Norman Nut File Gauge System
Which IMO are the best, most accurate and clean cutting nut files you can get.
You can purchase a whole set of 13 for $80.00 and well worth the money
Here is a link to Normans Ebay store… http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/norman_1957_W0QQ_nkwZQQ_armrsZ1QQ_fromZQQ_mdoZ
Fig 8
It is very important to file the slots at an angle lengthwise parallel to the head stock in order to keep the string from binding and to insure that the string is going to lie in the slot properly and the width of the slot should be slightly wider than the string, also to prevent binding. Since fender tuning heads are cut at an offset parallel to the neck angle the file where it is approximately 3/8”above the first fret with the file in the nut slot as shown in fig 9.
Once you reach the top of the mark that was made on the nut you will need to start gauging the slot with a strait edge. Sit the straightedge on the second fret and in the nut slot straddling the first fret. The ideal slot depth is when there is just enough daylight between the straightedge and the fret to smoothly slide a piece of typing paper between the strait edge and the first fret.
You can use the back side of the Norman nut files as a strait edge but they are just a little too short for a bass so a small 6” scale will work great for this procedure.
Fig 9
Once you have achieved the correct slot depths replace the strings in their respective slots then tune to pitch.
While pressing down on the last fret, using the .012 file as a feeler gauge, you should get a snug fit in between the top of the first fret and the bottom of the string this will be the ideal gap between the string and fret.
Provided the action and relief is right (which is altogether another thread topic).
This little mod should have your Bass playing like Buttah.
Fig 10
So There Ya Have It
Take your time, work carefully, continue to check your progress as you file and you should do just fine.
Have Fun!