Punch-in pedal problems

Hammerstone

Hammerstone

Out of style
Hey guys. I've run into a bit of a problem here. I read this post, and decided I should get the same model, the Realistic 44-610 pedal instead of shelling out more money for a real Tascam pedal. Probably a mistake, and now I'm paying for it, because I can't seem to find the adapter I need to get it to work on my 244. Do you guys have any suggestions? Like a fool, I bought the pedal without thinking to check availability at Radio Shack for an adapter, and so far nowhere online has yielded up what I'm looking for. Which would be 3/32" (2.5mm) female mono to 1/4" male mono, I think.

Opinions?

I have no experience, but should I look into soldering a 1/4" tip onto the unit's cord?
 
Argh. Soldering/wiring is really not my forte. I even tried to take it apart to see if I could just change out the wire itself, but stupid screws on bottom do nothing more than remove the metal plate from the plastic on the bottom. Foiled again.
 
Or I found this:

www.cablesandconnectors.com/25000-25

The left one in the second row. That's 2.5mm female to 1/8" male mono. Then you could use an 1/8" female to 1/4" male. Those are really common. You could also get it from the same place (right one on the 8th row).

You'd be using two adapters, but hey, I've done it plenty of times, and it works! :)
 
Hammerstone said:
Hey guys. I've run into a bit of a problem here. I read this post, and decided I should get the same model, the Realistic 44-610 pedal instead of shelling out more money for a real Tascam pedal. Probably a mistake, and now I'm paying for it, because I can't seem to find the adapter I need to get it to work on my 244. Do you guys have any suggestions? Like a fool, I bought the pedal without thinking to check availability at Radio Shack for an adapter, and so far nowhere online has yielded up what I'm looking for. Which would be 3/32" (2.5mm) female mono to 1/4" male mono, I think.

Opinions?

I have no experience, but should I look into soldering a 1/4" tip onto the unit's cord?
Click to expand...

Yep, if you look carefully at that post you'll see I had to put a 1/4" plug on it. (But it looks like something has corrupted the 1/4 in the post to some nonsensical symbols)

Anyway, The Realistic pedal has passed the test of time with flying colors. I first used it with a Tascam 144 that I moded, adding a punch-in jack, and then the 244 and finally the 246, which I still have. I soldered a 1/4 plug onto it back in 1981.

Generally speaking you should look for some experience soldering very basic stuff like this. You'll be happier knowing how.
 
Thanks for the responses, guys. Yeah, soldering is something that I should learn how to do at some point, but that doesn't have to do today. Beagle, thanks for the link, I went ahead and bid. Nice and simple, and I don't have to get my hands dirty. Of course, this does mean the Radio Shack piece goes on the pile of projects I need to complete sometime...
 
I know it's a conflict of interests for me here :-))), but when bidding on an ebay auction, I've always found it best to do this. Decide the top dollar I'm willing to pay for something, wait until there's about 8 seconds left in the auction, and then enter my bid. You get one shot at it. If you're the high bidder at that point, you'll usually win the auction (though not always). If not, then so be it.

But this approach does two things: 1) It helps prevent the price from climbing (bidding early can only increase the price), and 2) More importantly, it prevents you from paying more than you really want to for an item, which can happen if you get caught up in a bidding war.
 
Oh, I know all about sniping, but if it's something that I'm on the fence about, but no one else seems interested in, sometimes I'll just set the minimum bid allowed, and let Fate decide. Oftentimes I'll win, and on the occasion that I don't, it doesn't cost the higher bidder more than 50 cents more (see how much your pedal is going for now). I'm not into racking up prices for an item that I may not get, unless I'm serious about getting it. However, even bidding at the last second doesn't work all the times: I bid on a Scully 280 that was up in Denver; it only had 3 bids on it and was at about $109.00, so at the last second I bid 150, but I still didn't win. Oh well, wasn't willing to pay more.

You know, that's probably a good topic for another page as well, but I agree with this guy 100% when it comes to bidding on online. It's part of a lengthy tutorial that I think everyone should read:
How to Win at eBay
 
Hammerstone said:
Oh, I know all about sniping, but if it's something that I'm on the fence about, but no one else seems interested in, sometimes I'll just set the minimum bid allowed, and let Fate decide. Oftentimes I'll win, and on the occasion that I don't, it doesn't cost the higher bidder more than 50 cents more (see how much your pedal is going for now). I'm not into racking up prices for an item that I may not get, unless I'm serious about getting it. However, even bidding at the last second doesn't work all the times: I bid on a Scully 280 that was up in Denver; it only had 3 bids on it and was at about $109.00, so at the last second I bid 150, but I still didn't win. Oh well, wasn't willing to pay more.

You know, that's probably a good topic for another page as well, but I agree with this guy 100% when it comes to bidding on online. It's part of a lengthy tutorial that I think everyone should read:
How to Win at eBay
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link. I'll check out the article. I'm on eBay e-fricking-nough! :)
 
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