New Console Desk Build

technominds

New member
Some regulars on this forum may remember a while back when I was completing my studio build I built a desk to house my Mixer and control surfaces. It has served me very well although unfortunately my crappy behringer MX 2442a wouldn't last me as long as the desk would.

I managed to grab myself a Soundcraft Spirit Studio 32 for a STEAL which has significantly increased the quality of my recordings but also the size of room my equipment now takes up!

The new console does not fit nicely on my desk and I am thinking of either modifying my current desk or just starting over with a new build.

The console is a bit of a beast, and unfortunately does not have (or have room for) a meterbridge.

I have come up with one CAD design, but I'm not too sure if it would balance correctly.

One other issue I had was that I like to use my control surfaces, so I couldn't really sit at the main desk all the time... so splitting my workspace into analogue/digital would be the way forward.

Here is the design I came up with, it's pretty simple and only calls for a couple of angles cuts (I'm no master with a saw).

Let me know what you guys think and also if you have any suggestions for designs. I want it to look pro/flush.

http://i28.tinypic.com/2q03bxh.jpg
 
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Nothing? :(

Some advice would be nice.. I really want to go all out on this one but i'l need some help from my friends :)
 
It looks like it would be a pain to always be looking to the right of you to see the screens. Can you move the screens to a better location? I an an analog person, so I like to use my ears rather then my eyes to tell me what the music is doing. So I guess I'm saying that it might be a good idea to leave the screens where you have then and let your ears do the adjusting. Good luck.
 
It looks like it would be a pain to always be looking to the right of you to see the screens. Can you move the screens to a better location? I an an analog person, so I like to use my ears rather then my eyes to tell me what the music is doing. So I guess I'm saying that it might be a good idea to leave the screens where you have then and let your ears do the adjusting. Good luck.

The desk will mainly be for using the pre-amps or summing. If I want to mix using the desk I can move the screens but I keep them there so I can work on the workstation with the control surfaces.. I tried to think of a design that would allow me to use both but I could only think of putting the control surfaces on a moving rail that moved over the analogue desk.. but seemed a little too difficult :(
 
I tried to think of a design that would allow me to use both but I could only think of putting the control surfaces on a moving rail that moved over the analogue desk.. but seemed a little too difficult

This is exactly what I did. And your right. I WAS difficult to implement. Especially milling the wrist pad backer board. But I use it for keyboards, mouse, drum machine or what ever I'm using at the moment. But NEVER a glass of beer. :pThe key to a linear motion track is BEVELED bearings with off center axles for adjustment into the track. I found these bearings in a specialty catalog for resturant supplys. Cost me $75 for four of em...dumb me. But I like cool stuff for my console:D The track is a Store fixture extrusion for a store front. Works great.


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Wow, that looks like a HUGE challenge.. not so sure if I would be up to that job! Looks quite expensive and complex...

Would you say it would be a good idea to off-set the workstation to the right and just have my analogue desk by itself?

Most of your desk looks like metal-work.. I'm guessing that would be way over my head... may just have to stick with MDF :(
 
that looks like a HUGE challenge
It didn't seem so at the time, although in retrospect, for the average DIY this probably is absurd.:D Thing is...I have lot of products and materials at hand from collecting stuff where I used to work. It allows me to try stuff that under normal circumstances would be quite expensive and challanging to a DIYer. But I enjoy the challanges and it makes my DIY projects come out the way I desire..regardless of the time it takes. Consider the monitor bridge "interlocks"..now THOSE were a real challange. Took a month. But the monitor bridge, which is a metal frame, with two surfaces clad with gloss black formica on 3/4"MDF, spanning 104", which when two computer monitors, two near field monitors, two lamps, and two computer audio monitors are added, weighs over 100lbs, and must "rotate" via these interlocks which are also the "hinge" and height/depth adjustment for the bridge itself, had to be very robust. But it was fun.:D Worked perfect too.
But damn they were a bitch to design. Spent 2 weeks in Autocad to get them down.

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Most of your desk looks like metal-work.. I'm guessing that would be way over my head... may just have to stick with MDF
Yes, 90% is metal tubing. This is because I built two previous versions of wood framing and legs, both of which, because of the span between legs, when loaded with equipment(not even fully loaded either) SAGGED(deflection) in the middle.:eek::mad:. Had I changed the design to a boxbeam type(which is a fancy word for cabinet design instead of beams...kinda like ..whats that console company name? oh yea, Argosy) they may not have deflected, but I opted for welded steel tubing. I'm glad I did now. I've modified this console many times for equipment upgrades. The last was for my M3700...that puppy weighs almost 200lbs...:eek: which with everything else..geezus, I don't know what the whole thing weighs. A lot though.
Just remember, when using MDF, use a PANEL as the linear support undernieth the deck. A 3/4"panel(say 18" wide, will NOT deflect, especially if fastened to a deck above by a cleat or directly with screws in the edge. This creates a kind of "I" beam. If I knew the dimensions of your equipment I'd post a Sketchup of what I would do.
 
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