Need advice with DIY corner Traps

wannaknow

New member
Hi all, I intend to make some corner traps for a space 11' wide x 21' 7" long. One side is 9' floor to ceiling the other 9' 11" floor to ceiling. The panels will be 4" thick. I read somewhere that the gap behind the panel to the corner should be 16 inches. To achieve this, the panel has to be at least 4' wide. At a later date there will be at least 8 wall panels 4 inches thick as well. In an effort to save space and insulation , I was wondering if I could make the traps 2' wide? At 2' wide the gap would be about 12 inches. Would the narrow trap still be effective? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Here is a crude drawing of what I'm trying to do.img040.jpg
 
I'm no expert, but my thoughts are...

The critical dimension is the thickness of the panels and you will be using 4 inch panels, so that's good. The void behind is not as important. I'm willing to bet you can stuff the voids with pink fluffy and get better bass response with the 12" gap than an empty 16" gap.

Hopefully, someone who knows for sure will stop by with a definitive answer.
 
Actually the void behind a bass trap is very important from what I have read about the topic. Yes, it has been stated many times by the guys that do this room treatment for a living, that filling the gap behind a corner trap with fluffy is more effective than the 'superchunk' approach. The biggest issue seems to be holding up the fluffy stuff.

Bass traps always perform better with an air gap behind them. It is normally the limitations of the size of a room that stops most from being able to hang wall absorbers another 4" into their space (absorbers on the walls). As far as corner traps go, the most commonly used method seems to be a 2'x4'x4" thick panel straddling the corner. I found that the same width/thickness from floor to ceiling works much better in my space. I have not filled the space behind them as one of my corners is a doorway, so I need the panel to be portable. Symmetry is also a consideration, so I just left it as it is. When I built the full length panels, I had a few too many beers, and forgot to add the Kraft paper to the face before covering with fabric. I even bought the stuff... Not sure if it would have made much difference, but I was informed it would help some. Anyway, the difference of a full length panel sounded obvious to me, and anything is way better than none at all.

Also, do not forget that wall to ceiling is also a corner and that can be treated in the same way while conserving valuable space. Just hanging them becomes the issue. Not a big deal if you own your property. Landlords not going to like holes for anchors needed to hold up bass traps from the ceiling.

I am about ready to build a new isolation room that will include wall/ceiling bass traps. The space is a bit small (16X13X8' I think) and I want to keep it a bit live sounding. Just not the low end buildup. I will surely be back to this forum for advice from the ones who know their shiz.
 
I'm no expert, but my thoughts are...

The critical dimension is the thickness of the panels and you will be using 4 inch panels, so that's good. The void behind is not as important. I'm willing to bet you can stuff the voids with pink fluffy and get better bass response with the 12" gap than an empty 16" gap.

Hopefully, someone who knows for sure will stop by with a definitive answer.
Thanks Chili, I was thinking the narrow trap would be alright, but I want to hear what the consensus is before I commit.
 
Actually the void behind a bass trap is very important from what I have read about the topic. Yes, it has been stated many times by the guys that do this room treatment for a living, that filling the gap behind a corner trap with fluffy is more effective than the 'superchunk' approach. The biggest issue seems to be holding up the fluffy stuff.

Bass traps always perform better with an air gap behind them. It is normally the limitations of the size of a room that stops most from being able to hang wall absorbers another 4" into their space (absorbers on the walls). As far as corner traps go, the most commonly used method seems to be a 2'x4'x4" thick panel straddling the corner. I found that the same width/thickness from floor to ceiling works much better in my space. I have not filled the space behind them as one of my corners is a doorway, so I need the panel to be portable. Symmetry is also a consideration, so I just left it as it is. When I built the full length panels, I had a few too many beers, and forgot to add the Kraft paper to the face before covering with fabric. I even bought the stuff... Not sure if it would have made much difference, but I was informed it would help some. Anyway, the difference of a full length panel sounded obvious to me, and anything is way better than none at all.

Also, do not forget that wall to ceiling is also a corner and that can be treated in the same way while conserving valuable space. Just hanging them becomes the issue. Not a big deal if you own your property. Landlords not going to like holes for anchors needed to hold up bass traps from the ceiling.

I am about ready to build a new isolation room that will include wall/ceiling bass traps. The space is a bit small (16X13X8' I think) and I want to keep it a bit live sounding. Just not the low end buildup. I will surely be back to this forum for advice from the ones who know their shiz.
Great! The wall to ceiling join has a curved cornice all around the room. Does this make it unnecessary to consider it as a corner? I'll be able to make holes in the walls and ceiling, they just have to be patched at the end of the lease.
 
Actually the void behind a bass trap is very important from what I have read about the topic. Yes, it has been stated many times by the guys that do this room treatment for a living, that filling the gap behind a corner trap with fluffy is more effective than the 'superchunk' approach. The biggest issue seems to be holding up the fluffy stuff.

Bass traps always perform better with an air gap behind them. It is normally the limitations of the size of a room that stops most from being able to hang wall absorbers another 4" into their space (absorbers on the walls). As far as corner traps go, the most commonly used method seems to be a 2'x4'x4" thick panel straddling the corner. I found that the same width/thickness from floor to ceiling works much better in my space. I have not filled the space behind them as one of my corners is a doorway, so I need the panel to be portable. Symmetry is also a consideration, so I just left it as it is. When I built the full length panels, I had a few too many beers, and forgot to add the Kraft paper to the face before covering with fabric. I even bought the stuff... Not sure if it would have made much difference, but I was informed it would help some. Anyway, the difference of a full length panel sounded obvious to me, and anything is way better than none at all.

Also, do not forget that wall to ceiling is also a corner and that can be treated in the same way while conserving valuable space. Just hanging them becomes the issue. Not a big deal if you own your property. Landlords not going to like holes for anchors needed to hold up bass traps from the ceiling.

I am about ready to build a new isolation room that will include wall/ceiling bass traps. The space is a bit small (16X13X8' I think) and I want to keep it a bit live sounding. Just not the low end buildup. I will surely be back to this forum for advice from the ones who know their shiz.

When it comes to low frequency treatment actually insulation is always better than an air gap. An air gap behind panels is just enhancing the performance of the panels but for low frequency you can't beat insulation.
A decent superchunk should be made with fluffy insulation all the way form the back to front. If they are a good depth they should be able to perform very high to 60hz and lower
 
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