Neck adjustments

SSgtP

New member
I need to raise the action a bit on a strat type guitar that I have. I know that some of this stuff is pretty easy, but I've never messed with the neck of one of my guitars before, and I don't want to make it any worse that it is already. The access to the truss rod is at the base of the neck, just showing half way above the pick guard above the neck pickup. I guess my question is, to raise the action, would I turn it clock wise? How far? I just want to bring it up slightly to eliminate a buzz.


Thanks
P
 
Re: Neck adjustments - COUNTER CLOCKWISE

SSgtP said:
I need to raise the action a bit on a strat type guitar that I have. I know that some of this stuff is pretty easy, but I've never messed with the neck of one of my guitars before, and I don't want to make it any worse that it is already. The access to the truss rod is at the base of the neck, just showing half way above the pick guard above the neck pickup. I guess my question is, to raise the action, would I turn it clock wise? How far? I just want to bring it up slightly to eliminate a buzz.

Thanks
P

SsgtP,

Hey bud. If the guitar's truss rod is a bit to tight, then loosening it should help you out. Keep in mind there are other causes of this problem of buzzing (i.e. raised frets, bad strings, etc). Anyway, to answer your question... To loosten the rod, you would turn it counter clockwise (As you are looking at at). This will increase the bow in the neck caused by the tension of the strings, thus increasing the action. If you tighten the truss rod, it strengthens the neck if you will and decreses the amount that the tension of the strings bows the neck. So clockwise to straighten, counter clockwise to bow.

(Remember "righty = tighty / Lefty = Loosey" I would start with a 1/4 turn and work your way out from there. Unfortunately, many guitars require that the neck be unbolted to access the truss rod for this adjustment. Be careful if that is the case. I am sure that you will do fine.

Fangar
 
You may not need to take the neck off completely. You should be able to loosen the strings, loosen the bolts and work the neck to where you can access the truss rod adjusting screw.

. . . and don't be afraid of turning the screw - 1/4 turn at a time will not hurt it at all - in fact you may not see any difference with a 1/4 turn - but definitely only do that much each time y ou adhjust it then retune, let it sit for a while and see how it's doing.

foo
 
I thought I might be able to take off the voulume/tone nobs, and take the pick guard off. It looks like I might be able to reach it like that.

P
 
If you dont know what you are doing you can take it into a tech and they will set it up for less than $50 usually.
 
I would love to be able to take it to a good tech, but I'm US military stationed in Germany, and I haven't been able to find anybody that I trust. Anyway, nine more months and I come back to the good old US of A!! Can't wait.
 
why don't you try to lift the bridge a little, without touching the neck?
If it comes out of tune you can fine tune it again adjusting the saddle back and forth.

Maybe that'll help.

Cheers, Andrés
 
cordura21 said:
why don't you try to lift the bridge a little, without touching the neck?
If it comes out of tune you can fine tune it again adjusting the saddle back and forth.

Maybe that'll help.

Cheers, Andrés


No, Bad idea. Check the truss rod first. Do fiddle with the bridge until you have that checked out.

Fangar
 
I bought an Ibanez in Nor Cal and brought it down to Phoenix and the change in humidity really screwed up the action. I gave it a couple months to get acclimated and tried adjusting the action myself and really screwed it up.

DAMN YOU FLOYD ROSE!!!

I get it back from the shop tomorrow, cant wait.
 
I have a love hate relationship with locking tremelos, they're a usefull tool, but a pain to work on. I've messed them up too, that's why I like strats and tele's.
 
Before you start to adjust yor neck do a couple of simple checks first, it might save you some grief.
Put a finger on the first ffret and on the 12th. in between at the centre you should have a slight clearance, this is a matter of choice from practically none to .031". This is fairly important as your strings vibrate in an ellipse. If you have a gap in that tolerance, repeat the exercise this time on the last fret, it wont be the same, but it should still have a gap.
You say you have a strat type guitar, if the bridge is the traditional "Fender type" you will have to raise the saddles, do this turning the allen screws one flat at a time, remember to adjust the tension in the string as you will be raising the pitch and have a risk of breakage.
Remember to keep the profile of the fretboard.
If you have done this and it is still buzzing, check that the portion from the 12th. fret to the end is not raising, this is called a rising tongue, normally there is a 5 to 10 degree fall from the 12th fret, called a falling tongue.
With bolt on guitars it is normal to shim the neck, as this dramatically alters the alignment of the neck, if you do decide to do this use a brass shim rather than plastic, as the plastic to my ear seems to affect sustain and the brass is far more stable, try a small shim to start with, say .010", on some guitars you will have an allen screw that does the same, don't over do it. But before you touch anything are your frets worn? in the area you play the most.
Humidity or lack of it is a real bastard on necks, I live in the North West desert area of Australia and I have had guitars come into me so dried out that the frets protrude where the neck material has shrunk and a bow in a maple fretboard Strat that was totally unplayable, I steamed it and got it straight, but before attacking it check it. I make about 50% of my repair money from people who have had a go themselves first and got it wrong.
Good luck
Clive Hugh
 
I just got my guitar back from the tech and it rocks!!! After screwing with it myself for 3mos I can actually play it again. Best $40 I ever spent. (Unless you count that hooker in Tijuana).
 
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