TexRoadkill said:I spent about $7.80 per 1.5" 703. The wood was a few bucks for each one. I haven't decided on the material yet but prices I have seen are around $1.50 - 3.00 per sq yard. My guess is they will end up being around $15-20 per panel when all is said and done. My biggest expense was $90 on a cheapo compound miter saw.
With just the frame mine will be about 2" off of the wall. I may add some spacers to put them out farther. When you do the math the absorption gain with a few inches of space is pretty minimal. You really need around a foot or more to make a considerable difference. I am going to put them up and do some test recordings. If I need more low end absorbtion I might make some FRK corner panels. I am thinking about spacing them around a foot apart and putting some diffusers in between them.
I'm a little curious what people would pay for a panel with a wood frame and cloth covering. It would be easy to sub out the work to a furniture company. I wonder if people would pay $35-$50 for a finished 2'x4' panel.
toadies said:hey got to fund your habit right?
So, to be efficient you need atleast 12" off the wall? why is there microcosm and minitraps that are flush againist or little off the wall. hmm i'm going to research some more.
toadies said:what freq did you acheive to absorb?
TexRoadkill said:I was just trying to knock down the early reflections. I'm not being too scientific about the whole procedure. I'd like to add some simple diffusers to go in between the absorbers. So far just putting those up along one wall has really deadened the room alot. I need to put some up along the opposite wall and do something with the short walls at the ends. I have two sets of external french doors in the room so I'm not too worried about bass absorption right now.
I had an idea last night that I may try out. I was thinking of putting a piece of 1" (same that I used on the frames) running horizontally along the length of the wall. I could use that as a rail to mount the absorbers and diffusors by just hanging them on the rail. That way there is no real fuss when it comes to spacing them out, checking height and level or changing things out later.
The really slick way to do it would be to cut an angle on the rail so it forms a slight 'V' channel between the wall and rail. The top panel vertical supports could be cut so they lock into the rail. That way the whole thing fits together snugly but can be torn down or rearranged with ease. I wish I had thought of that before I built the frames. If more air gap was needed then it's just a matter of putting spacers behind the rail instead of adding onto every single panel.