my acoustic panel plans... (diagram included, comments appreciated)

braden_

New member
panels0001.jpg


i've been talking about building panels for 3 1/2 years and now with tax returns coming i'm finally going to do it!

so basically it's going to fold in on itself like an armoir or cupboard doors would when i'm not using it. i think i'm going to build 2 of them.


my questions, to those who feel inspired to answer:
what options other than burlap do i have for material? i'm not sure i want to use burlap...
and is it bad to have a wood backing on panels that i would spray glue the fiberglass to? or do people generally just adhere them to the sides of the frame? (since they could conceivably be closed for a considerable amount of time, want them to look kind of nice, you know?)
if it's bad, i'll have to find some way to brace the panels in the frames, because i like the look of a stained frame with the fiberglass wrapped inside, rather than the cloth wrapping over the framing entirely)

what do you guys think? =)
 
I use cotton for mine, much cleaner looking IMO.

Kind of confused on what you mean as far as wrapping them. Either way is fine though, you can just glue the insulation to the inside of the frame or you can put small braces in the corners of the frames to keep the insulation forward. It may not happen short term, but long term the insulation may start to sag if there's nothing supporting it, doesn't have to be a full wood backing, but something needs to be keeping it from falling down and out of the back if you leave an air gap.
 
as in just wrapping the fiberglass itself to hold in the fibers as opposed to wrapping the cloth around the fiberglass AND the wood.

there will be air gap, this is a freestanding setup, won't be hanging on the walls.

and cotton, just like sheet fabric? works just fine?
 
gotcha, you can do it either way, which ever way you think will look better. I would still suggest having something to keep the panel forward in the frame. Especially a freestanding/movable set up, it's only a matter of time before it gets knocked into or pushed and the bond of glue breaks.

And yes cotton, I used "cotton sateen" it's essentially two thin layers of cotton, really strong and durable. It'll be pretty standard in any fabric store and it has a nice shine to it, looks really nice. It is more expensive compared to other fabrics but if you flirt with the fabric girls you can get discounts lol :D
 
I used regular fabric as I find burlap to be ugly.

I used OC703 and framed it with red cedar then wraped the whole thing in fabric. The OC703 isn't glued to anything, it just sits inside the frame and the fabric holds it in place.
 
I found cotton muslin for about $1/yard. I got it because it was cheap and I needed a lot, but I like the look of it too. I think the problem that you'll run into wrapping just the fiberglass is getting it tight and not wrinkly. I made my frames out of chipboard that was cut into strips and braced inside. The compressed fiberglass just gets held in place by the fabric and frame. In the panels with batt insulation, I stapled it to the insides of the frames. Since I wrapped the whole frame with the fabric, I was able to pull it tight and get a smooth front. I have 2 hinged panels that needed a finished back. With some time and patience, I was able to use hot glue to put a back panel of fabric on these, so the back looks basically like the front.

If you really like the wood look, you could make the panels how I did, then attach some finished pine around the outside, like trim. It would add some weight, but you could use something thin since it would just be cosmetic. In theory a wood back may have some effect on the panels, because you would be adding a reflective surface behind the insulation. It's recommended to hang broadband panels a few inches from a wall, right? On the other hand, mine are right against the wall and do just fine.

You can see the panels I made here: https://homerecording.com/bbs/general-discussions/studio-building-display/new-bedroom-studio-pictures-337488/
 
If you really like the wood look, you could make the panels how I did, then attach some finished pine around the outside, like trim. It would add some weight, but you could use something thin since it would just be cosmetic. In theory a wood back may have some effect on the panels, because you would be adding a reflective surface behind the insulation. It's recommended to hang broadband panels a few inches from a wall, right? On the other hand, mine are right against the wall and do just fine.

You can see the panels I made here: https://homerecording.com/bbs/general-discussions/studio-building-display/new-bedroom-studio-pictures-337488/

That's a great suggestion there, just add finishing wood to them and since they'll be portable you won't have to worry about the weight and hanging them.

And yep, it's generally recommended to have an air gap behind the insulation. For my broadbands I've just used 2x4s to make a frame and then 2in insulation in there so I have a 2 inch air gap between the insulation and the wall.
 
Keep in mind, when you build a wooden frame around OC703 you are reducing the absorbtion rate by up to 33%!
Go here Page 9
and then scroll down to the 5th project photo on right.
I have already started to create the PDF plans to build these supports and should have it ready soon.
The supports only cost about $10-$12 dependent on where you purchase your wood and hardware.
BG
 
Keep in mind, when you build a wooden frame around OC703 you are reducing the absorbtion rate by up to 33%!
ummm, can you provide a link to Lab tests that confirm your statement? And how does thickness fit into this equation? How bout gas flow resistivity and angle of incidence too? Btw..it's ABSORPTION :D

It would appear, if anything, NOT having a boundary(ie..wood panel) on the back side would reduce the amount of absorption due to the 1/4 wavelength principle that resistance absorbers perform best at. That's NOT to say they won't absorb without a back. The absorption coefficient will just be less. And making the depth of the frames even deeper by at least one half the thickness of the material will lower the frequency of best LF performance by creating an AIRGAP between the absorber and the boundary. ...ie...For 4" thick material..create a 2-4"airgap as well.

Unfortunately, even though the purpose of these is portable gobo's, they will do little for overall LF absorption in the ROOM, as LF will simply diffract around them...and terminate...as they ALWAYS do...in the corners of the room. Which is WHERE LF absorption needs to be...diagonally, floor to ceiling, and preferably as wide and thick as possible. At least 2 layers of 4" or better yet.." diagonals stacked floor to ceiling..ie..Superchunk. There are TONS of threads here showing how to build these.

Btw, IF, these are indeed gobo's, I'd use 3/4" MDF for the backs, which will impede sound propagation past them better than 1/4" ply. Much more mass, so you might wanna plan on some mobility with wheels too.

Well, that's my .02, for what it's worth.
 
ummm, can you provide a link to Lab tests that confirm your statement? And how does thickness fit into this equation? How bout gas flow resistivity and angle of incidence too? Btw..it's ABSORPTION :D

FYI, I gathered my information, primarily from Ethan Winer's "Acoustics" Website.
Ethan is co-owner of the "Real Traps" Company so I am assuming he has more than a clue.

If I remember correctly, the concept is similar to opening a window.
If you open a window half way, the window glass that remains open blocks a portion of the air flow.
In this case it would be the wood/MDF sides blocking sound waves from passing through those covered portions of the "OC703" panel thus reducing the effectiveness.

Also, when soundwaves pass through a backless acoustic panel, hit the wall and disperse throughout the room in differing directions, the frame covered portions of the acoustic panel will stop any reflected sound waves from entering through the "OC703" for a second pass, as it were, thus, again, limiting the effectiveness of "heat reduction" that occurs.

As far as thickness is concerned, it's all relative.
If you block portions of the acoustic panel no matter how thin or thick, you are stopping soundwaves from passing through it, period.

If you'd like to peruse Ethan's site to find the specific as to his concepts as to how blocking off portions of an acoustic panel would reduce it's efficiency and effectiveness, I'm sure he would be honored to have someone like you taking interest in his expertise.

(Of course, I'm not an acoustic engineer but I was fortunate to spend some extensive time with the the people at sE Electronics learning about the testing and acoustic principles of their "Pro" Reflexion Filter when it was first released then soon after spending time learning acoustic principles with Ethan Winer after the release of his "Real Traps" "Portable Vocal Booth". In fact, I found myself in the middle between both companies for a time during some good-natured competitive "ours is better" "no OURS is better" bantering. Thus, I'm not an expert, I just have enough knowledge to be dangerous, usually to myself more than anyone else. ;)
 
Hi.
FYI, I gathered my information, primarily from Ethan Winer's "Acoustics" Website.
Ok, I know Ethan, and he knows me.:D We've had many conversations over the years. And I've observed his "debates" with other colleagues over the years, including this subject with Eric Desart. In reality, I defended Ethan from viscious verbal attacks at the height of the anti-Ethan period. :cursing:

If I remember correctly, the concept is similar to opening a window.
Yes, I am familiar with the concept. 1sq' of Perfect absorber = 1sq' of open window=1 Sabine

If you open a window half way, the window glass that remains open blocks a portion of the air flow.
:wtf:Hmmm. I'll have to think about that one for a minute. :D

In this case it would be the wood/MDF sides blocking sound waves from passing through those covered portions of the "OC703" panel thus reducing the effectiveness.
That's odd. I never said it didn't. I asked where you got the information regarding "up to 33%". However, this all has to do with the "EDGE EFFECT" causing absorption coefficients of over 1, no?
Now, I'm certainly no expert, and please don't quote me on this,. but you might be interested. If I remember right, Eric did TWO tests on some panels of 703, whereby they were laid out on the floor of a lab in a checkerboard fashion, according to a certain Test Standard. In the first test, the panels were layed out in such a way as the edges were exposed, and yes, the results proved the absorption coefficient was more than 1. However, in the second test, the panels were FLUSH mounted within a framework that acted as a wall, and they STILL had an absorption coefficient of over 1. Since Eric is an acoustician, he hypothesized that absorption impedance differences(or something to that effect) were indeed the cause, as there were NO edges exposed to account for this extra absorption. So...in that light, at that time, I kind of stopped following the debate any further. If Ethan/others went on, and proved/disproved various arguments...so be it, as frankly, I didn't give a fuck....UNTILL I saw your statement. I was only trying to find out where you got the 33% thing. THAT's ALL!:rolleyes:

As far as thickness is concerned, it's all relative.
ummm, IF, the "edge effect" is indeed due to exposed edge absorption...then on the contrary, thickness has a profound influence in comparison to the square footage of the front and back. ie, unless I'm missing something....IF, a 12"x12"x1" panel = X absorption coefficient in a given band, then a panel 12"x12"x6" "should" show an increase, no? Please explain if my assumption is incorrect. And please understand, I am NOT trying to debate this one way or the other. I haven't got the expertise, time, energy..etc..besides, it's already been done. I just wanna come up to speed, so to speak. And if you know the latest poop in this regard, I'd be delighted to hear it. ;)

Also, when soundwaves pass through a backless acoustic panel, hit the wall and disperse throughout the room in differing directions, the frame covered portions of the acoustic panel will stop any reflected sound waves from entering through the "OC703" for a second pass, as it were, thus, again, limiting the effectiveness of "heat reduction" that occurs.
ummm, would you care to clarify that last bit. A reflected wave propagation BACK through the panel ..LIMITS the effectiveness...of heat reduction????? I was under the impression that the "interstices", as Everest called them, of the fibers were EXACTLY what causes "resistance" to gas flow, which in turn, results in an energy transform, which in turn, results in "absorption" of air molecular movement..OR SOMETHING TO THAT EFFECT.:D And the process is no different whether it's a direct wave or a reflected wave...no?
So, ummm, now I'm a little confused by your statement.

If you block portions of the acoustic panel no matter how thin or thick, you are stopping soundwaves from passing through it, period.
Your absolutism is questionable. What happens when a 11ft long wavelength meets a 4" wide obstruction?;) I seem to think it doesn't give a damn. :D

If you'd like to peruse Ethan's site to find the specific as to his concepts as to how blocking off portions of an acoustic panel would reduce it's efficiency and effectiveness, I'm sure he would be honored to have someone like you taking interest in his expertise.
Honored??? Shit, Ethan knows me and knows my PROFESSIONAL expertise in acoustics is ZILCH...ZERO...NADA!! That's why he can ignore me and roll his eyes at will.:D Acoustics for me is simply about learning, and like everyone else at HR, I'm just a recording "enthusiast" who happens to know enough about acoustics to make a fool of myself once in a while. :facepalm: But still, I have to ask questions. In that regard, I wasn't confronting you...on the contrary..I was trying to LEARN from you. :rolleyes:

(Of course, I'm not an acoustic engineer but I was fortunate to spend some extensive time with the the people at sE Electronics learning about the testing and acoustic principles of their "Pro" Reflexion Filter when it was first released then soon after spending time learning acoustic principles with Ethan Winer after the release of his "Real Traps" "Portable Vocal Booth". In fact, I found myself in the middle between both companies for a time during some good-natured competitive "ours is better" "no OURS is better" bantering. Thus, I'm not an expert, I just have enough knowledge to be dangerous, usually to myself more than anyone else.

Well crap...that's more than I can say.:D More power to ya!

And btw, in reality, this is fitZ, if that means anything. Although, I bet there's a few here that'll have something to say about it, and it won't be nice. :p Oh well. I'm here, like it or not. :p

Anyway, have a great day.
 
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