Muttley, bridge question...

[32-20-Blues]

Muttley, on my balalaika (as on all balalaikas), the bridge is very long. The 3 strings passing over it in the middle take up about an inch, but the bridge itself is about 6 inches long. Does this give it a characteristic sound? In other words, with a shorter bridge, would it sound different?

The intonation on the middle string is way off, so I'm going to make a new bridge and compensate it. Anything I should be aware of? Mahogany okay as a wood to use, maybe with a bone insert?

Also, any idea on what the action should be like on one of these? I'm guessing closer to a nylon string guitar than a steel string, right?

With regard to learning it, I'm making progress. I'm definitely not using it for what it's intended for, but it's all good.

Thanks man, you're a legend.

 

[muttley600]

First a disclaimer, I really don't have ant experience working on those things so I'm speaking entirely on what I know about guitars and also on other instruments that have wide long thin bridges such as lutes, and some flat top mandolins, mandolas et al. (whisper it some banjo's as well).

The size shape and material a bridge is made of can make a huge difference to the tone of an instrument and to a large degree ymmv depending on what sound your after. If an instrument is well designed the bridge will sit over the braces in such a way as to allow the sound to transfer efficiently to the soundboard and possibly more important, spread the load of the strings over the top.

My guess is that you would be better off with a wide narrow bridge on thatbecause thats what works on similar instruments. Without seeing it in front of me it's hard to tell. I like to have as wide a bridge as is practical on most instruments I build and it HAS to sit over any braces that run along the grain in that area. The one good thing about floating bridges is that you can swap them out and try different things. Just be careful about the braces as I stated above. You don't want the top collapsing. As I said I don't know what the loading is on those or what the typical bracing system is but I'd check it first.

As to the material. Mahogany will work but I'd be looking to use rosewood or ebony first or possibly maple as in a violin bridge. On a plucked instrument a bone saddle is always good but not essential. The other thing that makes a big difference on that style of bridge is the umber of feet. One two, even three, or full contact. What do you have?

As to the intonation. Be sure to check it with decent strings before you go making adjustments with a new bridge. Some of the strings those EMS instruments ship with a pure crap. Test out the amount of compensation needed first and work out whether you can get close. I would guess that with a good set of strings and a reasonable action just a slanted saddle should be OK. What is the string length, tuning and what gauge do you have on there now.