Making own cables

cincy_kid

cincy_kid

Active member
So I think I am going to give a shot at making my own cables (mic and instrument) and been looking around at Redco for some pricing. I've seen some varying opinions on the cables but wanted to see what you guys thought here.

Mogami vs Gotham vs Gepco vs Redco brand?

Whats the best cable at the right price point? I mean, if Mogami is 2x as much as Redco brand and if it's not 2x as good then Redco would be the answer. What do you all think?

Also for connectors I guess it's Neutrik or Amphenol for best choices?
 
Some general advice.

Do pay for good connectors (Neutrik, Amphenol, Switchcraft, etc). Not there will necessarily be an audible difference, but good connectors will be within specifications, be structurally sound, and will last longer.

For cable, you do not need to buy esoteric stuff (I would probably avoid cheap no-name cable though). To your list, also add Canare and Belden. It is generally cheaper to buy in large lengths. Consider capacitance per meter (lower is generally better, particularly for long runs), and whether the install to be fixed in place (can use stiffer cable), or cables need to be moved about (more flexible cable might be better). Research prices, as they can vary.

If you have not soldered before, practice on cheapie stuff before using your good cable and connectors.

There are plenty of video tutorials out there.

Alternatively, have a look at Blue Jeans Cable who make stuff to order and prices don't seem too bad.
 
and for my follow up question... :)

I know you don't get any benefit from using a TRS cable for plugging in your guitar to your amp, but since it doesn't harm anything either, I was thinking of buying the TRS cable only and making the different lengths I need instead of buying both TS and TRS. That way I can use all TRS for all of my cables:

Guitar to amp
Bass to Amp
Bass to preamp
preamp to soundcard
soundcard to mixer
etc...

I mean is there any quality loss in just using all TRS?

Can anyone think of a reason not to do that?

thanks!
 
PRHunt said:
Some general advice.

Do pay for good connectors (Neutrik, Amphenol, Switchcraft, etc). Not there will necessarily be an audible difference, but good connectors will be within specifications, be structurally sound, and will last longer.

For cable, you do not need to buy esoteric stuff (I would probably avoid cheap no-name cable though). To your list, also add Canare and Belden. It is generally cheaper to buy in large lengths. Consider capacitance per meter (lower is generally better, particularly for long runs), and whether the install to be fixed in place (can use stiffer cable), or cables need to be moved about (more flexible cable might be better). Research prices, as they can vary.

If you have not soldered before, practice on cheapie stuff before using your good cable and connectors.

There are plenty of video tutorials out there.

Alternatively, have a look at Blue Jeans Cable who make stuff to order and prices don't seem too bad.
Click to expand...

Thanks man, I was checking out Redco who seems to have just about everything i need from cable to connectors to soldering kits! :)
 
This is just my personal preference, but I would use separate instrument cable and TS connectors for guitars and basses.

This is because the interaction between guitar pickups and cable is somewhat different than between other pieces of equipment. There is an audible difference between cables, and also between different lengths of the same cable. (This has a scientific basis, not just audio crack-pottery).

My view: use dedicated instrument cable.
 
I agree that you need instrument cable for guitar type patch cables. Now for high impedence line level patching I'd use the same stuff as the Low Z/ balanced wire and just float the extra conductor.
I used Beldon for my stuff and a mixture of Switchcraft and Canare connectors. There's no sonic differences (for the most part) in the wire or connectors. There's a BIG difference in reliability and ease of use and how the connectors tin and so on.
 
One other thought on cable...

Once you've found various brands that meet the right spec in terms of cores, screening, capacitance, etc., if at all possible try to FEEL the cable. In practical terms, one of the biggest differences is how the cable handles when you're coiling or uncoiling it--and, over the years, you spend a LOT of time coiling and uncoiling cable.

Beyond that, there's not much point in recommending types and suppliers since my knowledge is UK based (and I'm gradually learning the Aussie market).

Final general comment: once you get into soldering your own cables, you'll never look back. There's something soothing and restful about soldering with a cup of coffee by your side and your favourite radio station playing--a bit like knitting is for my wife. Or maybe it's the solder fumes!
 
Actually, I have another general thought on cables :D

It is well worth learning the "under - over" technique for coiling cables. Have a look here, for example:

How to Wrap Cables and Avoid a Tangled Mess | The Black and Blue

This coiling technique allows you to pull out the coiled cable straight out from end to end with no kinks or twists. It really works!

It can be real a sanity saver when you are trying to set up a rig quickly. It also help protect the inner construction of the cable.

Nothing says "audio tech street cred" like quickly coiling a cable with over-under!
 
+1 to that! (Actually plus about a million but I'm tired!)

Done properly with the over/under technique you can just grab one end of the cable and pull and it'll pay out perfectly. Or, if nobody is in the way, just hold one end and toss the cable. Again, it should pay out perfectly.

Conversely, if you see anyone coiling between hand and elbow, have a quiet snicker. They're creating a tangled mess.
 
That should be fine for XLR and TRS use. There is nothing to stop you making cables with xlr at one end and trs at the other, if that suits your particular application needs.
 
Ah yes, Davey Crockett...the famous XLR to TRS pioneer.

Just to confuse things, I tend to make up two sorts of cable. Anything that is constantly being used then coiled and put away I'll go with the sort of thing you show. However, for semi-permanent installs or very short length adaptors, I'll worry less about the handling characteristics and go with something lighter, like an FST (foil screened twin) cable.

That's just a nicety though and, if you only have a few cables to make up, a 100m reel of that stuff you showed should be fine.
 
Yup. For permanent and semi-permanent it's fine. Just as an example, I used similar for a loom of cables between my radio mic receiver rack and my mixer in a live situation.

However, don't be tempted to try it in any situation where you often need to coil it. It tangles as soon as you look at it!
 
Bobbsy said:
Yup. For permanent and semi-permanent it's fine. Just as an example, I used similar for a loom of cables between my radio mic receiver rack and my mixer in a live situation.

However, don't be tempted to try it in any situation where you often need to coil it. It tangles as soon as you look at it!
Click to expand...


Or frizzes up on a high humidity day. :p
 
Yup. With a basic multimeter (and you can get the cheapies for ten or twenty dollars--the price of that tester will buy you a decent one) you can test pin to pin and still have all the features of the multimeter for other stuff as well. FYI, I have a good multimeter in my shop and a super cheap (it was under $10 at a UK equivalent to Radio Shack) that I carry with me to gigs where light fingered borrowers are a potential worry.
 
Hot core to screen 11.4nF
Cold core to screen 11.4nF
core+core to screen 22.9nF
cold and screen to hot 11.4nF*
core to core 6.14nF
They ^ are the values I got for a 100mtr drum of decent mic cable from Farnell uk**
The meter was "calibrated" with a 15nF 400V cap out of the drawer which read 15.65nF.
It is obvious that tying cold core to screen and using the hot only gives the lowest capacitance, less than 400puff for a 3mtr lead. Paralleling the screen with the cold wire also cures the "crackle" you sometiimes get with conventional guitar leads. This dodge was told to me by our senior design engineer and brilliant guitarist and that's good enough for me. I do not buy single core screened cable for guitars any more.

Foil screened? Yes, super stuff for semi-fixed cabling. Belden V 9534 2pr shielded(~4mm OD) is excellent stuff, fine for patch leads, even mic cables for home studio use. Bandridge LC4240 is an excellent mic cable that I buy from Maplin, £1.79mtr but I am looking for drums of it! Also consider 4pr CAT cable for permanent tie lines. My Teac A3440 is on 2, 5mtr ubal' runs, in and outs of CAT5e FTP cable with a breakout box each end, zero hum.
There is an even smaller 3mm OD 1 pr foil screened and that is very useful for things like multipin D conns. Also very cheap and so great for patch bays and their ilk.

Cable building kit: Good iron, 50watts (Neutrik jack earths take some heat) small 50mm jaws, swivel table vice. IN bloody Valuable! Meter YES! But try to find one with a decently loud continuity bleep, saves SO much time. Look too at heatshrink sleeving for a proper job.

**I will dig out the order code if anyone is interested.

Dave.
 
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