Laying out a Studio - Getting down to a Plan now! Thank you John Sayer :)

Thanks for the email Enigmacode…..I’ll answer your questions here for the benefit of others who may be following this.

OK here we go 

Question 1.

Sliding glass doors may be a little more expensive than conventional windows and doors but the tradeoff is that the labour involved is considerably less and the communication factor is much higher. You can use doors and windows if you prefer.

The walls are at 12 degrees and you really don’t loose that much room space as it is in the corners.

With regard to the window in the control room I’d use it as an aircon outlet as per attached pic.

Question 2
See question 1.

Question 3
Regards air con see question 1.
Dry Wall v Timber. Timber, especialy hardwood is more reflective than drywall.

What you have to decide is what sort of acoutics you want. I gave you the two extreme options. You may wish to have two dead rooms with one maybe moreso than the other. I understand what you say about the drums but with curtains you can change the live room to deader instantly. It’s really up to you.

The Door?? Just move it closer to the dead room or put a door into the dead room instead of the live room.

The angle of the slot walls – it’s the slots that break up the room parallels. You could flatten them but they wouldn’t aborb as low a frequency and they wouldn’t break up the parallels.

Question 4.
See question 3

Question 5

All these walls can be 3” x 2”. They are not supporting walls, i.e. they don’t hold up the ceiling. That’s a saving in cost for sure. The walls can be drywall (totally sealed) on the outer side only. i.e. you have drywall on the laundry side but open frame on the studio side. Then on the studio side you then fill the gaps between the studs with insulation/foam and cover with cloth. So you in fact end up with the internal walls treated without loosing floor space.

With regard to the understair I’d access it from the laundry and have a dead wall as per the plan. The door to the laundry can be a standard solid core door with seals.

Question 6

It’s easier to install them permanently but they could be portable provided the back is sealed.The slot resonators need a sealed box to work.

I’m not sure whether you are building a wall within a wall construction or not so I can’t comment on your outer walls.

Question 7.

I’m not sure how you are meeting your ceiling. Are you lining the existing ceiling and having your wall frames meeting it or are you adding a new ceiling??

Hope all this helps

Cheers
John
 

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Hey John - thanx again - I've replied below :)

John - some of your latest comments:

"The walls are at 12 degrees and you really don’t
loose that much room space as it is in the corners."

Please see:
http://users.bignet.net/~rocknroll/question8.jpg

AND:

"Sliding glass doors may be a little more expensive
than conventional windows and doors but the tradeoff
is that the labour involved is considerably less and
the communication factor is much higher."

John - what about the effective blockage of sound?
a - 7' sliding glass door vs. a solid core wood door with a
window in it? And do I understand that this sliding glass door
can be installed in a 3" x 2" wall? As you have stated by your
comment - "All these walls can be 3" x 2"????
Actually a 2x4 wall with an air-space is a what I was planning on.

Since you weren't sure about my cieling construction,as per your
remarks:
"They are not supporting walls, i.e.
they don't hold up the ceiling"
and
"I'm not sure how you are meeting your ceiling.
Are you lining the existing ceiling and having
your wall frames meeting it or are you adding
a new ceiling?"

Can you comment on the cieling construction question?
Please see:
http://users.bignet.net/~rocknroll/question9.jpg


John-are you saying that ALL the walls dividing
the dead room, from the live room, and from
the control room only need be 2"x3" WALLS?

Because as I stated above, I was going to install
2x4 walls with an air space, and support the cieling
on top of of the dividing walls. Suppose I'll need
some type of foam gasket between the top wall plates
and the cieling joists?

Thanx again John!
Mike Fraticelli
rocknroll@bignet.net
 
OK - firstly you can use 3 x 2 studs even if you are supporting the ceiling but in your case don't you have a problem with a 6'4" ceiling??. In OZ that would be illegal.

I'd use a flexible channel like in the attached pic and seal the upper storey off and meet it with your wall plates.

The sliding glass door if properly made should give you around 33 stc which isn't bad. Other wise just use double doors and windows.

BTW go to the studios under construction site and check out my studio and the way the walls are built. They have an air gap to the outer wall but are built back to front with the drywall on the outside leaving the 3" cavity free to use for internal acoustic treatment.

http://home.locall.aunz.com/~johnsay/Studio/index.htm

cheers
John
 

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Starting to really narrow this down

Thanx John......

Well, it seems I'm trying to continue to examine ALL of your valuable input, and apply the points that will logically make MOST sense in regard to a 'HOBBY-TYPE' project studio using LIMITED funds in the attached garage of a TINY row home in Philadelphia.... :)

Just to re-cap some of the RUDIMENTARY Points:
1 - The flooring will laid in first over the existing concrete with pressure-treated 2x4 runners.(FASTENED FLAT SIDE DOWN). The old Garage door will knocked out giving me approx. 5' more in the rear. The exterior walls here, will be 2x6, with air space (STAGGERED STUDS), filled with Fiberglass. Unfortunately, the dimensions are weird....
(The inside covering within this little extension) and laid out by you as the'Live' room, or 'Drum' room, Is Yet to be determined:
http://users.bignet.net/~rocknroll/layout2fromjohn.jpg
(expense, labor, and practicality), will probably allow use of DRYWALL in both the Dead room, and the Live room......
(I do realize that drywall is NOT as BRIGHT as Timber Paneling....)

Some of your last comments:
"OK - firstly you can use 3 x 2 studs even if you are supporting the ceiling but in your case don't you have a problem with a 6'4" ceiling??. In OZ that would be illegal."

This is Not a problem here except in regard to sliding glass doors? ....... trust me :)


Now in regard to your illustration here:
https://homerecording.com/bbs/attachment.php?s=&postid=247653

Well, since the whole floor IS going over concrete as described giving me very little head space, (as indicated), I'll need to be more concerned with a 'thin vapor barrier', rather than with the channel below it, and any additional materials implied....

2- Tongue and Groove Plywood will be used over 2x4 pressured treated runners.(FASTENED DOWN FLAT SIDE DOWN). PERHAPS I COULD LAY AN ADDITIONAL SUB-FLOOR OVER THE PLYWOOD before the carpet - INCREASING THE INSULATING FACTOR? ANY COMMENT ON THAT?

3- The room divider walls will be laid on top of the floor, and the ceiling joists on top of them. The ceiling will have to be dropped down to approx. 6' 4"
Would some type of insulating gasket, or foam be useful between contacting surfaces? Between the Top Wall plates and the Ceiling joists? Between the Bottom Wall plates and the actual floor???

Would 2x4 room divider walls with air spaces inside of them be better suited for the INSIDE walls, rather than 2x3 walls? – perhaps - Because if I use # 2 conventional doors back to back, this would give me more 'JAM' space.

HOWEVER as you've indicated:
"Sliding glass doors may be a little more expensive
than conventional windows and doors but the tradeoff
is that the labour involved is considerably less and
the communication factor is much higher."
And I believe you said that it will match the sound blackage of #2 conventional doors back to back? yes? yes? yes?

If I could find a Glass door to accomdate this 'LOWER' cieling hieght, IT MIGHT AS EASY TO INSTALL A SLIDING GLASS DOOR AS OPPOSED TO #2 CONVENTIONAL DOORS DUE TO THE HASSLE OF OPENING 2 DOORS??
(Perhaps I can overcome the expense)

4-SINCE space is at a PREMIUM, take a look at this question regarding establishing irregular walls - non parallel:
http://users.bignet.net/~rocknroll/question8.jpg
Just how necessary are these SLOT RESONATORS? (indicated in Drk. Brown), and what the Heck are they anyway? Can I make them CHEAPLY?

5 - AND FINALLY THROUGH ALL THIS - It would be most IMPORTANT for me to restrict the passage of sound from the 'Dead room' to the 'Live room' (Drum room).
I WOULD LIKE TO GET GOOD CLEAN DRUM TRACKS.......

Well here's yet another summary......
Shall we dance?

As always, Comments Welcomed :)
Regards
Mike Fraticelli
rocknroll@bignet.net
 
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