I feel so stoopid.

maestro_dmc

Uses Paramedic EQ
But can someone tell me if this is a good price on Laminated Glass? :o

1/2" Lami with .060 interlay, 42"x54" :$231.00

3/8" Lami with .060 interlay, 42"x54" :$231.00

It's for my control room window.

ALSO: what about the glass thicknesses? Sound about right?(1/2" and 3/8")?
 
I think it depends on your location as to whether or not the price is right. But off the cuff it seems reasonable, although its interesting the the 3/8" stuff is the same price as the 1/2".

What are your plans for the window? I ask because I started through this myself with my studio. My plan was two sheets of 1/2" in floating frames, isolated from one another with a tapered gap between the sheets of glass. Well it started adding up pretty quickly, plus the permanent alterations to my house, so I decided to go video instead of the window.

Also, I have a 1600 square foot shop building right next to my house that I just use for storage right now. If things take off I am considering building a "room inside a room" in the shop, so the video vrs window made even more sense to me.
 
ALSO: what about the glass thicknesses? Sound about right?(1/2" and 3/8")?

Thickness isn't as important as the mass of the glass. Typically, so that it isn't a weak link in isolation, you would use the same weight per square foot as your wall (or more realistically, the same STC rating). Though if transmission isn't a problem, the thickness of the glass will not matter.
 
Thickness isn't as important as the mass of the glass. Typically, so that it isn't a weak link in isolation, you would use the same weight per square foot as your wall (or more realistically, the same STC rating). Though if transmission isn't a problem, the thickness of the glass will not matter.

Thanks everyone for the responses. To answer specifically why I chose the thicknesses I did:
I'm still in the process of choosing the thicknesses, I'm hoping for input as to how to better determine what the thickness should be.

GIK, thanks, that is what I am realizing. To avoid the weak link in isolation, clearly the glass needs to be of similar mass. I figured by going overkill on the thickness of the glass, I could AT LEAST make sure the window wouldn't be the weak link in the wall system. I've already finished building the wall, so changing it is not an option anymore.

The wall is separating my drum booth from the larger main room/control room (bass ackwards design on purpose) . The window is intended for the drummer's line of sight to other musicians in the main room/control room.

I decided early on I wanted my control room to be in the larger space.


So bottom line is, I need to figure out the mass per square foot of my wall system and choose the glass based on that?
 
This is my floor plan.

STUDIO_FLOORPLAN_ALT2.JPG

It's actually changed a bit from this. When I laid out the new walls I actually made them so that none of them would be parallel to the large wall opposite (to the north). Also the box shaped "vocal booth" isn't quite so box shaped in reality.
 
Do you know the STC ratings of the wall construction you are using? You will need the window, plus the window seal to match the STC rating. 3/4 is certainly not overkill, and I would rather go with the heavier ones to be sure.
 
Do you know the STC ratings of the wall construction you are using? You will need the window, plus the window seal to match the STC rating. 3/4 is certainly not overkill, and I would rather go with the heavier ones to be sure.


Based on the chart found at STC Ratings I will estimate my wall STC to be between 48-50. Maybe a bit higher since I also have a layer of mass loaded vinyl in there as well.
(The wall is staggered stud construction, with one layer of 5/8 drywall on one side, two layers with MLV sandwiched between on the other side, and 3" rock wool inside the wall.) Everything is caulked with acoustical sealant. Does this sound legit?

I have a call in to the company I got the quote from to get the STC rating of the glass.
 
just as a side note...

corners aren't very good for the mix station. Bass buildup and all.

other than that, looks pretty cool.
 
corners aren't very good for the mix station. Bass buildup and all.

other than that, looks pretty cool.

Thanks. I know corners are not ideal, but it's the closest thing to symmetrical LR position in the near field that I've come up with. The wall behind me is far enough back to not be too much of a problem (I hope).

What would you suggest?
 
Decor glass out of Chicago ships, they just did my laminated glass for me. It came shipped in a SERIOUS made crate! Everyone that was local was going to take 4-6 weeks, he had it to me within a week. Tom is the owner and operator.(630) 788-3333 is there number. May not hurt to just get a quote, and no, I am not affiliated with them in anyway.

I would definitely move my control area out of the corner, you may want to look at moving it to the middle of the wall left of the corner as you face it.
 
Why are you using MLV? The stuff is pretty expensive for the mass it provides. Drywall is much cheaper. It works for mass in a thin space, but usually cost is a no go for most people. Have you read into using Green Glue at all?

I agree that the corner is usually an awful spot, though I do agree your set up is about as symmetrical as you can get it. I would advise a couple things though:

Very thick trapping in that corner behind the desk. Like this: Corner Bass Tri-Trap : GIK Acoustics (floor to ceiling)
As well as a good amount of absorption on the wall behind you as it will be reflecting straight back to your position.
 
Back
Top