How to sand/file a burr.....

true-eurt

true-eurt

Maneater
...on the B string saddle...I did a search and came up with a thread about string breakage...but the guy already filed down the burrs and still had problems with his strings breaking, here are some bits of suggested cause/solution offered....

Graphite powder for $1.50 and lubing up the nut and saddles.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...entPage=search




AND THIS....

Switch over to Graphite saddles and nuts.

http://www.graphtech.com/product_dis...nd=StringSaver



AND THIS....

Upon inspection, the string had worn a groove in the saddle, which was undoubtedly wearing the string the wrong way....?

How can I tell this?





But I did not find any instructions on filing...nor what type of file to use....so I Googled found this info.

Does this sound about right to you guys...?

1) You probably have sharp burrs on your bridge saddles. Files are not fine enough to fix this, especially if strings need to slide smoothly past with vibrato action. I recommend using at least 600 grit sand paper to smooth out your saddle depressions. Fold the sandpaper around the next smallest string (use an A string to sand the low-E saddle depression) and work the paper back and forth through the depression with a light pressure. Do the same for outer edges of the depression - this is where the majority of string breaks occur. When finished, this should have a slightly rounded appearance on close examination - don't over do it. I would suggest finishing this with 1200 grit paper, if you can find it.

I don't want to spend money on new saddles, if I don't need to.

Thanks and sorry if the info is here and I just didn't type in the right question.
 
You don't say what kind of saddle you have?? This can make a difference to the approach you might take to a problem like this.

As a rule the saddle slot needs to be slightly wider than the string and should have a definite break angle as well as being free from burr or sharp edges. How you achieve this depends on the saddle. 600 grit wound round a string is one way if a bit basic but it can be all you need. A bit more info on saddle type string gauge and type may help.

I'm on my holidays so might not be posting as often as I might do. Surf here is really good right now even for us old school guys. I'll try and help if I get a chance.
 
Those saddles normally have a groove. Just make sure there is not a sharp edge on them. If there is, your sandpaper instructions would work.
 
If you wnat the real fine grit sand paper, skip the hardware store and go to pep boys, or auto zone, or whatever car parts store you have in the area. they will have the 1000, 1200, etc grit, if you really want to go that fine.
 
true-eurt said:
Sorry....it is a Samick guitar and the bridge/saddles look like this one....strings are 9's

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddles/Electric_guitar_saddles/1/Nashville_Tune-o-matic_Bridges_and_Parts/Pictures.html#details
Click to expand...
I assume the string is breaking at the saddle and not the tailblock? You need to check that the break angle is OK if its too steep it can pinch the string and make breaks more likely. Set the action and raise the tailblock until you have a slight break between 3 and 4 degrees max is what I shoot for. Run some nylon fishing gut of about the same gauge in the slot and check for scratches. If you have some you need to polish the slot. Possibly making iy wider to stop pinching the string.

On that style of saddle you can get by with using an old string with 600 grit paper wound on it to clean the slot. Try and make sure that where the string enters and leaves the slot is free from any sharp edges its there that most often cause problems with string breaks. You can also lube the slot with graphite dust (a bit of pencil lead will do the trick). If the problem persists you will need to look for other possible causes or swap the saddles about. Most of those saddles have the same size or badly notched slots. The better ones have better adjusted and cut slots. The E, B and G strings are always the most likely to break as they are closest to the limit in terms of tension.

I have a set of files for the job but for one or two small adjustments you don't need to worry about the investment. It is possible to make a set of make shift files by epoxying a piece of string to the edge of a needle file or block of wood. The cut of a string is real slow but it will get you by in a pinch and you can back it with fine 600 grit paper to speed it up. Anything finer is really over kill. As always work slowly and don't go to far. If the problem isn't fixed and you can see that the slot has been polished start to look for other possible causes. The string should make good contact along the length of the saddle slot or you could introduce buzzing problems. On the plus side the cost of messing it up in not huge as a replacement isn't going to set you back a whole lot.
 
Andy...thank you for your response.


Muttley ...thank you for taking your "off" time to reply too. I appreciate the in depth instructions. Over the course of the next few days, I will check it all out and let you guys all know the outcome. (I am in the middle of new grandbaby stuff right now and will be gone a lot...so in and out of here myself.)


Thanks to everyone who responded. I really love my Samick and the sudden B string breakage problem, has been frustrating.

True:)
 
When we get your string breakage problem fixed, then we'll work on mine. :)

My '91 MIA Strat Plus is an infamous breaker of E, B, and G strings - to the point where it is not reliable as a stage guitar.

On any other guitar I can get a lot of miles out of a set of strings, but I have broken three strings in one evening with this one (one per set - an E and two Bs if memory serves.)

I'm not a heavy-handed vibrato user, but I understand that, even with a Hipshot installed, the vibrato is moving a bit all the time, especially when you are bending strings or just generally whacking on them with gusto.

The strings are not breaking at the saddles but behind them... I think at the point where they come out of the sustain block in the vibrato....do they cross over the base plate, too, on the way to the saddles? Somewhere along the path to the saddles they must be getting abraded.

Any ideas?
 
Zaphod B said:
When we get your string breakage problem fixed, then we'll work on mine. :)

My '91 MIA Strat Plus is an infamous breaker of E, B, and G strings - to the point where it is not reliable as a stage guitar.

On any other guitar I can get a lot of miles out of a set of strings, but I have broken three strings in one evening with this one (one per set - an E and two Bs if memory serves.)

I'm not a heavy-handed vibrato user, but I understand that, even with a Hipshot installed, the vibrato is moving a bit all the time, especially when you are bending strings or just generally whacking on them with gusto.

The strings are not breaking at the saddles but behind them... I think at the point where they come out of the sustain block in the vibrato....do they cross over the base plate, too, on the way to the saddles? Somewhere along the path to the saddles they must be getting abraded.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Don't you have that trem set to 'float'? I've always set my Strats up to drop the pitch only and have never broke strings at the rate you are.
Maybe you should set up the tremolo to a non floating type and see if that cures it....:)
 
Anfontan said:
Don't you have that trem set to 'float'? I've always set my Strats up to drop the pitch only and have never broke strings at the rate you are.
Maybe you should set up the tremolo to a non floating type and see if that cures it....:)
Click to expand...
How do you set it up so that it's drop-only?
 
Zaphod B said:
How do you set it up so that it's drop-only?
Click to expand...

I usually use 4 springs and tighten the claw so it snugs the trem bridge against the body. I just can't keep the tuning steady on a floating bridge Strat, all 3 of the Strats I have are snugged down like I mentioned.
 
Anfontan said:
I usually use 4 springs and tighten the claw so it snugs the trem bridge against the body. I just can't keep the tuning steady on a floating bridge Strat, all 3 of the Strats I have are snugged down like I mentioned.
Click to expand...
Great info - thanks. :)

My Strat came standard with a Hipshot Tremsetter installed, so it's not fully floating. But the Tremsetter can only do so much, and really only provides a good, consistent "return-to-center" function. This does help with tuning, though.

I'd have to remove the Tremsetter to do what you're suggesting. Might be worth it.
 
Zaphod B said:
Great info - thanks. :)

My Strat came standard with a Hipshot Tremsetter installed, so it's not fully floating. But the Tremsetter can only do so much, and really only provides a good, consistent "return-to-center" function. This does help with tuning, though.

I'd have to remove the Tremsetter to do what you're suggesting. Might be worth it.
Click to expand...



No, I don't think you would need to remove the tremsetter-I have a tremsetter on one of my Strats and it's set up snug against the body.
 
I bought some sandpaper yesterday.(they closed Sat, before I got there)

600 grain is as fine a grain they carried. If I need a finer grain later, I'll have to find it elsewhere.

I hope this will fix the problem.

Again, thanks for all the suggestions and knowledge guys!!:)
 
Hopefully I have solved my burr problem. I "filed" the saddle and it feels smooth by feel of fingernail...I will know after a few days of playing it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top