help with my synth (Roland Juno-G)

A

allegro1650

New member
I've got a Roland Juno-G that I use at home for keyboard and drum sounds. I'm in the midst of recording tracks.

After a few years use with no problems, all of a sudden, today, the LCD display went nuts. Looked like half a checkerboard (top right/bottom left) with pixellated mush all over the rest.

I got NO MONEY. None. Zero, zip, zilch, nada, goose egg, pocket lint. Buying a replacement, or paying for repairs, is not viable for me at this time.

I need help.
 
I don't know how confident you are with this kind of thing, but the first thing I do with something like this is
power it down, open it up, and check all the ribbon/molex connectors.

I unplug and replug everything to be sure that they're all properly seated and making good contact.

Apparently there is a known problem with Juno LCD screens though.
From what I gather, the cure is to replace the screen. :(
Let's hope it's not that.
 
Molex/ribbon connectors, I can handle. I've had training to repair PC's, so I'm not completely stupid.

LCD swap? I've read much the same in other forums. Pricey, and rather detail-oriented work.

One would think Roland might consider the reputation they have to protect, and issue a recall. "Hey, we're sorry. Just bring it to your local authorized repair shop, and the fix is on us."

Instead, I'm SOL and needing to record in a few days. Prayers/good vibes needed.
 
That really sucks...apparently you're not alone. I read some things about possibly hooking up the Juno-G to a computer and controlling it from there. Would that be a possibility?
 
The Juno-G has been discontinued, and the replacement is the Juno-Gi. (On a side note, what's the lowercase 'i' thing? Roland trying to ride the Apple train? Please.)

From what I've gathered, they were doing LCD swaps, but for some it didn't solve the issue. I've also read of the ribbon cables' insulation de-laminating, which may lead to all kinds of grounding and shorting issues.

Cheap parts... when will the the world learn? Low retail price does not mean you jam up the repair pipeline with cheesy crap!
 
I did read about the cable itself being an issue for some.

At least that's something you could test for yourself, and maybe repair?

Get a meter out and test for continuity where it should be, then test where it shouldn't be!
 
Steenamaroo said:
I did read about the cable itself being an issue for some.

At least that's something you could test for yourself, and maybe repair?

Get a meter out and test for continuity where it should be, then test where it shouldn't be!
Click to expand...
What is this "test" thing you speak of? :confused:

Wish I could get inside this lil' puppy. Wifey sold the precision tools and VTVM's (analog and digital) long ago. "They're just taking up space; you'll never need that stuff again." :facepalm:
 
Any standard electrical test meter should have a continuity setting.

Touch the two wires to something metal and it will beep to tell you there's contact through the metal surface.

If you can get the ribbon cable out and it's a simple one (i don't know if it is), you should be able to test at both ends of each wire to make sure there are no breaks.

You should also test each conductor with it's neighbouring conductor to make sure there isn't continuity.

If there is between any neighbouring connectors, you'd need to separate out the insulation if possible, and tape them up or something.


Of course, ebaying for a replacement ribbon might be a cheaper quicker alternative. ;)
 
Does anyone know of a way to get the display out through the USB, to a window on my laptop?

I have the Juno-G sound editor installed, but I don't know if it mirrors the active screen on the unit itself.
 
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