Headroom amongst other things....

jameslucas

New member
I've read around a lot and my main question is how can I get more headroom in my recordings. Do I need a better mic or a better mic pre? Can I get a decent mic preamp for under $200. Should I build a tube pre and if so where can I get the schematics? How does a mic preamp change my sound, I have a behringer mixer and am using the preamps in that but I don't have much headroom with the RCA outs and I need more space in my recordings.
 
WIll a DMP3 get me a noticable cleaner sound with more headroom than a cheap mixer with pres (say a behringer 1202)
 
Here's a good explanation of headroom and why some pres have it to spare and others don't.

These pres are INTENDED to be transparent and invisible. The cleaner the gain you can achieve the more you are going to "hear" what your mic really sounds like.

http://www.davisound.com/TB10.html
 
JamesLucas,

I think you need to relax and take a deep breath, here. You're worrying too much. You learned a new word, and someone used it in context like : " X will give you bad recordings," etc. In your case X=lack of headroom.

Now you're talking a bunch of nonsense about space in your recordings and RCA outs and Behringer mixers and all that jazz. There is a lot to learn about recording -- for all of us. I've been doing this for about 18 years if you count when I got my very first cassette-based 4-track recorder, :D and I'm still learning all the time. Take it slow, and try to learn a few things at a time.

Headroom is only one of many, many concerns. Although it is something you should be mindful of, it's not going to be any sort of deciding factor in getting quality recordings. There's actually plenty of very high-end gear that lacks headroom . . . and plenty of consumer-level gear that has headroom for days and still sounds like complete dog shit.

No matter what level of gear you're working with, you still need to understand it's limits. Once you know it's limits, just make a mental note to yourself: Not to go over them. Most everything has a point at which it will start to sound nasty. Either by way of it being too loud going in (for it to handle), or too loud going out. Whatever that point is, just don't exceed it, and you'll be fine -- seriously. That's all there is to it. You, as the engineer, can even give/allow yourself more of it if you choose, so a lot of it is in your hands.

So . . . taking this step-by-step, here's your first lesson:

If you're micing a very loud source, then first of all, you need to understand what SPL handling is, and whether or not your microphone has enough of it. If you exceed your mic's limits, then it doesn't matter what kind of headroom you've given yourself anywhere else down the chain.

If it's a very loud source, just understand that you need a mic with high SPL handling. This is one of the reasons the Shure SM57 and similar dynamic mics are so popular -- they can handle pretty much whatever you throw at 'em.

Next, make sure that whatever is coming out of your mic isn't going to be too loud for the input of your mic pre to handle. Many preamps have -10 db and even -20 db pads right at the input. This is to help protect against that sort of thing.

I'll leave you with one last tip: If you're micing anything loud -- think snare drums, very loud guitar amp, etc. -- then GET YOURSELF A BUNCH OF
THESE. They will improve the headroom of everything else in your signal chain, so you're far less likely to be stressing anything out (or testing it's limits).
 
Wow! That is some VERY useful info from chessrock! Listen up!

And yeah, my pair of Shure A15AS have saved my butt many a time. Note that pads lower S/N (not a good thing), but who cares when you're in a pinch. Plus, they're VERY useful when in front of a preamp with low headroom but you want to use it on a loud source anyhow (such as on a kick or snare) because you love the way the preamp "sounds" in the application; which I do all the time.
 
Recording Engineer said:
Note that pads lower S/N (not a good thing), but who cares when you're in a pinch.

Well . . . considering that you're probably only going to use them when you're micing something really loud anyway . . . :D
 
That's true for the most part, except maybe when you have to use them on a vocal track going to a digital recorder, being cut with a very hot mic and there is not really anything else going on in the song but maybe an acoustic guitar.
 
Another thing

Chess is giving excellent advice.
Please realize (and perhaps you do) that many elements go into giving depth, dynamics and whatever you consider "headroom".
There is no single purchase that will do that.

Song and instrument arrangement have a lot to do with it. Leaving some stuff (tracks) out, bringing them in at choice times, does wonders. If from the beginning to the end of the recording you have a WALL OF SOUND LIKE THIS you can forget head room.

My opinion obviously.

Tom
 
jameslucas said:
I've read around a lot and my main question is how can I get more headroom in my recordings. Do I need a better mic or a better mic pre? Can I get a decent mic preamp for under $200. Should I build a tube pre and if so where can I get the schematics? How does a mic preamp change my sound, I have a behringer mixer and am using the preamps in that but I don't have much headroom with the RCA outs and I need more space in my recordings.
The best rule that you can use that always works is this:

the HIGHEST gain devices should ALWAYS go to the front of the soundchain. This is why you have to gain match your equipment. All pro studios do this. Look at the specs of all your equipment and figure out what each component is looking for in terms of IN/OUT gain and set them accordingly. You are stuck with whatever headroom each piece of equipment has, but, you can set the ins and outs to match the ideal gain each piece of equipment needs.

Also, make sure that if any one part in the chain is -10dbu (or +4dbu), the whole chain must match. This is the #1 mistake I find when troubleshooting equipment chains.
 
Excellent advice and explanation from Acorec.

I've noticed with a lot of the beginner-level folks people just aren't mindful of impedence-matching.

* Unbalanced outs should use unbalanced cables feeding unbalanced inputs.

* Balanced outs should have balanced cables feeding balanced inputs.

+4 to +4 and -10 to -10.

Use a DI box when going from an unbalanced out to a balanced in. Use an impedence-matching transformer (or a passive DI in reverse) when going balanced output to unbalanced input.
 
chessrock said:
Use a DI box when going from an unbalanced out to a balanced in. Use an impedence-matching transformer (or a passive DI in reverse) when going balanced output to unbalanced input.

If only it were that simple... There are a few different types of balanced circuits.

- Transformer Balanced
- Electronically Balanced aka Differential Balanced aka E-BAL
- Electronically Servo-Balanced aka Servo-Balanced aka S-BAL
- Pseudo-Balance aka Quasi-Balanced aka Single-Ended Impedance Balanced

Depending on the type of balanced circuit in a given piece of gear, that will determine how you should go about terminating gear.

Much information on all of this can be found all throughout the internet. Do a search for those terms in your favorite search engine.
 
Back
Top