Hanging Baffles

[Velvet Elvis]

Hey gang...

It's been a looong time since I've posted anything, but I wanted some opinions and help with my latest issue.

I've built the studio (I need to post pics) and am VERY happy with how it turned out. I can hear things through the ceiling (from the floor above), but NOTHING from the rooom next to the studio, which is awesome.

I'm in the process of building 2 ft x 4 ft baffles to hang on the wall. They are built out of 4 inches of OC 703 with a ported frame around the sides (front and back are open). They are then covered in canvas on the front and (believe it or not) two layers of weed cloth on the back.

Here's the question... how on earth do I hang these things without ruining the properties of my walls (2 layers of 1/2 drywall on RC)?

Any ideas would be wonderful!

Thanks gang...

Jim
Velvet Elvis

 

[jhbrandt]

Hang them on screws. Drill, insert raw plug, insert screw. As long as it is a good fit, you shouldn't damage the STL. Use a raw plug that is no longer than the two sheets of gypsum board.

Cheers,
John

 

[Velvet Elvis]

John,

Thanks... that's a good idea... any thoughts on using regular drywall anchors (the kind that self tap into the wall)? I've thought of using those and filling the holes with OSC sound caulk before putting the actual screw in there.

Jim

 

[jhbrandt]

Jim,

Personally, I don't like those self-tappers. I think careful drilling and then pushing the plastic plugs into place before installing the screws is best. You don't need any caulk as the screw will seal the hole. You can if you want to though.

Cheers,
John

 

[Brian Oshman]

Hang them on screws. Drill, insert raw plug, insert screw. As long as it is a good fit, you shouldn't damage the STL. Use a raw plug that is no longer than the two sheets of gypsum board.

Cheers,
John

A raw plug is for use in masonry, not drywall.

John,

Thanks... that's a good idea... any thoughts on using regular drywall anchors (the kind that self tap into the wall)? I've thought of using those and filling the holes with OSC sound caulk before putting the actual screw in there.

Jim

The auger type will yield a stronger hold than a raw plug if you are just relying on the drywall. 1" of drywall will support just about anything. Do a little predrilling through the first layer or the auger type will break before they go all the way through as it is designed to drill only through 1/2" of drywall before the auger bites and starts screwing in. The auger type will be much stronger in drywall.

 

[jhbrandt]

Thanks Brian! - I agree.

-- That was my intended point about the auger types... drill first. "as it is designed to drill only through 1/2" of drywall before the auger bites and starts screwing in"

Cheers,
John

 

[Velvet Elvis]

I thought the auger types were meant to break off behind the wall as the screw expands in them... I'm worried about having that big of a hole in the wall that's just filled in with plastic.

I've also got a few to hang from the ceiling, so I'm wondering if molly bolts are the way to go for those?

I do know that there are some auger drywal anchors that are metal and do NOT break open at the end when a screw is inserted. Maybe that's the way to go, so that they are a little more substantial.

As you can tell, I'm nervous about screwing up my rooms, because as of right now they work decently. Don't want to ruin how nice they are.

Thanks!
Jim

 

[jhbrandt]

Toggle bolts would be fine for the ceiling, but be sure to put plenty of butyl caulk in the hole before you tighten it up.

Cheers,
John

 

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

Speaking of augers.

 

[Velvet Elvis]

Where did you find those, Rick?

Also... do you really leave the back of your 703 completely uncovered? I've at least been putting weed cloth over mine so that the fibers can't become airborne as easily.

I like those augers though... I've been thinking of building some non-framed 2 inch baffles... and that looks like it would do the trick.

Jim

 

[Brian Oshman]

I thought the auger types were meant to break off behind the wall as the screw expands in them... I'm worried about having that big of a hole in the wall that's just filled in with plastic.

I've also got a few to hang from the ceiling, so I'm wondering if molly bolts are the way to go for those?

I do know that there are some auger drywal anchors that are metal and do NOT break open at the end when a screw is inserted. Maybe that's the way to go, so that they are a little more substantial.

As you can tell, I'm nervous about screwing up my rooms, because as of right now they work decently. Don't want to ruin how nice they are.

Thanks!
Jim

The drilling portion does not break off from the plastic auger types, it is not intended to. The screw does not expand thew auger type, it self taps into the center of it. It is not an expansion type fastener. It screws into the drywall and then the screw threads into the center of the auger.

Molly bolts are also for use in masonry. Raw plug and mollys are expansion type fasteners and work well in masonry because masonry does not expand and is a solid wall.

Drywall being hollow wall works better with augers because it uses the paper backing to spread out the tensile strength of the drywall from pulling back through. Using an expansion type fastener only relies on the gypsum portion and is a weaker connection and will pull out under load.

The auger type are a coarse thread and doesn't really make that big of a hole and is really fully airtight with a screw in place.

Toggle bolts are another option but it does require a large hole to insert the butterfly through the drywall. It would not be airtight without caulk. The auger will work the best for your application. 'Glass panels are light anyway. Augers will hold 50# a piece on a vertical wall, so they will be less on a horizontal ceiling but will have plenty of holding power for your application, will not loosen from vibration, and will be airtight.