I just googled and there's a place called "Guitar Repair of Tampa Bay" that's in Tampa that has a lot of good reviews. I'd give them a call.I was just checking out GC's setup services on their website, then I looked for reviews and found zero good reviews. My local GC has drastically reduced it's number of employees and their "repair center" has been reduced to a small counter in the main room and is rarely 'manned'. I think I'd be taking my chances on getting a good setup there. If a new set of strings helps my intonation even a little bit I think I'll try setting the string height at the bridge myself - see how far that gets me.
We could probably just talk you through it because a proper setup is super easy so long as there's nothing wrong (warps, ramping, etc) with the neck itself.
I just googled and there's a place called "Guitar Repair of Tampa Bay" that's in Tampa that has a lot of good reviews. I'd give them a call...
No guitar center setups please. Do you want a minimum wage, don't know shit 'tech' touching your stuff????
Anyone good will be on their own or working for a good music shop
spantini;4494214? I located an independent guy about 12 miles from me. I emailed with the particulars asking if he'll do the work and how much - [/QUOTE said:Don't be scared off if whoever you take it to recommends doing a new nut and a fret dress
First off you converted a righty to a lefty. I heard no mention of doing a proper nut. And your original is just cheap plastic.
Good intonation depends on a few factors. Proper nut, good strings, neck adjusted properly and the actual position of the saddles.
However the most important factor that people overlook, is having the frets leveled and properly crowned. This puts the highest point of the fret dead center. If the crown is off due to wear and or lousy fret work your note will never be quite right. The string will start vibrating before or after the fret slot. You want it dead center.
On any fretless instruments intonation is in the hands of the player, on a fretted instrument your notes are each individual fret. With modern cnc manufacturing, the slots are pretty accurate. Discrepancies occur in the final dressing of the frets and how they wear.
Don't be scared off if whoever you take it to recommends doing a new nut and a fret dress
First off you converted a righty to a lefty. I heard no mention of doing a proper nut. And your original is just cheap plastic.
Good intonation depends on a few factors. Proper nut, good strings, neck adjusted properly and the actual position of the saddles.
However the most important factor that people overlook, is having the frets leveled and properly crowned. This puts the highest point of the fret dead center. If the crown is off due to wear and or lousy fret work your note will never be quite right. The string will start vibrating before or after the fret slot. You want it dead center.
On any fretless instruments intonation is in the hands of the player, on a fretted instrument your notes are each individual fret. With modern cnc manufacturing, the slots are pretty accurate. Discrepancies occur in the final dressing of the frets and how they wear.
Don't be scared off if whoever you take it to recommends doing a new nut and a fret dress... I heard no mention of doing a proper nut. And your original is just cheap plastic.
Good intonation depends on a few factors. Proper nut, good strings, neck adjusted properly and the actual position of the saddles.
However the most important factor that people overlook, is having the frets leveled and properly crowned. This puts the highest point of the fret dead center. If the crown is off due to wear and or lousy fret work your note will never be quite right. The string will start vibrating before or after the fret slot. You want it dead center.
On any fretless instruments intonation is in the hands of the player, on a fretted instrument your notes are each individual fret. With modern cnc manufacturing, the slots are pretty accurate. Discrepancies occur in the final dressing of the frets and how they wear.
Thanks again. Now.. mine is the MIM Classic 50's Strat, when buying the USA Strat are these issues with lower quality and workmanship not a problem? Is that what the extra $500-$1000 gets you?
I agree though that the setup and the person playing it matter most.
Anyway, I hope that last post didn't come off as snobby or bashing cheap guitars.