FxCK!!! Just bollocksed my nut :|

Mish

Mish

New member
Not that nut, the one on the headstock.

It started today when I bought a 60-gauge low-E string. First it wouldn't fit into my low-e nut-slot, so I had to use a file and cut abit a space for it.

And when I started to tune the string, a small piece of the nut just flew into air :eek:


Damn Peavey for making such crap unreliable nuts. I superglued it and I'm now waiting for it to harden, but I somehow doubt it would last me more than 30 seconds.

Can the nut be replaced at all :confused:?
 
Yes, a new nut can be made. If you get it made by a good shop, it will be better. In my shop it runs about $100, plus the bone blank for the nut. Muttley could better advise about shops in that part of the world than I.


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
Man, a hundret bucks! Knowing our prices in the UK it would easily be a hundret quid. I might as well think of getting a new guitar in this case :(

I tested my guitar last night after the clue had hardned, and it held on for half an hour without breaking again. It seems now I can only have my fingers crossed, or start saving for a new axe.
 
If you broke the side of the nut off while tightening the string, then you did not file the slot wide enough. Nut replacement is pretty easy if you have any handy man skills at all. Use a thin knife blade to get in between the nut and the bottom of the slot and gently pry it loose - don't lose patience. Get a new pre-slotted nut. Check the height of the new nut vs the old one. If it is higher, sand the bottom to the correct height. If lower, you'll need to shim it up. Even better - if you have access to a music store, take the old one with you and match it to a new one. One side of the new nut may also need to be sanded if it is too thick to fit the slot. It should fit snugly, but not forcibly. Glue the new nut down with a good grade of wood glue like Titebond - do not use super glue or epoxy - you won't be able to get the nut out again. For widening the nut slot for the .060" string - if you have access to a small grinder like a Dremel tool, go to an auto parts store and buy a .065" feeler gage. Use a small ginding wheel to cut square slots about 3/16" deep and 3/16" apart on one side of the feeler gage. Use this as a "saw" to widen the nut slot.
 
ausrock said:
Sorry, but I have to wonder why the fook you would want to put a 60 gauge on anyway.

:cool:
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My guess is downtuned Metal?...


If the guit isn't worth the some 50 quid fee for the nut, it probably won't be any worse if you do it yourself.. Ofcourse, a pro makes better, but a make-do nut isn't rocket science if the guitar is a cheapo.. blanks aren't too expensive, then just hours of filing.:D
 
Topcat53 said:
If you broke the side of the nut off while tightening the string, then you did not file the slot wide enough. Nut replacement is pretty easy if you have any handy man skills at all. Use a thin knife blade to get in between the nut and the bottom of the slot and gently pry it loose - don't lose patience. Get a new pre-slotted nut. Check the height of the new nut vs the old one. If it is higher, sand the bottom to the correct height. If lower, you'll need to shim it up. Even better - if you have access to a music store, take the old one with you and match it to a new one. One side of the new nut may also need to be sanded if it is too thick to fit the slot. It should fit snugly, but not forcibly. Glue the new nut down with a good grade of wood glue like Titebond - do not use super glue or epoxy - you won't be able to get the nut out again. For widening the nut slot for the .060" string - if you have access to a small grinder like a Dremel tool, go to an auto parts store and buy a .065" feeler gage. Use a small ginding wheel to cut square slots about 3/16" deep and 3/16" apart on one side of the feeler gage. Use this as a "saw" to widen the nut slot.
Click to expand...

Oh dear, oh dear,...:rolleyes:
 
Jouni said:
My guess is downtuned Metal?...


If the guit isn't worth the some 50 quid fee for the nut, it probably won't be any worse if you do it yourself.. Ofcourse, a pro makes better, but a make-do nut isn't rocket science if the guitar is a cheapo.. blanks aren't too expensive, then just hours of filing.:D
Click to expand...

The superglued plastic seems to still do the job - but you've got a point. I work in a craft store anyway, so getting basswood blanks wouldn't be a problem at all (and I'm used to hours of filing anyway - years of woodwork and modeling for ya :D ) . Thanks mate

ausrock said:
Sorry, but I have to wonder why the fook you would want to put a 60 gauge on anyway.

:cool:
Click to expand...

Yeah like Jouni said - drop-tuning. Ever since I started my "WTF? Alternative tuning" thread I wrote a piece in drop-D out of curiosity, and I realized what I've been missing out on. I wanna try drop-C now, and it just was not possible with my standart 38-gauge low-E. It just wobbles like a fish if you go anywhere that low.
 
Mish said:
Yeah like Jouni said - drop-tuning. Ever since I started my "WTF? Alternative tuning" thread I wrote a piece in drop-D out of curiosity, and I realized what I've been missing out on. I wanna try drop-C now, and it just was not possible with my standart 38-gauge low-E. It just wobbles like a fish if you go anywhere that low.
Click to expand...
Drop-C tuning....:cool:

Think early Black Sabbath... Sweet Leaf. ;)
 
Mish said:
Yeah like Jouni said - drop-tuning. Ever since I started my "WTF? Alternative tuning" thread I wrote a piece in drop-D out of curiosity, and I realized what I've been missing out on. I wanna try drop-C now, and it just was not possible with my standart 38-gauge low-E. It just wobbles like a fish if you go anywhere that low.
Click to expand...

As someone who always has both electrics and acoustics tuned down to low C for the "crafty" or "new standard" tuning, may I recommend .058" gauge strings? That is considered standard in the "crafty" world. You may find that anything on a 25" scale larger than .059 doesn't sound or play well due to stiffness of the string on that short of a scale. On the acoustic side, intonation becomes a problem with those heavier gauges on a 25" scale and you will probably need some custom set up work on the sixth string.

Better than going beyond that gauge is either to use a baritone guitar with a scale between 27" and 29" so you can easily tune down to C or even down to A or B, or to have a guitar made with fanned frets and a scale that varies from 25" to 27" if you want the expanded range of the "crafty" tuning.

Good luck,

Otto
 
Actually I changed the string to 052 gauge after reading your post - and for one thing, it's alot easier to play (man, pinch harmonics.. it was nearly impossible to hit those on the 060 gauge one :eek: ) . Another thing I noticed straight away about either of those strings - it keeps the tone more under control, I suppose it's because they resonance less comparing to 038 gauge.

I'm not sure about 7-string axes, never played any, and plus all guitarists from my favorite bands all play 6-strings.
 
Forgive me. I did not read the posts as of yet; however the title caused me to "toss " my breakfast. I regret that I have nothing to offer as to the technical solution. My advice, listen to the pro's. Thanks for the eggs on computer. W.
 
muttley600 said:
I wish I had your overhead.;)
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what overhead:confused:... 4 bucks for a bone blank plus an hour (at most)labor


Light said:
My shop rate is $90 an hour. That's what it costs. My customers are never dissatisfied.
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WOW!:eek: the rate here is $50.00 HR and there is competetion because we are located smack dab in-between Atlanta and Nashville lots of guitar sales and service around here so ya i have to satisfy the customet so they come back



Light said:
Pre-slotted nuts suck. Get it done right.
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