First Electric Guitar: Dumb Questions

T

Tom Overthere

Member
I've been playing acoustic guitar for a long time. I just received my new electric guitar and it is my first. I REALLY like it, but I have two questions (so far).

The guitar has 2 humbucker pickups, 2 volume knobs, 1 tone knob and a 3-way switch. The switch chooses bridge pickup or both pickups or neck pickup.

QUESTION 1: With the 3-way switch at the center both-pickups position, turning either volume control down to zero mutes both pickups. So if I turn the volume knob for the bridge pickup to zero, there is no sound from either pickup. Is that the way it's supposed to work? If so, what's the idea behind it?


This thing has a GREAT low action. I think the strings are probably .010 - .046". There's a light BUZZ on strings A, D, G when fretting near the nut, frets 1, 2 and 3.

QUESTION 2: I don't know whether this buzz is something to be addressed by turning the neck's truss rod, or by raising the bridge slightly. I don't want to raise the action if I can avoid it.

The guitar did not come with an owner's manual, so I need advice. And if there's a particularly good online tutorial for learning to set up and maintain an electric guitar, please point me in that direction.

Thanks
 
Buzzing could be caused by a number of issues - uneven frets, bridge too low, neck adjustment. Unless you know what you are doing, you should let a professional do the setup for you. The volume control things does not sound correct - by turning one volume control, is the sound from that pickup affected at all when you have the selector in the middle? In other words can you turn the lead pickup down halfway and leave the rhythm pickup at full volume?
 
There are a variety of wiring schemes. Do a Google search for that particular make and model and then compare it with others. Les Pauls do that - both volume pots have to be on at least a little.

Fret buzz is not an issue if you can't hear it through the amp. If you can hear it start by raising the bridge.
 
being it is only affecting the A, D, and G strings I would suspect a less than perfect nut contour. What kind of bride do you have? Most bridges let you adjust individual saddle height. If you don't know what any of this means...take it to a pro.
 
it's not gonna be the nut if the buzz is also on several frets. The nut will only be a cause of buzzing on open strings.

Yes, it is normal to have no sound at all in the middle selector position if you turn one of the pickups volume all the way off.
There are ways to have it not work like that but most gits with 2 volumes/2tones/2 pickups will behave like that.
 
mjbphotos said:
The volume control things does not sound correct - by turning one volume control, is the sound from that pickup affected at all when you have the selector in the middle? In other words can you turn the lead pickup down halfway and leave the rhythm pickup at full volume?
Click to expand...
I can turn the bridge pickup down halfway and leave the neck pickup at full volume. and vice versa.

Here's the situation:
At the center switch position (both pickups selected) both volume controls seem to work as expected. BUT, if I turn EITHER volume contol down to zero, BOTH pickups are entirely muted.

SEE POSTS BELOW
 
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Sky Blue Lou said:
Les Pauls do that - both volume pots have to be on at least a little.
Click to expand...
Thanks, SBL. It's a Les Paul pattern guitar, so that's probably the situation. Do you know WHY they do that?

Sky Blue Lou said:
Fret buzz is not an issue if you can't hear it through the amp. If you can hear it start by raising the bridge.
Click to expand...
I don't have an amp. I bought this guitar as a "signal generator" :D for GuitarRig4 amp simulator software. But yes, I can hear the buzz a little through the software. The action is soooo low and smooth I just hate raise it at the bridge...

Been researching online and found this reference at FRETS.COM that suggests that fret buzz from the nut to the 5th or 7th fret is often an indication of not enough neck relief (not enough forward bow).

CAN YOU GUYS RECOMMEND A GOOD TUTORIAL ON DIY TRUSS ROD ADJUSTING?
 
Murdersgalore said:
being it is only affecting the A, D, and G strings I would suspect a less than perfect nut contour. What kind of bride do you have? Most bridges let you adjust individual saddle height. If you don't know what any of this means...take it to a pro.
Click to expand...
It has a Tune-O-Matic bridge which only allows to-and-fro saddle adjustments for intonation. No adjustment for individual saddle height (I wish). Does anybody make a replacement T.O.M. bridge that does enable adjustment of individual saddle heights?
 
Tom Overthere said:
Thanks, SBL. It's a Les Paul pattern guitar, so that's probably the situation. Do you know WHY they do that?
Click to expand...
It's the way they are wired. :p

I don't know the technical, schematic-type reason why but if you want to turn one off it's simpler to use the switch so having them wired like that makes no difference.
 
Lt. Bob said:
it's not gonna be the nut if the buzz is also on several frets. The nut will only be a cause of buzzing on open strings.
Click to expand...
I read you, LT. I'm thinking I need to introduce a bit of neck relief (so it bows toward the front) per this FRETS.COM info (see the "Buss in low frets only" heading near end of page).


Lt. Bob said:
Yes, it is normal to have no sound at all in the middle selector position if you turn one of the pickups volume all the way off. There are ways to have it not work like that but most gits with 2 volumes/2tones/2 pickups will behave like that.
Click to expand...
I'm glad to know that. I bought this guitar online and only have 7 days to return it. I REALLY like it though, and knowing this arrangement is normal is all I needed.

After thinking it over: Turning one pickup all the way down while leaving the other on is the same as SWITCH selecting from one pickup or the other. In center switch position, maybe muting both when zeroing either pu is a convenience making it easy/simple to silence the guitar when needed...
 
Tom Overthere said:
After thinking it over: Turning one pickup all the way down while leaving the other on is the same as SWITCH selecting from one pickup or the other. In center switch position, maybe muting both when zeroing either pu is a convenience making it easy/simple to silence the guitar when needed...
Click to expand...

yeah, once you get used to it there's no problem.
But I doubt it was intended. It's just an interaction between the two p'up/circuits.
For instance, if you plug 2 guitars into a single channel ..... like say, the two jacks in a Fender deluxe Reverb, they'll behave the same way. If you turn one guitar all the way off the other will be silent too.
 
If you poke around there's bunches of information on the web about the multitude of ways you can rewire the various models of guitar out there. I believe it's pretty easy (like resoldering 2, or maybe 4 joins) to change the wiring of a Les Paul so it doesn't have the effect you described. Almost anything you do will have other effects also, which may be subtle or unexpected. I get the impression that, once people start fooling around in there, they wind up changing capacitor values, inserting new switches and engaging in all sorts of time- and attention-consuming quests for holy grail tones.

As you note, the one-volume-at-zero behavior isn't particularly problematic, and could even be helpful.

FWIW: vintage Les Pauls were wired differently, and didn't have this behavior.

On the fret-buzz issue, I agree with the prior post (either exactly or approximately): either decide you can live with it, or take it to a qualified luthier and let him fool around with the neck relief. I guess that does depend on how valuable the guitar is. If it were mine and were cheap enough, I might fool with it myself. If it were a vintage Les Paul (which it apparently isn't), I'd be hesitant even to change the strings myself.
 
Certainly no "vintage Les Paul" :D
I think it's a simple case of introducing a little bit of needed neck relief. If I can find FOOL PROOF instructions that explain which direction to turn the rod, etc, I'll give it a go. But only after I take time to determine the extent of bow/relief present (if any). Thanks.
 
Tom Overthere said:
Certainly no "vintage Les Paul" :D
I think it's a simple case of introducing a little bit of needed neck relief. If I can find FOOL PROOF instructions that explain which direction to turn the rod, etc, I'll give it a go. But only after I take time to determine the extent of bow/relief present (if any). Thanks.
Click to expand...
well .... to put a little relief in it you're gonna turn the rod the same way as if you were loosening a screw ..... counter-clockwise. It's gonna be an allen wrench most likely although it might use a socket.

If it were me I'd have no hesitation ..... take off the truus rod cover ..... figure out what kind of wrench fits it ..... then turn the thing 1/4 turn counter clockwise and then let it sit for a week or two. Keep playing it and see how it settles out .... if the buzz disappears then you're done.
It's not impossible that, in time, even just turning it 1/4 turn was too much and you'll need to tighten it back up a little bit ...... but 1/4 turn would likely be a good starting place because it would let the neck settle in and bow a little tiny bit which is what relief is.
 
See image below. I drew in a truss rod because I will not remove the cover plate until I'm 100% sure this one's a keeper.

IS THE FOLLOWING CORRECT?

Looking down on the peg head from above:

Turn the the truss rod to the LEFT to ADD Neck Relief, meaning to cause the neck to become CONCAVE/BOWED relative to the strings.

Turn the the truss rod to the RIGHT to REDUCE Neck Relief, meaning to cause the neck to become FLATTER relative to the strings.

truss_rod_direction.jpg
 
correct ...... all the truss rod is, is a rod threaded at one end, that's glued into a channel in the neck that's a long curved-away-from-the-fretboard shape.

So when you tighten it, the rod presses against the curved inset and tries to straighten it out which makes the neck bend in that direction (less relief).

So ..... personally I don't look at it from the increase/decrease relief point of view although that's correct ..... but personally I have always looked at it more as a countereffect to the inevitable bowing (too much relief) that necks get over time.
But your diagram is exactly right.

truss rod adjustment is simply not the terror-filled, "gonna destroy yer guitar" thing that many fear it to be.
The KEY thing is to only turn it a small amount at a time and remember how much you turned it so you can put it back where it was if need be.
For instance, the other day I adjusted the truss rod on my big money custom git. I only turned it about 1/8th turn and that MIGHT have been a bit too much. I'm letting it settle for a month or so before I decide if I need to back it off or not. Sometimes it's obvious right away but sometimes you have to wait and see for a while.

Anyway ..... do NOT turn it more than 1/4 turn ..... play it a week or two and see how it is. Then tweak it (if neccessary) from there. Since you're wanting to ADD relief, it's definitely gonna take a little time for the neck to completely settle in so don't get impatient and loosen the crap out of the rod.
PLUS remember that it's possible that fret issues could be your buzzing problems so don't just assume you need to crank that rod if the buzzing is still there after a week or two.

As long as you understand that small truss rod adjustments are plenty and large ones are to damned much! :D .... you'll be fine.
You won't damage your ax and you will learn a valuable bit of knowledge that every git slinger should know.

It's really gonna be ok.
:D:D:D
 
I had a cheap bass and I got aggressive with the truss rod on it to try to alleviate the insane amount of fret buzz on it. I got carried away and now its just for decoration.
 
Tadpui ==
Man, I'd get rid of that bass. Assuming you hung your "decoration" :D on the wall, that thing's reminding you every time you walk into the room. Bad Feng Shui :eek:


LT B ==
Thanks for the detailed lesson. You're right, I'm pretty leering of messin' 'bout wit de truss rod. Tried it once years ago. Cranked it A LOT(!) and saw no change. Lost faith in the whole concept. :D But now I'm ready to try again, if need be.

Actually, this guitar got FedExed to me (arrived Thurday) from another part of the country where I think it's already pretty warm. In my locale, temps are still just breaking into the 50s with near freezing at night. So much for the Global Warming HOAX.

Based on the time frames you describe, I think I owe this guitar a chance to acclimate here for at least another week before I decide to "operate". :D

Thanks for much needed perspective.
 
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