Experienced Advice Requested: Rack Space Computer Case Noise Isolation Cabinet

Twinhit

You gotta speak up!
I posted this in the rack forum but got no response so... in case I posted in the wrong forum I am posting it here.



Rack%20Space%20Computer%20Isolation%20Cabinet.jpg



I am working on a design to reduce noise caused by the computer's power supply and case fans which are amplified via the metal case.

The cases are as you see in the picture above. They are standard 19" 4U computer cases with a front intake behind the door on the left and power supply exhaust in the rear as typical.

What is prompting me to consider this project is that the fan induced noise is about -30dB on my peakmeter. A pair of 3/4" laminated boards sitting directly in front of the fan only reduces noise at best by -5 dB.
The greater noise is generated through the power supply exhaust fan. bouncing off the wall behind the desk upon which the case sits on.


The graphic drawing, above omits the planned front door which would have a foam panel of some sort on the inside and perhaps a magnetic strip as used on a refridgerator door. Some early tests on an actual refridgerator had demonstrated a dramatic noise reduction - my guess is something to the tune of as much as 40-50 dB reduction. but that's only a guess. (Wish I had dB/Freq meter)

This initial drawing attempts to illustrate the Bank Vault stepped-panel-like design
You will notice between the inner and outer box a 1.5" polyethelene foam gasket.
Initial thoughts were to incorporate solid foam panels that run the depth of the chassis, however, I am suspecting this "might" not be necessary and airspace or a different product may improve on the isolation.

The door would be removeable for convenience' sake. Only time the door would actually be needed is when recording in the same room.

Ventilation is achieved by means of ducted air which travels from the rear of the cabinet to the front between the upper and lower computer cases. (What appears to be blank plate is open space) Auxillary cabinet fans and ducting to be ironed out. I am visualizing an intake and exhaust port which are exceptionally large with some sort of "muffler" like design incorporated in.

I've been researching ways to quiet down the computer, the source of the noise with
some ideas coming to mind from inspiration of studio and industrial soundproofing and acoustics treatment. But boy that's an awful lot of reading and disciphering.

It would seem to me that I might be better off using less surface contact than to use inner box size foam panels as the substrate for the case cabinet (inner box).
Ie less foot print = less mechanical vibration transfer.

Would anyone in the know have any ideas or suggestions??
 
How about fiberglass insulation between the interior and exterior boxes? If you're after isolation of the interior box, think about suspension with bungee cords. Its the same way a microphone is suspended in a mount. Use a zig sag of bungee cord on all four sides of the front and the back to suspend the inside box, as slack as you can get away with.

Are your interface cards and so forth in these units/ can you physically separate them from the studio space itself? That might be the best way of all, as well as a cheap solution.
 
I like the idea of server rack cases I plan on using them to have a computer on my amp rack so I can run vst guitar effects live. However for sound isolation without thermal issues there are a few computer upgrades that will drop your noise significantly

1. Fanless PSU. These work great and make a BIG difference just make sure you have adequate case circulation.

2. Low noise case fans. These fans run with noises as low as 6dbA
Noiseblocker NB-Multiframe M8-S1 80mm x 25mm Ultra Silent Fan - 1200 RPM - 6 dBA - FrozenCPU.com

3. A fan controller. These unit fit into a 5.25" CD drive bay and some show you computer temperatures from multiple locations and many also have card reader and multiple audio/usb/firewire ports on them giving you quick front access. You can adjust your fan speeds to get a better balance between circulation and noise.

4. A low noise or fanless CPU cooler. Outside of your psu the most noise you hear from your computer is you heatsink fan on your cpu when these things spin up they make a load of noise. They are usually built by amd or intel a dime a dozen with the sole purpose of being overkill to cover there asses. An aftermarket unit will run your cpu cooler and quieter.

5. Hard drive gaskets. Unless your running a solid state drive. That hard drive makes a bit of vibration and a 4$ gasket goes a long way

If you bounce around these site and use the user feedback you can get a great quiet system fairly cheap.
Xoxide.com
Frozencpu.com
Newegg.com

That being said I have used these resources and my rig is silent and its currently in a old dell case I had sitting around and running 400mhz overclocked
 
I like the idea but I'd be worried about heat in that kind of situation.

Heat is something I am concerned about too and will address. Imagine one duct (intake) that comes up and behind the case and another duct aligned with the exhaust fans
routing the air out. The fans would be well away from the rear exterior panel and may incorporate a baffle design. Not sure as yet as this image is still early rough sketch phase
and obviously doesn't illustrate the rear view. I may do a rear coarse sketch for idea presentation.

Thanks for your input. :)
 
I think Mr. Sheehan nailed it. Silencing computers is not that big a deal anymore with the right components and certainly easier than building an iso-box. Either that or what Tree said - get extensions and move it out of the space.


lou
 
I think Mr. Sheehan nailed it. Silencing computers is not that big a deal anymore with the right components and certainly easier than building an iso-box. Either that or what Tree said - get extensions and move it out of the space.


lou

I think they're and you are right too about it not being as big an issue. What I can do is to try the methods suggested and if THAT doesn't work, then the extensions a alternate placement would be a consideration.
The box makes sense but then there really is an awful lot of work involved to build it..

Out of the way and running monitor keyboard and mouse might work however there is the convenience issue.
I thought about coming up with a remote box which would allow the CDROM or DVD/CD-R player to be remotely
mounted along with on/off and HD activitity LEDs in the front. Find a place to put that and along with the extensions, I could have the computer on the next floor for all I cared. I am curious about distance limitations, if any.
Has anyone ever seen or heard of a remote chassis for doing this very thing?????
 
I like the idea of server rack cases I plan on using them to have a computer on my amp rack so I can run vst guitar effects live. However for sound isolation without thermal issues there are a few computer upgrades that will drop your noise significantly

1. Fanless PSU. These work great and make a BIG difference just make sure you have adequate case circulation.

2. Low noise case fans. These fans run with noises as low as 6dbA
Noiseblocker NB-Multiframe M8-S1 80mm x 25mm Ultra Silent Fan - 1200 RPM - 6 dBA - FrozenCPU.com

3. A fan controller. These unit fit into a 5.25" CD drive bay and some show you computer temperatures from multiple locations and many also have card reader and multiple audio/usb/firewire ports on them giving you quick front access. You can adjust your fan speeds to get a better balance between circulation and noise.

4. A low noise or fanless CPU cooler. Outside of your psu the most noise you hear from your computer is you heatsink fan on your cpu when these things spin up they make a load of noise. They are usually built by amd or intel a dime a dozen with the sole purpose of being overkill to cover there asses. An aftermarket unit will run your cpu cooler and quieter.

5. Hard drive gaskets. Unless your running a solid state drive. That hard drive makes a bit of vibration and a 4$ gasket goes a long way

If you bounce around these site and use the user feedback you can get a great quiet system fairly cheap.
Xoxide.com
Frozencpu.com
Newegg.com

That being said I have used these resources and my rig is silent and its currently in a old dell case I had sitting around and running 400mhz overclocked

Thank you John, these are some of the very things I looked at during my research. Your second opinion only reinforces my thought direction.
 
How about fiberglass insulation between the interior and exterior boxes? If you're after isolation of the interior box, think about suspension with bungee cords. Its the same way a microphone is suspended in a mount. Use a zig sag of bungee cord on all four sides of the front and the back to suspend the inside box, as slack as you can get away with.

Are your interface cards and so forth in these units/ can you physically separate them from the studio space itself? That might be the best way of all, as well as a cheap solution.


Funny you should mention bungee chords. I thought of that too. In fact I even likened the concept as being the same as with mic shockmount.

Another idea would be to use bed springs. I did this with my Technics SL1200 MKII and I can jump up and down and that needle don't even care anymore. Maybe I should find an grossly obese woman to jump up and down and see if the needles cares. LOL


Thanks for your input.
 
I think they're and you are right too about it not being as big an issue. What I can do is to try the methods suggested and if THAT doesn't work, then the extensions a alternate placement would be a consideration.
The box makes sense but then there really is an awful lot of work involved to build it..

Out of the way and running monitor keyboard and mouse might work however there is the convenience issue.
I thought about coming up with a remote box which would allow the CDROM or DVD/CD-R player to be remotely
mounted along with on/off and HD activitity LEDs in the front. Find a place to put that and along with the extensions, I could have the computer on the next floor for all I cared. I am curious about distance limitations, if any.
Has anyone ever seen or heard of a remote chassis for doing this very thing?????

Standard for maximum external SATA cables is 2 meters.
Standard for maximum Usb and Usb 2.0 is 5 meters.

This may work for what I understood you were trying to do
Newegg.com - Thermaltake BlacX Duet ABS Plastic 2.5" & 3.5" Black USB2.0 & eSATA Dual Hard Drives Docking Station
Just need to mod it a bit to install power button and the activity leds.
 
Standard for maximum external SATA cables is 2 meters.
Standard for maximum Usb and Usb 2.0 is 5 meters.

This may work for what I understood you were trying to do
Newegg.com - Thermaltake BlacX Duet ABS Plastic 2.5" & 3.5" Black USB2.0 & eSATA Dual Hard Drives Docking Station
Just need to mod it a bit to install power button and the activity leds.

While the Thermaltake product is interesting from a storage perspective, that's not quite what I am talking about.

My idea would be to fabricate a 2U (maybe 3U) rack case of X depth dimensions. The face would be cut out and two 5" drive slots installed side by side. Then
install 4 LED lights
2 red for HD activity
2 green or ?? color for power on indication,
2 momentary-on switches to turn computers on.
2 momentary "reset" switches to to reset the computers.
2 USB ports for each computer
D-sub sockets for connecting the pair of ROM drives
Audio I/O

Floppy drives are hardly used any more from a high use perspective - ie compared to a CD/DVD or Flash Drive, so they can remain
in the computer case as normal.

Other peripherals as normally hooked up

The distance limitation is what concerns me. Surely, we can do better than those figures.
Anyway, the whole point is that I could access the drives and power/reset controls from arms length
and be able to isolate the noise by means of the cabinet already illustrated above. An optional accessory, if you will.
With all the marvels of computing and all the industries it has laid to waste, I am suprised no one has come out
with a computer remote control station, wired or not.

I guess I'll draw a picture for this apparatus.
 
How odd. It just so happens....

Well, for those of you might be familiar with my "ongoing" console mod saga, and of you who arn't. In any event, I thought I might post my latest mod. In reality, I just finished planning, and after almost 6 months researching and purchasing my new computer components( 2 computers with i7/975 on x58 platforms) it came to my immediate attention I now had to deal with some SERIOUS heat problems to solve. So, here is my solution.

Ok, at the risk of receiving a bunch of rolling eyes, here is what I did for my own little home studio control room. However, a little explanation may be in order.

First, this is an enclosure that resides under my mixer in a DIY console that has evolved over 15 years, and has received many many mod's for equipment upgrades. When I first built this enclosure, the only computers available were good ole P4's, which didn't require as much cooling capacity as current Intel CPUs etc.

Recently, I was able to aquire the components to upgrade both of my computers to i7/x58 platforms with upgraded /memory/PSU's and GPU's cards. One of my computers is a Graphics Rendering/Folding computer, that will run 24/7.

Unfortunately, after assembling one with a i7-975 and testing it, I discovered the CPU' temperature was close to its maximum running temp..even with a high end CPU cooler and 5 fans. Well, since I had researched Computer cases to find one that allowed the height for a high end cooler, I discovered a Thermaltake Sonata case size was perfect for modding into a rack mount. However, since the case would be horizontal, and enclosed, the side panel vent that allowed air to be pulled in by the CPU cooler, would now be useless. So, I decided to see exactly what I had to do to provide a continuous supply of rapidly moving air. After a brief research on Axial fans, I had an idea to utilize a couple of Crossflow squirrel cage fans, in a Negative airpressure configuration. Since these fans run at 3000 rpm, I was sure they would suck enough air from the supply vents to cool everything. It was only a matter of the physical layout of existing enclosure components the determined the actual location of the fans.

As I only had 2 or 3 options, I finally decided to reverse the normal air intake from the front, to the rear of the case. This allowed airflow through most of the components...at least in theory. But, DIY stuff is always that way anyway...so what the hell. Ok, second thing is the access to the HD's. I decided that since I was going to use EXTERNAL DVD drives under my wrist pad, and since I like to see the status LED's on the motherboard, I could simply remove the plastic fronts on the Thermaltake cases, and mod the front framing so only 3 HD's needed support. This meant I could remove all the existing drive cages, and reconfigure a custom solution for 3 HD's in a horizontal position, leaving the rest of the front open, and space for air movement via the Crossflow fan below. It didn't matter the front was open as I already had 2 Smoked Plex doors with seals anyway. But I still had to work out the air supply ducts and exhaust manifolds, After a few days working in Sketchup, it finally was done. So, here is the idea for what its worth. Btw, I got 2 heavy duty Crossflow fans on ebay for $15!! Everything else is DIY using materials in my shop.

Here is an old pic of my existing console with the enclosure below before moddifications. I think the rest is self explanitory, but ask if you want to know something. Anyway, hope this gives a few ideas to other people. There's always more than one way to skin a cat.



is.php


is.php




is.php


is.php


is.php


is.php


is.php



is.php


is.php


is.php


is.php


is.php


is.php


is.php


is.php


is.php


is.php


is.php


is.php


is.php


is.php





















And the rest....


is.php


is.php


is.php


Here is the enclosure within the console frame context.

is.php


The optical drives are in the wristpad support modules.

is.php



Well, that's my solution,
 
have you thought about water cooling very quiet and then only requires a few small fans to keep everything else cool.Bigger fans at slower speeds are quieter than smaller ones spining faster to move the same amount of air.
i have one of these
PaQ - PC quiet cases - Information

but mine runs to a water cooling tower.and i have to say its very quiet and never gets above 30 degrees (2.4 dual core)

with yours you could try running it to a bigger radiator (small house size)and i bet it would run at room temp fingers crossed :)
 
Rick: your setup is over the top flawless, I love it.

Axe: While water cooling delivers significant increase in cooling I have yet to find a water pump that runs quieter than newer high performance cpu heatsink fans. That and liquid cooling's reliability has come far from what it was in the past few years but it is still far off perfect.

Twin: I have heard you can fudge the max length specs on usb but its nothing I would recommend. You could look into remote virtual desptop controllers like RealVNC. Run it over your wifi and control your "heavy lifting" CPUs with light duty quiet laptop. Although I am not sure if you can use these programs to transfer hard drive or optical drive info to the remote pc's. You would in this case still have get a little creative with your audio interfaces because they go where the muscle goes, but balanced lines run a lot farther than 5 meters. Then theres theres the running of long length vga, dvi, or hdmi for display monitors but still "do" able. It may or may not be worth all of the effort as opposed to a usb rack mount remote but still may be cheaper than a full out iso box.That and I have always liked the portability of laptops for production. Nothing like mixing from bed.. ; ) or just getting away from the desk and board and sitting on a comfy couch for a few minutes and still having access to you rig. Laptops just don't have enough cajones a lot of the time, remote controlling a powerful Pc from your laptop solves this.
Hell looking at it now, remote desktop control via laptop or netbook could be worth it even if your power pc's are sitting right next to you.
 
Nice work, Rick.

The intake and exhaust plenum were something that had entered my mind for my case cabinet.
My remote box is more like a 2U rack case with similar controls fed into it. Hoever, that is easy with
IDE cables than the SATA cables, which as far as it's been disclosed above as have a severe distance
limitation. So... I may end up ditching the remote box in the end and consider the quiet fan or fanless or
both route. Will be interesting to know what your volume levels would be with the mic right on top of that
console above the computer with an SM57 +12dB level and almost 60%(?) gain to boot. That's signal amplification
I am needing to generate and still have -70 or better silence.

needed to overcome.

Sure wish there was a better way.
 
Rick: your setup is over the top flawless, I love it.
:eek: Well thank you sir. I'd submit an HVAC engineer/acoustician might find a few flaws though.:D In fact, the design may change a bit in the next few days. I've posed a few questions to an acoustician friend regarding the exhaust plenum air path dimensions and possible silencer inclusion. Actually, he may suggest the whole idea is an exercise in "diminishing returns".:laughings:


But like I said, my studio is for me and me only, and my solution's effectiveness is qualified by my criteria only. If it's still not good enough..well, there's always tomorrow and I got nothing but time. :drunk:
 
"RESERATOR1 V2 Fanless Water Cooling System (w/WB5+)"

This would definitely be the exception. A friend of mine has this for a high performance gaming rig and it is indeed quiet. Nice rig.
 
I saw mention of HD gaskets but not fan or PSU gaskets. Also, they do make low db fans, those coupled with gasketing and some of that "dampening" mat stuff inside the case goes a long way. It doesn't make it silent, but it helps a whole heaping bunch. I eventually got tired of trying to figure out a good way to silence my loud pc's in a crazy rack and moved them into the next room and ran usb/ps2/vga/firewire extensions to my desk. Though my recording box is quiet enough to be in the room.
 
Back
Top