Drum Tuning(er)

covana

New member
I got my set about 2 weeks ago, and I am having trouble getting the heads in tune with themself. Is it best to keep at it by ear, or do you think one of those "drum dials" would be good for me.
Thanks on any input.
 
Drum dials are good to assure that you have even tension all the way around the head - which is an important part of drum tuning. In addition, there is an instruction sheet which identifies approx. tension for specific sized shells. However, a drum dial costs almost as much as a set of batter heads.

Keep in mind that if it is a new kit, it probably came with cheap heads. If it's a used kit, the heads are probably dead. In either case you need to replace the heads (at least the batter side).

I would suggest that before you buy a drum dial, buy new batter heads. For a 5 piece kit you're looking at $100 (including the kick). Evans and Aquarian make great heads and Remo have been a standard for years. Make sure you get even tension by tightening all the lugs to finger tightness, then useing a "star" pattern tighten each lug a 1/4 turn with a tuning key. When you get the heads "semi-tight" push down to "seat" the head. Then continue to tighten to your preference. When you tap the head near each lug (about 1" from the rim) you should get the same tone.

A drum dial is not a bad tool, but it will never replace learning to get a sound by trusting your ear.

Keep working at it - you'll be glad you did!!
 
We're both in the same boat here covana, I've been having that same problem too (and I did get new heads, but I don't like them and I am NEVER getting coated heads again). My main problem is I can't get them tuned low enough, because when I tune them down to the low pitch I want, they buzzzzzz like crazy so I tune them up until the buzz stops but then they are way to high and then they piiiiiiing (I haven't tried replacing the resonant heads yet, would this make a big difference?). Has anyone had any luck with the coated heads? I've had two sets of the coated heads (first set Remo Ambassadors, and second set Evans G2) and have had no luck with either one of them. I am very picky about the sound I want, I just can't get it and I WON'T REST UNTIL I DO!!!!

-tkr
 
hey tekker....

have you fiddled with the resonant head's tuning?? this might help you get a lower tone....

check out the link that I posted....using this tuning method will allow you to determine what the 'fundamental note' of your drum is...this is the lowest pitch that your drum is able to produce - if you want a lower pitch than this 'fundamental note', then your going to have to get a bigger drum

coated heads are nice...but it depends on what kind of sound that you're looking for....generally, the coated heads produce a sound that less 'bright' than the clear heads.

I have clear Evans G2s on my kit and I love them.
 
hey tekker....

have you fiddled with the resonant head's tuning?? this might help you get a lower tone....

check out the link that I posted....using this tuning method will allow you to determine what the 'fundamental note' of your drum is...this is the lowest pitch that your drum is able to produce - if you want a lower pitch than this 'fundamental note', then your going to have to get a bigger drum

coated heads are nice...but it depends on what kind of sound that you're looking for....generally, the coated heads produce a sound that less 'bright' than the clear heads.

I have clear Evans G2s on my kit and I love them.
 
Yeah, I've fiddled with the resonant head too, but I can't seem to find a place (low enough) where at least one head doesn't buzz. I think the main problem is the coated head, even tuned up semi high it still kinda buzzes.

I've had that drum tuning bible link for a while but I guess I just never read through the whole thing yet (I'm such a slacker :D). I read the part about tuning your drums to the key of the song, man that's much easier said than done (at least with my kit anyway). I'll look through it again and see what I can come up with.

I wanted to get the G2 clears, but they were out and I needed new heads (badly) for our band's recording so I couldn't wait till they got them. Then I left my set over at my friends house (where we were doing the recording) for a few weeks and by the time I got my set back home I figured it was to late to take them back.

-tkr
 
tekker-

sounds to me like you may be trying to get a tone out of a drum that isn't possible given that drum's size - you should perform the 'method' layed out in the drum tuning bible and you will be able to determine that fundamental tone that I was talking about. That way, at least you'll know up front if the tone that you're looking for is unobtainable with that drum.

you gotta realize that tuning takes some patience and time to get it right (this coming from one impatient person)...

other things to consider:

- make sure that all of your hardware is tight - could it be a loose lug screw that's buzzing? some people go as far as to take the lugs off and pack them with cotton so that they don't rattle/buzz
- check your bearing edges to make sure they're ok - bad bearing edges could result in sheisty tuning results

hope this is helping...
 
Actually, I think it's just that I'm trying to get a tone that isn't possible with the given drum head, even the even the lower 16" floor tom is still not getting the sound than I want it too.

My set up is a Tama Rockstar 10 x 9, 12 x 10, 14 x 12, 16 x 16.

It's not the hardware (already checked into that), and the bearing edge seems to be good to me, (I've even tried the heating thing so they should be seated good, but yet they still buzz).

I'll have to try starting with the bottom head (I've always started with the top) and see what tones the drums are actually capable of, then go from there.

Thanx for all your help :)

tkr
 
Go buy a Neary Drum Torque.

Put 5 PSI on the batter head and 10 PSI per lug on the Resonant head. do this on every drum-but reverse it for the kick.(10 on batter, 5 on Resonant for the kick). The Kit will thump.
Also, put 10 on the snare, and put 20 on top for a starting point-then if you want the snare tighter-tune it in a star manner by tightening each lug 1/4" turn.

This tuning is called "relative pitch", and what it will do, is put the same tension on each drum while the SIZE OF THE SHELL determines the actual pitch.

You'll get an excellently tuned kit every time.

Tim
 
Thanx Tim, I'll have to give that a try if I can't get it to work by myself. But I think I would prefer to be able to do it on my own (without the help of gadgets), so that I can tune any set that I come across (if I don't have my nifty drum key with me). Plus its a good learning experience and a good thing to know how to do. And if I can get drum tuning down pat, then I know I can accomplish ANYTHING. :D
Maybe I should get it just so I can hear what they should sound like, then take all the heads off and do it again on my own. :)

I just spent about 50min tuning my 10" and I tried putting the resonant head on first and tuning it as low as it would go, (I had to hit it with my thumb because the stick made it buzz) then I put on the top head and it had to be tuned just above the resonant (but played that one with the stick). Then I stuck it on my kit and there is no buzz, but the only problem is it that it is still to high. But at least now I know that it IS the head because when I hit the bottom one and it sounds a lot lower, than the top one. So I don't know what it is with these coated heads that they get really high pitched when I hit them, strange. Oh well, now I know not to EVER get coated heads again. :rolleyes:

-tkr
 
Tekker

Try tuning your drums by putting your index finger right in the middle lightly and tapping around the lugs with drum sticks. You will hear an octave harmonic of the drum get the lugs on the top drum to sound uniform.

Then do the same thing on the lower heads to the same pitch. From there, either go for a sustained thoom sound by very slightly lowering the bottom heads or go for a gonk (tight) sound by tightening the bottom head a little bit.

Do this it will work.

This is how the doctorate of percussion tom davis showed me in college when I was an undergrad.

It has always worked for me.
 
Tekker said:
Thanx Tim, I'll have to give that a try if I can't get it to work by myself. But I think I would prefer to be able to do it on my own (without the help of gadgets), so that I can tune any set that I come across (if I don't have my nifty drum key with me


I just spent about 50min tuning my 10" and I tried putting the resonant head on first and tuning it ...
---Snipped---
So I don't know what it is with these coated heads that they get really high pitched when I hit them, strange. Oh well, now I know not to EVER get coated heads again. :rolleyes:

-tkr


Well, The Drum torque just helps save time, that's all.

As for the sound of the 10" tom being too high in pitch-I hate to tell you this-but because it's a 10" drum it's never going to be really "low" pitched. I'm not being a smartass-it's just a reality.
My smallest tom is a 15". I just don't like the sound of little drums. My floors are 18" & 20"...actually, I'm contemplating building a 22" Floor. Now personally, I like my toms to sound like Tymps/Kettle drums.
It may be that you just don't like the sound of small drums either, since you're trying to get such a low sound out of the 10".


The Coated heads(like Remo's coated white emperors) will have more of a muffled/lower tone than a non coated head...an ebony or clear head will have a higher tone with alot more attack.



Tim
 
Tim

If you go for a timpani sound I am guessing your lower heads are tuned tighter. Is that right ?

I like thin heads in general except for the bass drum which I like aquarians on most of the time. If you get pinstripes I think the clear heads sound better than coated. Clear heads sound really good on little toms to my ear but I like the sound of real light coated heads on bigger drums to get a good THHHOOOOOMMMM sound. I am usually going for resonance and tone rather than tightness on toms, on the snare I like a ringy bell bing sound ontop of a smack/rimshot type thing. I always use a coated head on a snare cuz I get effects out of the roughness of it with or without brushes.

My tastes for drum sounds have not come more from studio guys/ big band/ combo stuff and some latin/brassilian stuff as well as from Fela kuti (afrobeat). I play hard rock too but the kit really sounds more chili peppers or james brown and less metallica and shit like that.

I am gonna get a drum torque cuz they sound neat. I would advise tuning a drum like I mentioned above once or twice though. It's also a good Idea to take the heads off of the drum shell alltogether, suspend it with a free hand or a string and crack the shell with a flick or a stick to try and hear the pitch the shell makes. If you get that pitch in your head good (sometimes I reference with a piano or a guitar) then tune the heads pretty close to to that pitch. When you get close to that pitch you will hear the drum open up. Sometimes you will crack the drum when you are close to the sweet spot and it will go thhhhHHHHOOOOOOooooommmm. It will actually get louder or appear to after the hit. Part of that is the two heads acting like a concert bass drum where one head is slightly lower than the head being struck. The other part is because the shell is at a resonant frequency to the head. Once you get a drum that is totally resonant than you can just adjust the bottom head up or down a little to get rid of the extra resonance that you don't need.

When you are recording this will keep you from doing too much gating (although it sounds cool to limit drums sometimes) playing live with overheads I have made some great recordings with smaller toms tuned really resonant with rock bands.
 
Thanx Fela and Tim

Fela,
I did actually try taking the heads off and smacking the tom to find the shell's pitch and I couldn't really distiquish an actual note/pitch out of it, but that was quite a while ago and I don't think I was really tring to hard at that time to get it right (I think it was when I got my new set and I just wanted to set up and go jam ;)). So I'll spend a little more time on that and see if I can get something that will work. :)

Tim,
Yeah, I know the 10" is going to be high pitched.....but this thing is rediculously high, and like I said in a previous post not even the 16" is getting the sound I want. So I'm still thinking it's the heads. And the fact that the bottom head sounds better than the top REALLY makes me think it's the heads. So as soon as I get the money I'll try out the G2 clears and see if that doesn't "clear" things up a bit. :D I sure hope so.......

Thanx again

-tkr
 
Some Tuning tips.

Yo man I personaly love coated but if you really want them low tone I'd suggest Remo Pinstriped I just put them on my Tama they have great tone and easy too tune and for even more thunderous low dark tones try the ebony pinstripes. I myself am more partial too higher tuned drums but I got pinstripes for Metal cuz I can tune higher and get the heavy tones also
but they're great low better than with high tones. Try'em and lemme know I paid about $50 at guitar center for a set of 10", 12", 14", 22", a coated 14" for the snare which gives the snare serious brutal bite.
 
Fela said:
Tim

If you go for a timpani sound I am guessing your lower heads are tuned tighter. Is that right ?


Hi Fela,

Yes. I use big drums and tune them fairly tight. Now I'm up to 10 PSI per lug for the batter, and 15 PSI per lug for the resonant heads on the toms.

I had band practice the other night with my new band (first time with these guys) and the guitarist was freaking over the sound of the toms.

Tim
 
Be careful with the drum torque/dial things. Your tuning screws have to be perfect. No slight cross-threading or sticky movement. I had a problem with them before I figured out that there was some screws that were freely spinning until I reached the critical tuning depth. I had to remove all heads and go through each screw by hand (no key). I replaced a few screws and very lightly oiled all the screws. The torque worked fine after that. Don't assume brand new drums have perfectly free moving tuning screws. I hope I didn't post the obvious.

Fela is right about lightly touching the center to get an octave harmonic. I use a good guitar chromatic tuner to accurately determine pitches and sometimes I need that harmonic for the tuner.
 
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