control room window
- Thread starter kristian
- Start date
CMiller
New member
Whoa Kristian, before you do any remodeling you might want to invite an engineer over to your house to make sure you aren't cutting into any load-bearing walls...that wouldn't be good. If he says everything's ok, then you should be able to cut a window and frame it in (reinforcing the surrounding framing) no problem. I can't emphasize enough the importance of having a qualified person inspect the project before you do anything. The carpentry would be pretty easy to do though.
kristian
New member
yea thats why i asked the question, i didnt see how it was possible to cut a big hole in a wall. it sort of baffled me. I was thinking. If you have a closer that was used as a control room you could make a door that has a window in it, a lot cheaper then installing one in the wall. and you could make it on your own.
Nate Tyler
New member
Kristian,
I am currently retrofitting a 2500 sf building into my personal recording studio on our property.
I put in a 7'x4' control room window in, and it was in a load bearing wall. This would be the worst-case scenario for you. Chances are, if you're just doing this on a 2x4 interior wall, you'll be fine. I'd still recommend having someone come over and take a look.
But as far as the feasibility of putting in a window, you're fine either way. If it's a load bearing wall, you'll just have to cut the studs ("vertical pieces of wood") up far enough above your window frame to place in a window header. For my window, it was simply 3-7 foot 2x6's glued and nailed together (as opposed to a 6x6 beam) above the window frame.
No problem.
Good luck.
Nate Tyler
I am currently retrofitting a 2500 sf building into my personal recording studio on our property.
I put in a 7'x4' control room window in, and it was in a load bearing wall. This would be the worst-case scenario for you. Chances are, if you're just doing this on a 2x4 interior wall, you'll be fine. I'd still recommend having someone come over and take a look.
But as far as the feasibility of putting in a window, you're fine either way. If it's a load bearing wall, you'll just have to cut the studs ("vertical pieces of wood") up far enough above your window frame to place in a window header. For my window, it was simply 3-7 foot 2x6's glued and nailed together (as opposed to a 6x6 beam) above the window frame.
No problem.
Good luck.
Nate Tyler
Nate Tyler
New member
Hi guys...
Sorry it took me so long to respond...
I haven't been back to the NG in awhile.
Actually, BigKahuna, I haven't placed the glass in yet, but I will be using 2 pieces of glass. It's hard to really give you a good idea of the design without drawings, but let's give it a shot.
First of all, I have two walls at the front of my control room. The control room is actually a "room within a room." So I have the existing wall facing the large tracking room, and the front wall of the CR. There is about a 4 inch gap between the walls. Each is a 2x6 wall, and the CR wall is built with stagerred 2x4 studs with resilliant channell (RC1) mounted 16" OC. Then there's two layers of sheetrock (5/8 and 1/2)on one side, and 5/8 on the other.
There are two seperate panes of glass--one for each wall. Around the window frame is some firring with weather stripping facing where the window will be placed. (the window will press against this all the way around to create a seal) Then the trim will go on the other side of the window after it is placed in the opening. One pane is 1/4" and the other is 3/8".
Let me know if this didn't make sense, or didn't answer your question. And, by the way, from what I understand tempered glass does have a higher STC rating, but not enough to be worth the additional expense.
OH, and let me know how your doors turn out Kahuna. I'm putting in double sliding glass doors in most places, but will need to put in a couple 3-0 6-8 doors and am curious about your steel door idea. Let me know.
Nate
Sorry it took me so long to respond...
I haven't been back to the NG in awhile.
Actually, BigKahuna, I haven't placed the glass in yet, but I will be using 2 pieces of glass. It's hard to really give you a good idea of the design without drawings, but let's give it a shot.
First of all, I have two walls at the front of my control room. The control room is actually a "room within a room." So I have the existing wall facing the large tracking room, and the front wall of the CR. There is about a 4 inch gap between the walls. Each is a 2x6 wall, and the CR wall is built with stagerred 2x4 studs with resilliant channell (RC1) mounted 16" OC. Then there's two layers of sheetrock (5/8 and 1/2)on one side, and 5/8 on the other.
There are two seperate panes of glass--one for each wall. Around the window frame is some firring with weather stripping facing where the window will be placed. (the window will press against this all the way around to create a seal) Then the trim will go on the other side of the window after it is placed in the opening. One pane is 1/4" and the other is 3/8".
Let me know if this didn't make sense, or didn't answer your question. And, by the way, from what I understand tempered glass does have a higher STC rating, but not enough to be worth the additional expense.
OH, and let me know how your doors turn out Kahuna. I'm putting in double sliding glass doors in most places, but will need to put in a couple 3-0 6-8 doors and am curious about your steel door idea. Let me know.
Nate
Thanks for the info, Nate!
I asked mainly because I'll probably be putting in another window (either here or another location) at some point ... and I thought that was one of the hardest things to do. Just getting the finished opening nice and square was a pain.
I used two 1" insulated glass panes (1/8" pane - 3/4" airspace - 1/8" pane) in my window and have a simliar wall construction as you (no staggered studs or RC, though ... still kicking myself). One 1" pane per wall with about a 2" gap in between the walls.
I've heard that some folks use 3 panes to get a better STC, but that seemed a little expensive and complicated.
I've also heard that you should mount each pane at a slight angle to avoid resonance between the glass. I didn't follow that advice, but did put foam covered with thick fabric around the perimeter of the window (inside) to help soak it up. So far, haven't noticed any major problems.
Anyway, it works for me.
One thing that caught me by surprise was making sure the glass was clean as it went in. I thought I did a good job ... but it's a little hazy now 3 years later. I'm not removing the glass to clean it, though!
Anyway, thanks again for the info. I'm not looking forward to the next window ... but if I'm ever going to do that again ... I want to avoid as many mistakes as possible.
Also, when I get my doors tweaked ... I'll post here and show you what I did.
Thanks
[This message has been edited by BigKahuna (edited 04-06-2000).]
I asked mainly because I'll probably be putting in another window (either here or another location) at some point ... and I thought that was one of the hardest things to do. Just getting the finished opening nice and square was a pain.
I used two 1" insulated glass panes (1/8" pane - 3/4" airspace - 1/8" pane) in my window and have a simliar wall construction as you (no staggered studs or RC, though ... still kicking myself). One 1" pane per wall with about a 2" gap in between the walls.
I've heard that some folks use 3 panes to get a better STC, but that seemed a little expensive and complicated.
I've also heard that you should mount each pane at a slight angle to avoid resonance between the glass. I didn't follow that advice, but did put foam covered with thick fabric around the perimeter of the window (inside) to help soak it up. So far, haven't noticed any major problems.
Anyway, it works for me.
One thing that caught me by surprise was making sure the glass was clean as it went in. I thought I did a good job ... but it's a little hazy now 3 years later. I'm not removing the glass to clean it, though!
Anyway, thanks again for the info. I'm not looking forward to the next window ... but if I'm ever going to do that again ... I want to avoid as many mistakes as possible.
Also, when I get my doors tweaked ... I'll post here and show you what I did.
Thanks
[This message has been edited by BigKahuna (edited 04-06-2000).]
Tim Brown
New member
Hey Kahuna,
Don't know what Glass is going for up in your neck of the woods-but I know some guys who went and bought used Sliding Glass doors; took them apart, and made a wooden frame for them.
Bingo! worked like a charm They had 3 pieces of Glass that they used to make 1 window, and the had offset the glass at different angles, so that they got rid of any glare.
Tim
Don't know what Glass is going for up in your neck of the woods-but I know some guys who went and bought used Sliding Glass doors; took them apart, and made a wooden frame for them.
Bingo! worked like a charm They had 3 pieces of Glass that they used to make 1 window, and the had offset the glass at different angles, so that they got rid of any glare.
Tim
John Sayers
Solar Power!!
check out my site:
http://www.lis.net.au/~johnsay/Acoustics/Titles/Acoustics3.htm
http://www.lis.net.au/~johnsay/Acoustics/Titles/Acoustics3.htm
I made a window MISTAKE!!!!
I saw a little slider/doublepane glass at contractors warehouse for 29$. I figured I didnt need to slant any glass since the noise would not be aimed directly at the glass.
R E SONNNN A N C E ! ! ! I SUUUUUUCK!
I coulda spent that 30$ to upgrade my vocal mic!
I ended up cutting foam and thick pad to cover the window I worked do hard to install.
I I get them in soon, you can see the great "closet gone vox booth" pics on the homerec cd coming soon.
p.s. you KNOW I added a/c in, exaust out, and a video camera (monitor sits next to my umm... monitor).
I keep telling my wife those doors always come off the track anyway.
I saw a little slider/doublepane glass at contractors warehouse for 29$. I figured I didnt need to slant any glass since the noise would not be aimed directly at the glass.
R E SONNNN A N C E ! ! ! I SUUUUUUCK!
I coulda spent that 30$ to upgrade my vocal mic!
I ended up cutting foam and thick pad to cover the window I worked do hard to install.
I I get them in soon, you can see the great "closet gone vox booth" pics on the homerec cd coming soon.
p.s. you KNOW I added a/c in, exaust out, and a video camera (monitor sits next to my umm... monitor).
I keep telling my wife those doors always come off the track anyway.
As I remember these panes had to be custom made and were around $100 a piece. They're only 4'x3' though ... so I really like your idea a lot, Tim. The glass in those must be about 4' x 6' ... an extra 3' would be nice. Plus I think I've seen those doors for less that $200 in some places.
I haven't noticed any resonance problems due to my mounting style (maybe because of the foam? ... you should try that, rj) but I never even thought about how that would avoid glare!
I can see 4 reflections because I mounted both panes at 90º. Mounting both with the tops slightly inward = no glare! Doh! ...
I swear, if I had to finish my basement over again ... I would do almost everything differently.
Maybe if I remount this glass at some point, I'll change the angle.
Also ... John S, great web page! Lots of good info. Very easy to understand and to the point. You should repost that as it's own topic.
I haven't noticed any resonance problems due to my mounting style (maybe because of the foam? ... you should try that, rj) but I never even thought about how that would avoid glare!
I can see 4 reflections because I mounted both panes at 90º. Mounting both with the tops slightly inward = no glare! Doh! ...
I swear, if I had to finish my basement over again ... I would do almost everything differently.
Maybe if I remount this glass at some point, I'll change the angle.
Also ... John S, great web page! Lots of good info. Very easy to understand and to the point. You should repost that as it's own topic.
John Sayers
Solar Power!!
can I do That??
I don't see why not. It's a great site and you've been really generous with the information you share. The best thing about it is all the diagrams you include. Plus your writing style is very easy to understand.
The only thing I can't figure out how to get the other areas to activate too.
The only thing I can't figure out how to get the other areas to activate too.
John Sayers
Solar Power!!
Thanks mate - the other parts aren't active because they are up for purchase. I've put the studio design site up for free but if you want more of the same you have to buy it for US$30.00. cheap at twice the price - I've just spent allnight making it Netscape friendly (I thought everyone had given netscape away cos it won't do layers etc but my new counter tells me there's still plenty of netscape users around!!)
Brian Grey
New member
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by kristian:
how would you go about putting in a control window into a house that is already built? if you knock the part of the wall out, first there would be vertical wood panels every half half-foot or so... can you saw those out? or how would you go about putting one in?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I don't know if this discusion is still going on, but I figure what the hey? If you're going to go so far as to put a window in a wall, why won't you thicken the wall with 2 layers of 5/8" particle wood on each side of the wall, and then mount 2 layers of drywall on resiliant channel on each side of the wall. That way you'll have an 8 inch wall that won't let sound through. And don't just get one window, get two, and make sure they're at least 5/8" thick. And if you do something serious like I said above, don't forget to use silicone cauld on all the seams and boundaries of each peice of wood, and stagger seams as well, as to not let sound through. I hope I helped you... in a small, small way...
how would you go about putting in a control window into a house that is already built? if you knock the part of the wall out, first there would be vertical wood panels every half half-foot or so... can you saw those out? or how would you go about putting one in?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I don't know if this discusion is still going on, but I figure what the hey? If you're going to go so far as to put a window in a wall, why won't you thicken the wall with 2 layers of 5/8" particle wood on each side of the wall, and then mount 2 layers of drywall on resiliant channel on each side of the wall. That way you'll have an 8 inch wall that won't let sound through. And don't just get one window, get two, and make sure they're at least 5/8" thick. And if you do something serious like I said above, don't forget to use silicone cauld on all the seams and boundaries of each peice of wood, and stagger seams as well, as to not let sound through. I hope I helped you... in a small, small way...
If you have two panes of glass you might want to mount one of them so that it is angled out from the other pane(about 30 degrees). This way any sound in the void between the panes decays into the wall wheras if they are mounted perpendicular to one another the sound will resonate longer and louder because the reflection has know where to go but back into the other pane of glass.