Can I get away with...

ThaArtist

New member
If I make my walls layer 2x4>Hushboard>resilient Channel>2 layers of 1/2" drywall.

The live room/booth is small 6'x9'x6'5". If the inside glass is 2'x3' 1/4" and control room side is 2'x3' 3/8", do you think that will be thick enough as to not become the weaker link?

One glass place told me they always do 1/4" and 3/8" in studios but I have no idea what that would sound like.

If that's horrible is 3/8" and 1/2" just terrible or are they too close in size?
 
Does anyone get Tempered glass or do you chance it without tempered? Is it soooo crucial to have tempered glass? Do most of you get laminated glass single pane?

Anyone?
 
How much Isolation do you need?

That is the question. Once I know how much you need, I can suggest a good wall system. Glass too. Laminated should be just fine. But you will need to match the mass of the walls...

Cheers,
John
 
To be honest, I have some weak links that I can't really solve completely because it's just not an option with my partner... but I can try to help improve them preexisting weak links of course. Which I think my plans kind of do for the most part.

I need to have it fairly quite for the living quarters above and hopefully neighbors.

It is a basement with cinderblock and when playing the drums as the rooms are built now it's not too bad outside. I don't think the neighbors can really hear it in their house, but I'd like to try to stop as much sound transmission as possible.

The problem would be late night recordings not disturbing the bed room above it even though it is on the other side of the house.

Because my budget is tight and most people (and some of the experts on here) say doubling up on glass and angling it doesn't really have much of an acoustical advantage if any, I was thinking of just getting the thickest possible piece of glass that I can afford and just do it straight in the center of the thickness of the wall.

Space for the ceiling is an issue so my existing thoughts were as follows considering doing it the cheapest

Between the floorboard joists (which is the ceiling of course) I was thinking on cutting down some MDF to fit in between and doubling up on and caulking the gaps. Maybe floating it with a glue like green glue however, that stuff is way too expensive so I'd like to maybe float it with a liquid nails with a few screws coated for external use to help hold it in place. (Or just cut out the whole green glue idea and use screws?)

Plus cut pieces of MDF to fit vertically in between where the new wall meets the floorboard joists so it kind of continues the wall frame up in between the joists. Maybe do like 2 glued pieces of MDF that way.

Then I have some already existing johns mansville sound control batts that I was planning on putting up with another layer of 703 (maybe 703 or else doubling up on the johns mansville sound control batts or if theres something better similarly prices.) The batts are way cheaper for the amount you get than 703 of course which is why it is appealing. Not sure if doubling up on the "sound control" JM batts will help alot or a little or what.

The glass piece is already expensive enough. I find it hard to pay $100 or more for one glass piece. I feel like with all these recycling shows on TV etc. that somehow in a big city I should be able to get a thick piece of usable glass for near half that price. Some kind of remnant maybe? No idea, but it feels wrong to pay anything more than $100 to me since this space is so small and amateur.

I think I am doing away with my initial idea of hushboard>resilient channel>drywall, and thinking about from the inside wall working outwards drywall<drywall<MDF<batts of whatevers cheap that will work>drywall>drywall because its way easier and cheaper than resilient channel.

I can't do a two wall system just single wall 2x4's.

Three walls will be the walls described or that we decide and one will be existing cinderblock or whatever similar blocks were used of a house built in 1980.

I have existing recessed lighting but I'm going to do away with them and change them to boxes for some small track lighting system so I can eliminate the recessed lighting as being a weak link.

Any recommendations or corrections. Please please please let me know! I appreciate anyones help. I actually have another thread dedicated to what I just posted but this one I was just going to ask about the glass so... sorry for that ppl.
 
If budget is a concern and you have weak links, first determine how much these weak links are affecting the overall isolation. Do not build isolation exceeding the weak links.

For example; you have a flanking problem that will not permit you to have more than STC55 isolation. --- Do not build an STC63 partition. You will be wasting materials, money, and time.

Once you have all your partitions designed, whether they are walls or ceiling, you can then figure the glass thickness necessary.

If you would like help with this contact me. ;)

Cheers,
John
 
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