Bad Wiring? 'Sync' problems with firepod.

BRIEFCASEMANX

Winner chicken dinner!
I have a presonus firepod and I have it clocked to a 2 channel Mytek ADC, through s/pdif. Sometimes in the middle of a session, my firepod will lose sync and everything will go screwy and it'll change sample rate to 48khz while my converter is still at 44.1khz. I noticed it happened a few times when someone was messing with the washing machine downstairs, as well as with the dishwasher upstairs. What can I do about this?

I've NEVER had any sort of problem when the firepod is using internal clock. I'm also using a 10ft long s/pdif cable, could using a shorter cable, maybe a 3ft help?


And to my enemies who would wish ill on me and my recordings, I will rain death upon you from the heavens!
 
With the new drivers, the SPDIF started acting weird...

here is a threat about month's ago:

You must have a very specific SPDIF digital cable. A SPDIF coaxial connection looks like an RCA analog type connection, but SPDIF is not analog. SPDIF is a stereo digital connection. To use the SPDIF input on the FirePod, you must change the clock source of the FirePod so that it receives its clock source from the connected SPDIF device. First, disconnect the SPDIF cable from the FirePod's SPDIF input connection. Open the FirePod Control Panel and change the "clock source" setting to 'SPDIF'. The FirePod's sync light should start to flash steadily from Red to Blue. Now set your external SPDIF device to generate clock source and send it to SPDIF out. Connect the SPDIF cable to the FirePod's SPDIF input. If the external SPDIF device is set to be the clock Master, the FirePod's sync light should now become solid blue indicating that the FirePod is synced externally. Now you need to choose the FirePod's SPDIF Left and Right input channels or input channels 9 and 10 to an audio track within your recording software.


Ok I found out the probem (if any one has the same one).

Unplug the S/PDIF cable from the SPDIF IN on the firepod


Make sure you switch the firepod to INTERNAL CLOCK

Wait a few seconds

Switch it to SPDIF

Wait till the light is blinking

Plug the cable and WAIT FOR AT LEAST 20 SECONDS (this is crucial).

When your computer is not loading anything, it is safe to close the firepod window and go use cubase, sonar or any of your favorite recording program.

Presonus were not able to answer my question and I had this problem since they realeased the new driver and firmware.
 
I'm using firmware from a year and a half ago, and I have no problem getting it to sync up, but once in the while after it's been synced up for awhile, it loses sync out of nowhere. I can get it to sync back up again, but it's just a pain in the ass having it lose sync randomly, so I would like the fix it.
 
thats strange. washing machine changes the sample rate? that's definitely a new one for me.

mine changes randomly because windows will play a wav alert or aim will play a wav alert. it overrides whatever bit i'm in, and changes it. so i get these fizzing noises or weird playback until i notice...ah...i'm not at 88.2khz anymore
 
cello_pudding said:
thats strange. washing machine changes the sample rate? that's definitely a new one for me.

mine changes randomly because windows will play a wav alert or aim will play a wav alert. it overrides whatever bit i'm in, and changes it. so i get these fizzing noises or weird playback until i notice...ah...i'm not at 88.2khz anymore

I think for this, If you go into the control panel and then go to audio devices or whatever it's called, you can change it so windows won't play sounds out of your soundcard.
 
Sounds like one of your external devices hooked up to SPDIF or perhaps a DAT is on the same circuit as the washing machine or dishwasher or perhaps picking up interference from it. I would not even attempt recording with any appliance on because of line noise but I guess if your not doing anything with a open mic it should be alright.

Any way my suggestion is to run your recording equipment through a UPS then you shouldn't have a problem with power drop outs and line noise. It might be be a good ideal to keep your entire chain on the same circuit perhaps run everything through the UPS if physically possible.
 
BRIEFCASEMANX said:
I've NEVER had any sort of problem when the firepod is using internal clock. I'm also using a 10ft long s/pdif cable, could using a shorter cable, maybe a 3ft help?


whilst this probably isn't the source of the problem, i would def keep the s/pdif cable run as short as possible. The capacitance of the cable basically acts as a low pass filter, and when you're dealing with signals upwards of 40khz this can be affect quite rapidly.


however it does sound as if something in the same electric circuit as your setup is causing the problem. i'd suggest trying to reliably replicate the problem so that you can narrow down the cause.
 
RandyW said:
Sounds like one of your external devices hooked up to SPDIF or perhaps a DAT is on the same circuit as the washing machine or dishwasher or perhaps picking up interference from it. I would not even attempt recording with any appliance on because of line noise but I guess if your not doing anything with a open mic it should be alright.

Any way my suggestion is to run your recording equipment through a UPS then you shouldn't have a problem with power drop outs and line noise. It might be be a good ideal to keep your entire chain on the same circuit perhaps run everything through the UPS if physically possible.

Thanks man, rep+. What is a ups and where can I get one?
 
MessianicDreams said:
whilst this probably isn't the source of the problem, i would def keep the s/pdif cable run as short as possible. The capacitance of the cable basically acts as a low pass filter, and when you're dealing with signals upwards of 40khz this can be affect quite rapidly.


however it does sound as if something in the same electric circuit as your setup is causing the problem. i'd suggest trying to reliably replicate the problem so that you can narrow down the cause.

thank you, I am ordering a 3ft cable as we speak. rep+.
 
okay i'm seeing some here for as low as 50 bucks(i think the ones lower than that are just surge suppresors/power strips, which I already have). What would be one that might be good?

Also, what is the difference between these and those $2,000 Furman "power conditioners"?

And thene there's Furman "power conditioners" for like 100 bucks. I am confused, and need the assistance of you seasoned pros. Can you believe that I'd like to become an electrical engineer one day?????
 
The low priced Furman units, and those form any manufacturer, simply have filters on them but don't really condition the power. That's what you are paying for with the more expensive units. They take the incoming power, clean up the signal, and output a steady power supply to your gear.

The Furman unit I use is the AR-15 Series II voltage regulator. It's well under $1,000.

It sounds to me like the appliances are messing with the power supply in your house or apartment when the motors kick in. There is probably a sudden current drain or something like that, which is affecting your Firepod. If you've noticed a correclation to the operation of applicances, then you've probably already diagnosed the issue pretty well.

A power regulator might or might not solve that, you'd have to try it out to be certain. A free solution to try is to experiment with plugging your gear into different outlets to try and find one that's not on the same circuit as the appliances above and below you. That's what I would do first. You may need to get a long extension cord, but that's a lot less costly than a power conditioner!
 
good idea, it's never happened in my bedroom when my stuff is hooked up there. That's a long extension though :eek:

I'll try that out.

Could it be because I have all my stuff hooked up to the same outlet through use of multiple power strips, and it's eating too much power from that one outlet or something? (monitors, preamps, firepod, converter, video monitor, headphone amp, computer).
 
No, it's not that it's all on one outlet. At least I don't think so. I mean, I've got way more gear than that attached to one outlet in my house without any problems!

Most likely the problem is that the outlet is in the same circuit with the appliances. If the besroom outlet works better you can always roll up the extension cord whenever you are finished with your studio.
 
BRIEFCASEMANX said:
okay i'm seeing some here for as low as 50 bucks(i think the ones lower than that are just surge suppresors/power strips, which I already have). What would be one that might be good?

Also, what is the difference between these and those $2,000 Furman "power conditioners"?

And thene there's Furman "power conditioners" for like 100 bucks. I am confused, and need the assistance of you seasoned pros. Can you believe that I'd like to become an electrical engineer one day?????


One I recommend to a lot of people, is the APC brand they have a 1200VA model that goes for about $120. But I normally recommend these for computer related clients to keep a server up for a while so it can be shut down safely. For your purpose depending on how much equipment your running you could go to something maybe half that size since your only dealing with drop outs in voltage rather than complete black outs.
 
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