a new mixer

brendandwyer

New member
I own a mackie 32-8. i don't like it. The eq is shit and i just don't need a 32 channel mixer.

I can sell it for $1100-1300, we'll put another $500-800 towards a new one meaning i can spend $1600-$2100 on a new one.

I use outboard preamps and won't be recording through it, but using if for monitoring in the CR and for mixing.

I'd like a baord with decent eq and talkback. I'm looking at the A&H GL2400. does anyone have any opinions on A&H or this board in particular.

thanks
 
i'm not a mackie fan either,
i got an allen & heath GS3

i like it, does have some flaws but its a great recording machine,

i think the GL series are mostly for live, no? but will do the job i guess, didn't use that specific mixer but i just think that any allen & heath will be an upgrade from mackie, My opinion!!
 
earworm said:
i'm not a mackie fan either,
i got an allen & heath GS3

i like it, does have some flaws but its a great recording machine,

i think the GL series are mostly for live, no? but will do the job i guess, didn't use that specific mixer but i just think that any allen & heath will be an upgrade from mackie, My opinion!!


yeah, it is a live console per say. We have outboard preamps and use the console to mix and monitor so i think it'll work great.

What are the flaws you've found in your board?
 
i bought the mixer without a psu, found a brittish company that builds psus for A&H, worked fine in the beginning but after a while my Mutes didn't work anymore, like if they dont receive power. Plus my PFL doesn't work, whenever u push the button on any channel everything is muted, don't know why, might be an operator error but i doubt it

besides that i have a few channels that tend to "drop out" from time to time, but the more i use the little console the less this problem occurs

i once opened it to clean the inside, also in hope to find some detached cables or so but couldn't see anything wrong, and i don't know much about electronics...

as far as i know the psu is decent, when i push the mixer on the part where the power comes in, it sometimes reboots, sounds like a bad contact...but where?
 
earworm said:
i bought the mixer without a psu, found a brittish company that builds psus for A&H, worked fine in the beginning but after a while my Mutes didn't work anymore, like if they dont receive power. Plus my PFL doesn't work, whenever u push the button on any channel everything is muted, don't know why, might be an operator error but i doubt it

besides that i have a few channels that tend to "drop out" from time to time, but the more i use the little console the less this problem occurs

i once opened it to clean the inside, also in hope to find some detached cables or so but couldn't see anything wrong, and i don't know much about electronics...

as far as i know the psu is decent, when i push the mixer on the part where the power comes in, it sometimes reboots, sounds like a bad contact...but where?

interesting. the mute button should be switches that don't require power, except to power the little led's. could be dirty or something.

i'm glad that i purchased new then. Not because i distrust A&H but because at least i have recourse if i find problems with it.

thanks for your help
 
The Allen Heath dropping channels is not an uncommon problem with them. Generally it tracks back to the Gain pot and not to the mute switch. More often than not, the gain knob can be cleaned and brought back to life, but you may have to actually replace the pot. The power supply problem sounds like a short in the wires which I have also seen. This is usally on the power plug on the console itself. Once again this is an easy fix if you are handy with a soldering iron and feel comfortable opening up the console. Sometimes it is actually a short, sometimes it is a bad connection (like a cold solder) going to the PCB board.

The PFL problem you are having should be the easiest to fix. I have not been in front of a GS3 for a while, so I do not remember exactly where it is, but I think the button you need to fix this is on the right side of the master section about half way up the master strip. You need to find the PFL area of the master section. It sounds to me like you have your solo in place activated. Generally when you solo a channel it will cue the soloed channel (or channels) in the control room and headphone outputs, but not in the master section. There are a few different solo types. PFL is pre fader. AFL is after fader. PFL will cue the channel typically with EQ, and whatever level the gain pot is sending (as if the fader were at unity). This is handy when setting gain trim and listening to channel EQ and insert settings. AFL cues things the same way, but the output is related to you in relation to the pan pot and the fader level. This is handy during the mixdown phase to hear how a certain channel fits in the mix. Solo in place is a more destructive soloing mechanism. Solo in place usually tracks to the main left and right outputs as well and is designed to mute all other channels except the soloed channels. This is handy when you have an announce mic and want to quickly mute everything but the anounce mic, or if you have a primary channel that needs to be activated at the same time everything else is deactivated. In the solo section of your master section there should be one button that switches the solo from AFL to PFL. The GS3 may not have this button. Sometimes inexpensive consoles have group and aux sends permanently set to AFL and channels permanently in PFL mode. Somewhere in that same section though there should be a button or even a recessed switch for "solo in place". My bet is that this switch is currently engaged. Nicer consoles will often have a button combination to activate solo in place or even a plastic cover so the switch can not be accidentally depressed. Solo in place can be disastrous if engaged accidentally in the middle of a live show ;) Hopefully this helps. Like I said I have not been in front of a GS3 for a little while but this should help. Sorry for the long description, but it sounded to me like you were not aware of how the whole Cue system typically works in a console.

As for the original poster... You are kind of stuck in a price range where you really are not going to have many options in the new console range where quality will improve much. As far as I know, Allen Hetah does not make the GS series any more, so if you wnat a new Allen Heath you will probably be limited to a 24 and maybe a 32 channel 4 buss GL. I would also reccomend you give consideration to the Mackie Onyx line if it falls within your price range. The newer Onyx seems to have made improvements over the older VLZ lines that are pretty vast. The preamps seem nicer, the EQ is much more responsive, crosstalk issues and headroom issues have both been adressed as well. With the current line-ups I would say that the two consoles are about equal in terms of sonic integrity and features.
 
xstatic said:
The Allen Heath dropping channels is not an uncommon problem with them. Generally it tracks back to the Gain pot and not to the mute switch. More often than not, the gain knob can be cleaned and brought back to life, but you may have to actually replace the pot. The power supply problem sounds like a short in the wires which I have also seen. This is usally on the power plug on the console itself. Once again this is an easy fix if you are handy with a soldering iron and feel comfortable opening up the console. Sometimes it is actually a short, sometimes it is a bad connection (like a cold solder) going to the PCB board.

The PFL problem you are having should be the easiest to fix. I have not been in front of a GS3 for a while, so I do not remember exactly where it is, but I think the button you need to fix this is on the right side of the master section about half way up the master strip. You need to find the PFL area of the master section. It sounds to me like you have your solo in place activated. Generally when you solo a channel it will cue the soloed channel (or channels) in the control room and headphone outputs, but not in the master section. There are a few different solo types. PFL is pre fader. AFL is after fader. PFL will cue the channel typically with EQ, and whatever level the gain pot is sending (as if the fader were at unity). This is handy when setting gain trim and listening to channel EQ and insert settings. AFL cues things the same way, but the output is related to you in relation to the pan pot and the fader level. This is handy during the mixdown phase to hear how a certain channel fits in the mix. Solo in place is a more destructive soloing mechanism. Solo in place usually tracks to the main left and right outputs as well and is designed to mute all other channels except the soloed channels. This is handy when you have an announce mic and want to quickly mute everything but the anounce mic, or if you have a primary channel that needs to be activated at the same time everything else is deactivated. In the solo section of your master section there should be one button that switches the solo from AFL to PFL. The GS3 may not have this button. Sometimes inexpensive consoles have group and aux sends permanently set to AFL and channels permanently in PFL mode. Somewhere in that same section though there should be a button or even a recessed switch for "solo in place". My bet is that this switch is currently engaged. Nicer consoles will often have a button combination to activate solo in place or even a plastic cover so the switch can not be accidentally depressed. Solo in place can be disastrous if engaged accidentally in the middle of a live show ;) Hopefully this helps. Like I said I have not been in front of a GS3 for a little while but this should help. Sorry for the long description, but it sounded to me like you were not aware of how the whole Cue system typically works in a console.

As for the original poster... You are kind of stuck in a price range where you really are not going to have many options in the new console range where quality will improve much. As far as I know, Allen Hetah does not make the GS series any more, so if you wnat a new Allen Heath you will probably be limited to a 24 and maybe a 32 channel 4 buss GL. I would also reccomend you give consideration to the Mackie Onyx line if it falls within your price range. The newer Onyx seems to have made improvements over the older VLZ lines that are pretty vast. The preamps seem nicer, the EQ is much more responsive, crosstalk issues and headroom issues have both been adressed as well. With the current line-ups I would say that the two consoles are about equal in terms of sonic integrity and features.


if i could squeeze 3000 more out of thin air, i'd be going after a trident, but i feel that this is a stepping stone.

I'm pretty confident in the purchase, i am glad i bought new though for no other reason than if issues do come up, i have the warranty.

Do you have an opinion on those build issues in the newest GL models? I would hope that they have addressed these issues.

Thanks X
 
The build on the new GL's seems pretty good. I am not an Allen heath dealer anymore so I have only used the new ones a few times and I do not stock them in my rental inventory. I am actually trying to get rid of all of our Allen Heath stuff and go all Midas analog and Yamaha Digital.

The pot problem will most likely still exist, but I have not seen that problem in Allen Heath consoles that are less than 5 years old at least. I have had my ML for probably 4 years or more now and have not had that problem, but then we take care of our ML5000 a lot better than all of our GL's and Mix Wiz's. I have had power supply problems with the ML, but those problems are in the ML power supplies themselves, and not at the connector like on the GL's. My bet is that with both the pot issues and the power supply connector issues that they will pop up in the newer GL stuff, but I would not be overly concerned about that. They only seem to happen in aging consoles. If you pack them around a lot most consoles of any age will develop little issues. Even the Big Midas XL's:)
 
xstatic said:
The build on the new GL's seems pretty good. I am not an Allen heath dealer anymore so I have only used the new ones a few times and I do not stock them in my rental inventory. I am actually trying to get rid of all of our Allen Heath stuff and go all Midas analog and Yamaha Digital.

The pot problem will most likely still exist, but I have not seen that problem in Allen Heath consoles that are less than 5 years old at least. I have had my ML for probably 4 years or more now and have not had that problem, but then we take care of our ML5000 a lot better than all of our GL's and Mix Wiz's. I have had power supply problems with the ML, but those problems are in the ML power supplies themselves, and not at the connector like on the GL's. My bet is that with both the pot issues and the power supply connector issues that they will pop up in the newer GL stuff, but I would not be overly concerned about that. They only seem to happen in aging consoles. If you pack them around a lot most consoles of any age will develop little issues. Even the Big Midas XL's:)


thanks! i'm not worried, but i'll let you know how i like it when it shows up.
 
thanks alot for the explanation, gives me the courage to open up the mixer again and its worth the effort to resolder a few wires.

midas analog and yamaha digital are the way to go for live!!

But sooo expensive
 
earworm said:
thanks alot for the explanation, gives me the courage to open up the mixer again and its worth the effort to resolder a few wires.

midas analog and yamaha digital are the way to go for live!!

But sooo expensive


so i received the A&H Gl2400.

I love it. There is a difference in the sound. More textural. It seems more punchy and clear.

I'm excited.
 
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