New Computer

fritsthegirl

Taste of home
I'm sorry, I know this has probably been asked a billion times before....don't hesitate to point me to the thread. I couldn't find a recent one.

The time has come for a new computer, my laptop freaks out when my mouse even gets close to launching Reaper. It records OK but it can't handle the midi or vsti's at all. I don't want a MAC, but I'm open to laptop or PC. I want to spend say £250-£350 (excl. monitor).

What are all you guys using in terms of spec: processor, RAM, hard drive, etc?
The desktops I've looked at are not particularly amazing but I think they ought to do. 2.90GHz, 3MB Intel processor, 4GB RAM, 500GB hard drive - £299. All of that is about 20 times more than what I'm using now. :D

Also, does Windows 8 suck as bad as I expect it to? Anyone tried Reaper with Linux? I read the VSTis in Reaper aren't compatible with Linux. Not sure if that's true.

Ta. :)
 
Hi fritsjunior...

As I just said in the other thread, my system may be way overkill - Xeon processor & 16GB RAM & Win 7 and system usage for my more complex pieces gets to all or 2 or 3 % most times, so you probably don't need to go quite that far... :D

If you could, I'd get a bigger hard drive, and check it's 7200RPM, and ensure that if you do get 4GB RAM, that you understand how it's delivered and what options you have to upgrade... make sure they haven't used up all the slots to get 4GB which means to upgrade you may have to throw that out and buy all new, if you follow me...

You just have to watch the budget PCs/laptops in terms of how they're built and what components they used.

And don't underestimate the utility of having two monitors at your disposal, so if you bought another laptop and already have a monitor, then that makes life easier too...

Can't help you with the rest, sorry, except that I deliberately bought ahead of Win 8 because of what I read about it, and I didn't want to deal with driver and other MS issues in a new OS... patting myself on the back for that one!
 
Okay, my 2 cents:

Laptop or desktop doesn't really matter, though you'll spend a lot less on a desktop.

The speed of the processor is less important than the number of cores. You want a quad-core processor, preferably an Intel i7 (or the AMD equivalent) but at least a quad-core i5. Anything over 2 GHz is fine.

Next, you need at least 8 gig of RAM. VSTs use memory, and so do tracks. I do well with 8 gig on my editing desktop, but I have 16 gig in my laptop.

Hard drive speed and size are of little importance. For a laptop, you'll use a USB drive for storing your tracks and mixes. For this reason (and for speedier backups), look for a laptop with USB 3.0. For a desktop, you want two drives -- 500 gig is plenty for the primary drive that will hold the operating system and your programs and settings. Then you will want a humongous drive for your tracks and mixes. However, as backups are critical (trust me on this one), an external drive will work fine for this purpose as well.

You can still get firewire cards for a desktop, which will give you a somewhat wider choice of audio interfaces, though you're hardly limited if you just go with USB.

Multiple monitors are very, very helpful for music work. Most laptops and desktops can support two external monitors, usually a combination of one HDMI and one VGA, with the stock video card. Unless you also plan to play games, the stock graphics are more than adequate for music use.

For monitors, the higher the resolution the better. I like to use 1920 x 1200 for music work, as it displays more tracks than 1920 x 1080 and doesn't break the bank. Two monitors are better than one, and three are even better than two. Make sure one monitor can pivot to a vertical position. That's helpful for working with lots of tracks when recording, and is really useful if you use scoring programs like Finale for Sibelius.
 
Whaddaya think about building your own? It's pretty easy and you might make savings. I googled 'budget DAW build' and came up with a few ideas people had for builds last year around your budget - prices now might be even lower.

Otherwise, I'd suggest looking out for offers similar to what Wheelema picked up (albeit in the US). I think he details what he got in his signature - check out the Cave - he has lots of threads in there(!).

If your new PC is just for DAW/internet/simple games, you don't necessarily need a graphics card - the onchip graphics on the newer Intel chips will more than suffice (I run two HD monitors from the HD3000 graphics built in to my CPU).
 
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Thats great!

I think about WIN 8 as WIN vista and WIN 7 as WIN XP :)

My PC:
i7 - 3770 @ 3.40Ghz
16 GB RAM
Windows 7 Ultimate
1TB hdd
and the motherboard has USB 3.0 (atm I use it for my external HDD only)

I guess its a bit too much at the moment, but I know I don't have to worry about upgrades in the near future.
I can tweak and change EQs without any delays.
Response from machine is fast and pleasure to work with :)

It cost me around 400£.
 
Used?
i'm having trouble pricing that gear below about £560.
No, new :)
Well, I got Windows separately. Were you pricing with or without OS?
Bought it from company in Latvia.
Capital
I asked them to swap the original motherboard and video card for motherboard with integrated video card and increase the memory from 8Gb to 16Gb. That was ok with them.
 
No, new :)
Well, I got Windows separately. Were you pricing with or without OS?
Bought it from company in Latvia.
Capital
I asked them to swap the original motherboard and video card for motherboard with integrated video card and increase the memory from 8Gb to 16Gb. That was ok with them.


I was pricing without OS.
Did the shipping set you back much?
I'd be tempted to check that out.
 
I think about WIN 8 as WIN vista and WIN 7 as WIN XP :)
From a marketing perspective, I think you're exactly right. Perhaps another analogy would be WindowsME or, god forbid, BOB (anyone remember that disaster?) to XP.

However, in response to the OP, though Windows 8 does, indeed, suck (and rather badly) due to the Metro . . . uh . . . "Modern" interface and the omission of some critical tools from the classic desktop, there are third-party add-ins that range from free to a few pounds that allow Win 8 to boot directly into the desktop and restore the omitted functionality. Win 8 is actually slightly (very slightly) faster than Win 7 and, at least in theory, should support any program or driver that is supported in Win 7. Unless the OP builds her own computer (which is a great idea -- I've been building my own since the 1980s), the question is really moot, as it will be difficult to find a new, assembled PC that comes with Win 7,
 
Thanks everyone, this is all certainly food for thought and really, really helpful to me. I've been out of the computer game for a while so I don't really know much about the modern hardware available these days. I definitely wouldn't be able to build one on my own or anything, but with a bit of help I might be able to manage it. Maybe....

I assume things haven't changed so much that you can't still clean off the operating system and re-install with XP? I don't like the sound of Windows 8, but if that's not the case, it's good to know there are ways to get around the annoying parts of it with add-ins.

I hadn't really considered building my own, but I agree it's always the best value for money. I should ask around and see if I can bludge the favour of someone before I commit to buying something out of the box. But I will look into the prices of some of the complete machines with the specs you have suggested here too. Thanks again, love that there are computer gurus on this forum. :)
 
I hadn't really considered building my own, but I agree it's always the best value for money. I should ask around and see if I can bludge the favour of someone before I commit to buying something out of the box. But I will look into the prices of some of the complete machines with the specs you have suggested here too. Thanks again, love that there are computer gurus on this forum. :)

Well, I'm no 'computer guru' but I built my own computer (with some help). In fact, a friend put it together but I was present for most of the decision making process.

Be very careful going this route as it is possible to make mistakes. The theory is, you go to Ebay and computer discount shops for new, unused parts and everything should work. Many times it works out but there are potential pitfalls, unless you're highly savvy about long term performance and compatibility issues of each individual part. For this reason, I've had the best performance out of factory builds, such as HP and Dell systems that other people have finished with.

The point is, companies like HP and Dell cherry pick their components so they know everything will work in a stable fashion, where it concerns mechanical build and driver stability. In some cases, the hard drive may come loaded with a host of extraneous stuff, such as trials of software and things they hope will appeal to you. Most of it useless rubbish which you can do without.

Going up a rung or two, there are companies who build computers specifically for the music and sound engineering trade, which I assume are built in a more focused manner. Mostly their users will likely not use them for any other purpose than recording and editing sound. So that's a potential elimination of typical Windows bugs and viruses which affect the PC platform.

Mac, on the other hand, limit their hardware and software choices to only that which they can confirm works seamlessly - hence the term "Just works" you hear from most Mac users. They still get hiccups and problems, but not usually on the same scale.

This doesn't mean you have to have a Mac to get reliable performance but, judging from a lot of users experiences, it arguably does take the guesswork out of building and organising a computer system. The only drawback is the expense. But then, arguably, you might pay a similar amount for a PC built to high professional standards. I haven't researched exact prices, so I guess only you can confirm that when you go shopping.

So it depends a lot on how much you're willing to shell out. There are people in this forum who self build and report extremely high levels of performance and stability and there are 'callers' coming into this forum every day, seeking help with fundamental problems, like sound cards suddenly ceasing to work and a host of other irritating bugs and glitches. From this, we can surmise knowledge and homework, prior to building plus, perhaps a measure of luck... Who knows?

I guess your choice will depend on how much you plan to rely on the computer in your own workflow as a recording artist. This obviously differs from person to person and their position in the industry. If relied on by others, in a 'time=money' situation, a studio MUST have a computer which can be relied on 100%. It's no good throwing together a bunch of parts which seem like good value at the time, like I did and hoping for the best. I wouldn't want to see anyone else go through what I did.

You might want to set a budget for a computer that gets used for certain tasks, as and when needed to allow more for other gear such as musical instruments. Or, you might want this computer to form the 'central hub' of your operation and be responsible for a host of complex tasks. I think that might be the first place to start drawing up your plans and from that, you'll get an idea of how much you'll need to spend.

I hope this helps. But remember, all advice you receive is subjective and based on each person's experience. Mine is not extensive, so all I can do is throw in to contribute to the 'melting pot'. Only you can decide what to do with it.

All the best.
 
4GB RAm will work fine for you until you get heavy on the VSTi's - you can always stem-render them to eliminate any issues.
500GB hard drive will also do you find for a long time. I've had my computer for a couple of years, record regularly, use it for everything else including videos, d/l music, etc. I manage my files, and am still only at 60% capacity. I back up onto a USB drive and when the hard drive starts getting too full, I'll backup to another USB drive and delete theoriginal video and sound files from the computer (finished projects) to free up space.
 
With all due respect to Doctor Varney, I'll add my humble opinion that building your own computer is not that difficult, nor is it likely to result in damage to either the components or the builder.

Computer components are standardized and can be purchased off-the-shelf from a variety of sources. Newegg, Amazon, J&R and, of course, B&H (the platinum standard for mail order) are reliable on-line sources for everything. I wouldn't suggest buying components from eBay unless you know, absolutely, what you are buying and are satisfied as to the reliability of the seller.

You will need:

(1) case: these come in a variety of shapes and sizes, but the choice is more aesthetic than anything.
(2) motherboard: this is the only component that needs to be "matched," in that there are specific motherboards for specific CPUs. They get matched up by "socket" type but, generally, when you buy a CPU or motherboard on-line, the on-line seller site will automatically recommend a matching component.
(3) CPU: you choose one based on the same considerations you would use in choosing an assembled computer.
(4) cooler/fan: CPUs generate heat, so you must purchase a cooling fan that mounts on top of it.
(5) memory: buy as much as you can afford. The type of memory you buy is determined by the motherboard, but all the on-line memory sites, e.g. Crucial, let you plunk in the motherboard type and tell you which kind of memory to buy.
(6) power supply: These are standardized items. As a music computer is not necessarily a high-power computer in the sense of running lots of hard drives and power-hungry graphics cards, most any standard power supply will do. As with anything else, the higher the spec (in this case, wattage) the better.
(7) hard drive: here's where you can really maximize your dollar. 1 TB hard drives are commodity items but, better still, the cost of SSDs (solid state drives) has dropped dramatically in the last year or so. An SSD is faster than a traditional platter-based hard drive by at least an order of magnitude. If you stick with SATA drives (which are most drives these days), the connections are all standardized and the computer won't care whether it has a platter-based hard drive or an SSD -- but you sure will.
(8) graphics card: this may not even be necessary as many motherboards have them built in. If your MB doesn't, then just get the cheapest one you can find. There are several different formats for graphics cards, which have to be matched to the available slots on your motherboard.
(9) keyboard and mouse: all motherboards have USB ports already built in. Just buy the ones you like, stick 'em in the USB ports and you're ready to go.
(10) a case fan: a commodity item that comes in standard sizes
(11) a CD or CD/DVD or CD/DVD/BluRay drive: your choice -- also a commodity item.

Assembly is really, really straight forward:

The hardest part (and it's not particularly hard) is installing the CPU into the motherboard. The CPU plugs into a multi-pin socket. It can only go in one way and there are guides built-in to align it correctly. The CPU cooler/fan goes on top of the CPU and locks it to the motherboard. It has little levers that lock-it down. The only "tricky" part is that you must put a tiny dab of silicone grease (for heat dissipation) on the top of the CPU before installing the fan. The fan will have a plug that plugs onto pins on the motherboard. The motherboard pins will be clearly marked, "CPU fan" or something similar.

The memory comes next. It fits into clearly-identifiable slots and snaps into place. It can only go in one way as there are little notches that line up with the slot -- you can't install it the wrong way, as it simply won't go in.

The motherboard is put in next. It attaches to the case using some combination of plastic stand-offs, clips or screws (all of which are provided with the motherboard and case). The power supply attaches with four screws. It plugs into the motherboard with one or two connectors. The connectors can only attach in one way and only where they belong -- you can't plug them in the wrong way.

The hard drive goes in a little cage and is also attached with screws. It attaches to the motherboard with a SATA cable which, again, can only attach in one way and in only where it belongs. You can't plug it in the wrong way. You also attach a lead from the power supply to the drive. The leads are hardwired into the power supply, and you can use anyone that fits the hard drive. Again, you can't plug it in the wrong way -- if the plug fits, it is plugged in correctly.

The CD/DVD/BluRay drive installs the same way as the hard drive and has the same kind of connectors. It doesn't matter which power lead you use, or which SATA plug you use on the motherboard -- you can plug them in anywhere and the motherboard will sort them out automatically.

The graphics card pushes into an open slot and is secured by a screw.

Lastly, attach the case fan to the case with 2 or 4 screws (depending on the fan). The fan will have a plug that either plugs into the motherboard (on pins labeled "fan") or into the power supply. As with everything else, it can only be plugged in one way.

That's it. You've built a computer. Close up the case, plug it into the wall, put an operating system installation disk, e.g. WinXP or Win7 or (god forbid) Win8) into the CD/DVD drive and you're ready to go.

While it hasn't always been true, it's almost impossible to assemble a modern computer from components the wrong way. The worst that will happen is something didn't seat properly -- you didn't push in the plug enough, or snap the memory in all the way, etc. If that happens the computer won't work. Then, all you do is open it up, make sure everything is seated properly (and you didn't forget to connect something, like power for the drives) and close it back up again.

I suspect there are step-by-step instructions all over the internet. The thing to remember is that building a computer doesn't really mean building anything from scratch -- it only entails buying standardized components of the shelf, and plugging them all in. It is far more like putting together a home theater than the electronics kits I used to build as a kid in which I bought separate capacitors, resistors, transistors and the like and, following a cryptic schematic, soldered them all together, plugged the resulting assembly in and hoped it didn't blow up or catch fire.
 
If you're going to do it, watch a YouTube video to see how it's done. In fact, do that first to see how easy it is.
 
The point is, companies like HP and Dell cherry pick their components so they know everything will work in a stable fashion, where it concerns mechanical build and driver stability. In some cases, the hard drive may come loaded with a host of extraneous stuff, such as trials of software and things they hope will appeal to you. Most of it useless rubbish which you can do without.

Going up a rung or two, there are companies who build computers specifically for the music and sound engineering trade, which I assume are built in a more focused manner. Mostly their users will likely not use them for any other purpose than recording and editing sound. So that's a potential elimination of typical Windows bugs and viruses which affect the PC platform.

.

This is the exact reason (apart from the sensational price!) I bought a HP business machine rather that one from a retailer that's more a general PC. My last two laptops have been Compaq, which is the same company really, and the amount of crap loaded on that I've had to go an ditch was truly stunning... with the new one I just got a computer, and OS and only ancillary stuff that was actually useful, like a PDF reader (VST manuals) and a zip utility (unpacking VSTs). No games, no HP system performance monitor / tune up program.... etc.

As a result, it was fairly easy to set up.
 
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