Do-It_Yourselfer

  • Thread starter Thread starter Natural Gass
  • Start date Start date
apl said:
Not meaning to be contentious, but the Carvin kit is cheaper, and it plays awesome.

Yep - kits are cheaper - and while I haven't seen a Carvin kit guitar, the Carvin stuff I have seen (inc the Carvin PA speakers I used to own) and a Carvin gtr amp were all really good.

But the original post stated:

"I'm thinking of building a guitar . . . I'm pretty handy with wood and electronics"

So I figured we're talking about really building it, not assembling a kit.

. . . and if that's the case, I stand by my original post.

And you weren't being contentious at all.

:)
 
Oh, sorry, I understand, now, foo. You're right, building and assembling are two different things.

And hey, ibanezrocks, I've seen some amazing guitars on the Carvin board built like you describe. The neck and its intracacies, fingerboard, frets, truss rod, etc., are the most challenging part of guitar building, and that Carvin neck you point out takes all that difficulty out of the process. But it still ain't a cakewalk. You can also call and ask about getting that in different woods, including their 5 piece (striped) version.

(Light, I don't mean it's trivial!)
 
ibanezrocks said:
I was just wondering how easy it would be to make a neck through body guitar if you bought a neck like this one
wouldn't it just be gluing on some sides, routing it for pickups and controls and then finishing it? or is there something tricky im missing?

if it isnt that hard that would be pretty cool because you could make whatever shape of body and headstock you want (optional unshaped headstock on carvin)



No, it is considerably more than just gluing on the wings. I build neck-throughs myself. It is a bit of a nightmare. They are about 25 times harder to finish than bolt or set neck instruments, because you have to finish them while they are together. Nightmare. Now, the Carvin neck saves you SOME of the neck shaping work, but you still have to shape the neck/body transition, at least a little. This is, by far, them most annoying bit of wood working on these things. The geometry of getting this bit right is almost impossible for me to explain, but it is a lot of picky, finicky, VERY annoying file work, always making sure you don’t fuck up the body with your file. This is also the one area of amateur guitars which is almost always lacking. I take that back, it is ALWAYS bulky and uncomfortable to play. I see guitars made by students in luthery schools, and they all have the same problems; Bulky, square, uncomfortable neck/body transitions. Even my first one had this problem, and I had my dad standing over my shoulder saying, "That is not right yet." Of course, my problem was that I was making a maple neck, and after three eight hour days trying to shape the fucker, I just gave up. Mahogany necks are much better, if you ask me. If I didn't like the guitars I am making so much, I would NEVER make another neck-through. Bolt-ons are MUCH, MUCH easier. Even set necks (which are still a pain) are easier.

Neck-throughs have other long term maintenance problems, as well. There is a lot of tension on the neck of a guitar, and though the light strings of electric guitars, and the monolithic construction of a neck-through's neck help, it is still a concern. Guys who repair guitars KNOW, for a fact, that every acoustic guitar ever made will eventually need a neck reset. It is a given. The neck angle changes, and the guitar needs to have that angle put back where it belongs. There is just no way around it. Well, on an acoustic, it is relatively easy (though time consuming). We know how to do it. But how do you take the neck of a neck-through electric if the angle changes? You can't, of course. So you need to be damn sure the neck is as stable as possible, and you need to do every-thing you can to keep that neck where it belongs. I use two carbon fiber rods which run the length of the neck, which actually run into the top of the guitar (I have a Les Paul thickness carved maple top on my guitars). This helps to resist the pull of the strings on the neck. A neck through has other advantages over acoustics in this regard. In order to sound good, an acoustic needs to be built rather light, with the result that the gluing surface available for the neck is rather small. There is no need for a gluing surface on a neck-through, as the neck is a monolithic piece from one end of the strings to the other. None the less, it is a concern.

Like I said before, buy some books. They will give you far better advice than a bunch of guys on the internet, even me. I mean, I am not going to spend a year or so writing and rewriting a post on a newsgroup. I would spend that much time writing a book which I would get paid for. Buy some books.


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
Foo -

Since this would be my first attempt at building a guitar, I think I will go with a kit and call it "assembling" a guitar. I've been checking out bodies & necks at warmoth.com

I'll have to take a look at the Carvin Kits. The thing about warmoth is that I think they will custom route the body for ya. I'm into the Fender style body routed for a bid fat Gibson pick-up in the bridge position and basically nothing else.
 
Natural Gass said:
I'll have to take a look at the Carvin Kits. The thing about warmoth is that I think they will custom route the body for ya. I'm into the Fender style body routed for a bid fat Gibson pick-up in the bridge position and basically nothing else.


Sure, but so will Warmoth, or American Guitar Works, so don't let that be the deciding factor. Warmoth makes, by the way, the most consistent product you will find. Their stuff is ALWAYS good. In thirty-three years of assembling these kinds of things for people, our shop has come across maybe one bad neck from Warmoth. While using 1/10 of the number of Fender necks, in the same time period, we have had to deal with dozens of bad Fender necks. Warmoth makes great product.


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
Sounds good - and the money you save by buying the kit will allow you to buy really good hardware and a great pickup.

Tuners are really important - I like Gotohs - and a good solid bridge. Don't know if you're going the whammy bar route - I have a Floyd Rose on mine and wouldn't go that route again. I think there are simpler systems available now that still stay in tune (unless you're dive bombing like a madman). I just use the whammy for 'shimmer', so the Floyd is way more than I need and it's a pain to change strings, intonate and tune.
Light can probably help you out more with suggestions on that.

If money is short, don't worry about paint for now - just make sure the wood is sealed. The paint will make a (very) minor change in tone but so minimal it's barely worth talking about. I once knew a guy who had a Telecaster he covered in snakeskin - lots of finish options!

Also, I wouldn't bother with a tone control - I think they're a waste and just a hole for some of your signal to get drowned in (but that's just me 'cos I never use them).

Pickup - ah yes!

So many ways to go . . .

;)

Enjoy
 
foo said:
Tuners are really important - I like Gotohs - and a good solid bridge.

The Gotoh 510's are, by far, the finest gears being made today. To use anything else on a new guitar is, in my opinion, foolishness. They rock.


foo said:
Don't know if you're going the whammy bar route - I have a Floyd Rose on mine and wouldn't go that route again. I think there are simpler systems available now that still stay in tune (unless you're dive bombing like a madman). I just use the whammy for 'shimmer', so the Floyd is way more than I need and it's a pain to change strings, intonate and tune.
Light can probably help you out more with suggestions on that.

Also, I wouldn't bother with a tone control - I think they're a waste and just a hole for some of your signal to get drowned in (but that's just me 'cos I never use them).


I kind of agree on the Floyd thing. If you need it, you need it, but they are sure a pain. I like the Wilkison trems Gotoh is making these days. Good stuff.

Can't agree on the tone control though. I use them all the time. Gotta have it. I also could never sell a guitar without one (nor, aparently, could PRS, since all their guitar seem to have them these days).


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
Light, are you saying that Carvin will custom route also? I didn't find any info on their web site. It looks like a Carvin kit would be less $, but sounds like Warmoth has the leg-up on quality.

A Strat or Tele style body? Mustang, Jassmaster? I was leaning towards a Tele cuz I already have a Strat.

Anybody have any good ideas on a bridge? I was thinking tune-o-matic but mshilarious says it won't work well with tele-style body. I'm not interested in a wiggle stick so the Floyd is out. I have an old Washburn Raven that strings through the body and has brass (?) saddles. That looks simple. I want something that will provide low action.

I think this is where I'm at:

Fender style body with forearm and tummy cuts
Fender maple neck medium jumbo frets (I might be into a thinner neck, ideas?)
Rear routed so I don't have to hide the wood under a big plastic pickgard
Fat-ass humbucker in the bridge position
Bridge?
Volume and Tone knob
Natural to golden finish with black hardware
Gotoh tuners
 
Natural Gass said:
1. Light, are you saying that Carvin will custom route also? I didn't find any info on their web site.

2. Anybody have any good ideas on a bridge?

3. Fender maple neck medium jumbo frets (I might be into a thinner neck, ideas?)

1. Call. The website does not list everything.

2. That fixed-tail strat style bridge with strings through the body is good.

3. The Carvin neck is much thinner than a regular strat.
 
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