Cheap cheap phantom power

[Deege]

I have a soundcard with 8 inputs, and I want to record drums, each on a seperate track. I am getting 2 overhead condeser mics, so I will need phantom power, which my soundcard doesn't have. What is the cheapest thing I can get to have power for 2 mics? is there some sort of adapter, or a good cheap mixer with minimal features? I just need phantom power for 2 mics...
thanks!

 

[darrin_h2000]

I once picked up an audiobuddy used for 25.00

 

[WIZZLE]

Hey, I have noticed people saying things like they go stuff used or second hand. Well I want to know where, cuz I went to Guitar Center and Mars Music and they both have the worst selection of new stuff it was horrible. Forget about used stuff, that was just pathetic any one know where I can pick up some nice used stuff?

 

[Michael Jones]

...any one know where I can pick up some nice used stuff?

E-Bay's a good place to start.
Your local pawn shops are another.
Sometimes demo units come up at retailers.

Here's some others:
http://www.mercenaryaudio.com/
http://www.db-engineering.com/index2.ivnu
http://www.vintageking.com/
http://www.soundbroker.com/
http://www.danalexanderaudio.com/

That's just a few. There's a plethora of used equipment available.

Ooops! Almost forgot:
https://homerecording.com/bbs/forumdisplay.php?forumid=6

Gotta support the home team!

 

[Deege]

...

Yeah, but I mean, I am asking for specific products I can buy for a moderate amount. Don't gotta be used...just something that has maybe 2 ins, and a stereo out...or even 2 seperate small adapters for phantom power or something. Anyone know any?

 

[sjjohnston]

Phantom

Several manufacturers make boxes that are just phantom power supply. The Rolls one (2 channels) is $57.99 at Markertek. Perhaps there's another one cheaper somewhere.

As for used stuff like this it's not the sort of thing that tends to get much attention from the serious used equipment dealers. It's just too small to generate much of a profit, I think. Some online places to look might be eBay, digibid, rec.music.makers.marketplace and the Harmony Central want ads.

Another option is to build one. I don't think it's hilariously complicated to build a battery-powered one, though it's not trivial either. High-powered math suggests that 5 9-volt batteries in series can supply 45 volts, which is probably close enough. Four 12-volt batteries is dead on the money. Not that I've ever actualy built one myself, or anything ....

A quick search of websites (or posts on r.a.p.) should yield a description or rough schematic, I think. I believe there's a standard resistor value -- which is the same no matter where your 48 volts is coming from -- between the supply and the mic leg (fairly large: the mic needs very little current), and I guess you'd need to block the DC from the next box in the signal chain with a capacitor (unless the input of the next box is expected to do that itself ... if the next box is a mic preamp which doesn't supply phantom power, I suppose it wouldn't expect to find it on its inputs, though ... but this is rapidly getting beyond my limited knowledge).

 

[omtayslick]

cheap cheap fantum pwr

www.carvin.com small box, 2 channels phantom power for $24.99

 

[Sennheiser]

E-bay is a good place to start. Don't buy from an e-bay dealer. They are out, for the most part, to sell it for what they get in their storefronts. That's no shit. I've seen the same prices for gear from dealers that AMS is selling it for. And AMS has free shipping!

Buy used from individuals and don't bid on the first piece of gear that you are looking for. There will be another one along just like it in a day or two, if there aren't already a half-dozen listed. Unless it's a really rare piece and then you'll pay high dollar anyway if it's popular and in demand.

I'm putting a studio together right now (my third) and have spent about $1600+ for gear that would have a total cost three times+ that if it was new. I AM working in analog so I get a break right off the bat anyway with some gear.

Here's an example for you: A like-new MD441U for $290. With manual, box, and frequency analysis sheet. Walk into your local Pro Audio store and ask them for one at that price. They're not likely to get off the floor any time soon.

Watch for the deals, don't bid first, and put the item in question on your watch list and WATCH IT! If the bid is too high go find another one just like it. Ask a lot of questions. If you do not get a reply within 36-48 hours, don't bid. Watch for evasiveness and "dancing around the question". If you don't get a straight answer, pass on it.

If you really want the item and can afford it but have been outbid, do not bid again until near the end. I have found that sniping a bid is best done at 15-25 seconds before EOA. I mean hitting the return key at that time. You better have a stopwatch and a good connection to pull this off too.

Sometimes the "Buy it Now" options are the best when someone wants fast cash and is willing to take a loss on their gear. Load the page you want to look at with "Items recently listed" The page updates about every four to six hours. Pay attention to this page for the gear you are looking for. You can find some really good deals this way. Don't enter a specific piece of gear. Enter brand names. If you get crap like albums popping up with say a search for DBX, type in "DBX -album"

Hope this helps. Buyer beware.

 

[Michael Jones]

...do not bid again until near the end. I have found that sniping a bid is best done at 15-25 seconds before EOA...

That doesn't work very well, at least not in my dealings.
If someone "proxy bids" then you'll never snip the bid.
Enter the maximum amount you're willing to pay, and if someone out bids you, it wasn't meant to be.

With a proxy bid, your bid is increased incrementally untill someone out bids your max.

 

[Sennheiser]

True that does not work for all items, but it has worked succesfully for me many times. You have to use the bid history page to make an educated guess at the proxy bid amount.

But as you say if the proxy is high you would have to bid very high to win.

You can tell approximate bid amounts by looking at the bid history and how many times someone had to bid to finally be on top. This really WON"T work with a high proxy bid, because many time the bidder trying to top the proxy and will give up.

 

[sjjohnston]

eBay

Sennheiser gives some good advice on eBay auctions. I agree.

Here are the keys in my (admittedly limited) view:

- eBay gives you occasional opportunities to get something at a good price. It also gives you the opportunity to pay way more than you should for something (all it takes is one other fool who's doing the same thing). It's up to you to know the difference.

- Research the price! If it's something that still sells new, know what it goes for. Look at prices from previous eBay auctions! Story: there is one dealer who has stuff on eBay constantly at starting prices slightly higher than what he has for the same item on his own website. And they sell!

- Don't let yourself feel committed to buy a particular item; be patient. The usual psychology of buying things is that (i) you think about it, consider whether to buy it, which model to get, etc. (ii) you decide what you want, then (iii) you get all excited about getting it, and want to go right out and pick it up. If you do this with an item on eBay, you'll be very susceptible to overpaying. Whenever you decide to bid, be mentally prepared (i) to buy at your bid price or (ii) to be outbid and not get it. If you decide you really want something, it might take 10 auctions over a month before you get a good deal on one.

- My usual approach if I see something good: (i) decide what my maximum bid is and actually write it down, but don't bid, (ii) if it's still under my maximum as time runs out, put in a bid at my maximum in the last minute. I bid based on what I am willing to pay, I don't even consider what the other guy is trying to do. It's a proxy bid anyway; my last-minute bid functions the same way it would have functioned if I'd put it in three days earlier, when I first saw the auction. The reason to wait for the last minute is somewhat psychological: if an item goes to $200 three days before it ends, other bidders (who may not even know what the item is, or have any use for it) have time to start thinking "$200, that sounded high at first, but maybe it's a good price ... maybe I'll bid $250 ...." If it sits at $1 until the last minute, they don't have a chance to think that. If everyone is approaching it the same way I am, it doesn't really make any difference.

- Most "buy it now" prices are high, but some are steals. Story (which, coincidentally, involves a Sennheiser mic): a guy listed an old MD421 with a "buy it now" of $75. I saw it, and thought "hmm," but by the time I came back and looked at it again, someone had put in a bid under $75 (which, since it was over the reserve, eliminated the "buy it now" option). The mic eventally went for over $300.

- You've got to apply some critical judgment to the descriptions. "Powers up, but I have no way to test" might really mean, "It's broken, and I know that."

- Watch for handling charges.

- Some opportunities for bargains: mis-spelled names, mis-classified items, auctions that end on weekends.

 

[darrin_h2000]

that sucks when that happens. Ive missed the boat by stopping to think about it.