Studio Building-If you had to do it all over again...

dwillis45

Número sesenta nueve
What would you do differently this time? What mistakes would you remedy? What would you avoid?
 
Stay tuned...I'll let you know after my build kicks off in June. :)

I think most people here don't actually "build"...it's more about conversion of a spare room in the house, but from that perspective, I would say that my biggest change is simply the sheer volume I will add in the new space compared to the current one.
My current space comes out to about 2300 sqft...the new space will be close to 10000 sqft, and that alone will make for much easier room treatment and fine tuning.

In addition to that, I will be able to move my console/mix position much further from the front wall...and I will also change the location of my racked gear...from the sides of the console and then another two off to one side...they will most likely all be directly behind the mix position, about 4-5'...so that when mixing, I can say in the stereo image while reaching back to adjust some rack gear. I always hated having to roll my chair off to the side, make a change, then roll it back to the center so I can check the adjustment...etc.
Finally, I'm going to run most of the audio and electric cabling under the hardwood floor, going from the console and the bays to the gear and to some wall plates at a few locations. That way it will be uncluttered, though TBH, right now if you walked into my smaller studio, you would hard pressed to see a single cable anywhere...they are all behind the gear...but it's a PITA getting at anything because it's all stacked using every available inch of free space.

So I think the biggest thing for me will be the extra space...not having everything crammed up (I've accumulated too many guitars and amps)...but also the bigger space will really be beneficial to the acoustics, which are just not easy to deal with in smaller rooms like most of us have to make do with.
I'm anticipating strategic but minimal treatment. I won't need to stuff traps wall-to-wall to fight off those pesky nodes and nulls! :D

PS...love your avatar.

"We're gonna need a bigger boat."

Hooper!


:p
 
I've had a bunch of recording spaces dating back to the late 70's and 80's. Most of them were makeshift. Like sitting on a bed with an 8-track. Or a kitchen chair with a four track.

When I finally moved to the suburbs and had a real house, I built a room-in-a-room design. Never again. It had great isolation, but it was way too small. Well, duh! If you have an 8ft ceiling and you raise the floor, you're basically working in solitary confinement. Besides, the ventilation was too poor and the volume of the room too small. The first reflections beat the actual sound coming out of the monitors. :laughings:

My room now is much better, although I wish I could start from scratch and begin with room dimensions that are somewhat more ideal. I'd also love to bust through the ceiling to create something higher. There's room but I can't imagine the cost. :eek:
 
I would probably throw money at the space rather than doing most of the trapping DIY. You probably cut cost in half using DIY. But it's a lot of work--even if you know what you're doing. And it's hard to beat the weight of commercially made traps. Most of those use lumber that's smaller and lighter than the off-the-shelf stuff from the big box store. This is a real advantage when mounting ceiling clouds. Especially if you are doing all the work.
 
What would you do differently this time? What mistakes would you remedy? What would you avoid?


Not be in a rush. Learn more first. Plan more first. Check more reviews at more sites before deciding.
Not worry about myths or whizdumb from the internet, or what high school seniors think they know.
Not worry about the room. It is what it is and it is , so either use it or don't do anything.
 
Not be in a rush. Learn more first. Plan more first. Check more reviews at more sites before deciding.
Not worry about myths or whizdumb from the internet, or what high school seniors think they know.
Not worry about the room. It is what it is and it is , so either use it or don't do anything.

Why are you so bitter and wasting time trying to put down others that give advice?

I have seen many responding to your queries. And you just seem to argue for no apparent reason.

Serious question: 'Did you lose a child or have some life changing experience that makes you want to lash out at others for having different experience than you have'?

If so, then I feel for you man.
 
I wouldn't go series 500. It made sense a few years ago because I thought it would be compact and give me flexibility to change modules I didn't care for. I think regular rack units give you more bang for the buck. Especially now that more vendors are making quality stuff that's available at reasonable prices.
 
Why are you so bitter and wasting time trying to put down others that give advice?

I have seen many responding to your queries. And you just seem to argue for no apparent reason.

Serious question: 'Did you lose a child or have some life changing experience that makes you want to lash out at others for having different experience than you have'?

If so, then I feel for you man.



WTF

I gave my advice. How is that putting anybody else down?

I only will 'argue' when the facts say the answer is wrong that they give me.

But what they mostly give me is a big PileObleep.
 
I wouldn't go series 500. It made sense a few years ago because I thought it would be compact and give me flexibility to change modules I didn't care for. I think regular rack units give you more bang for the buck. Especially now that more vendors are making quality stuff that's available at reasonable prices.

This time around, I decided to go almost completely rackless. I wanted to try pure simplicity to see if it would improve workflow, outcomes, etc. So I'm working with an interface (Apogee Duet) and sometimes an external preamp (Great River Me1nv). The rest is just Logic and Plugins. Most of those are native to logic and a few are Waves. The rest is just the room, some decent microphones (AT5050, Soundeluxe U195, Shure SM7B, Shure SM81, Rode stereo NT4XY), and what passes for talent.
 
If I do things again, I'd probably stay away from two inch panels. My small and square room experience has led me to believe (rightly or wrongly) that they don't do a lot. It's really all about controlling the low end and bass trapping. And that takes width. So I'd just start with bass traps at the first reflection points and elsewhere. Again, this is based on small and square room experience. Two inch panels may work in decent rooms and they also work for spot treatments. It's just not for me.
 
And If it happens again...

I'm measuring the room empty before I start and measuring every step of the way. I know that bugs the Luddites, but I'm going down that path. And the first thing in my room are four giant super chunk bass traps floor to ceiling.
 
Acoustics.jpg

Not from my own observations, but from quoted figures off the interweb. Mostly from the manufacturer. the 4" acoustimac does seem more effective below 400Hz than the 2". The 6" has a weird curve.
 
Always put in more cables than you think you will ever need then add some CAT6, pref' shielded and a couple of blue plastic ropes to pull through some more.

Dave.
 
View attachment 104440

Not from my own observations, but from quoted figures off the interweb. Mostly from the manufacturer. the 4" acoustimac does seem more effective below 400Hz than the 2". The 6" has a weird curve.

As I said, most of this will change with room dimensions, and there is a place for some 2" panels. But, since controlling the low end is so crucial, playing with 2" panels is like adding mustard to a hot dog. It's happens after the thing is in the bun and not everyone likes or needs mustard. Of course, if you ever see a picture of a hot dog, it's very likely to have mustard.

They just don't perform that well in the low end. And if you have a problem room, 2" panels are like using a whiffle ball bat when you need a Louisville Slugger. :D Besides, while 2" panels won't get you a lot of mileage in the low end, many bass traps (depending on how they are built) have high end absorption qualities.
 
Always put in more cables than you think you will ever need then add some CAT6, pref' shielded and a couple of blue plastic ropes to pull through some more.

Dave.

I'm thinking of some blue plastic rope in case I' have to hang myself. Sometimes, recording can just drive you nuts. :D
 
Not from my own observations, but from quoted figures off the interweb. Mostly from the manufacturer. the 4" acoustimac does seem more effective below 400Hz than the 2". The 6" has a weird curve.

The other thing to consider if you are thinking about buying or building traps, is the thickness and density. If you look at results from an absorption calculator or actual experience, the prevailing wisdom seems to be that compressed products like OC 703 work well up to about 6-8" or so. After that, really thick traps can make use of attic insulation and what the gear heads call "pink fluffy." It's cheaper and seems to perform better--at least at larger thicknesses. You may run into people that tell you not to use regular insulation. But my reading suggests that this is one of those "advice myths." There are a lot of them out there. :D
 
If I had to do it all over again, I would put a four inch air gap between all my bass traps (corners excluded) and the wall. Air space should improve performance. It may only be a db or two, but this is a game of inches. Every little counts.
 
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