My third music/studio room option

[MENTION=193247]bluesfordan[/MENTION] didn't give us a blueprint, but it sounded like he had regular corners for 3 bass traps and a door in the 4th. The corners are where the bass accumulates, or whatever it does, so that would be the most effective place for those traps. Sure, moveable if that makes sense, but if you eliminate the corner, nothing is going to build up there.

I was just talking about the overhead clouds that are for those early reflections during mixing. IMO, those don't have to be too concerned about LF content, but you can put whatever fits. I have a couple of 4" panels hung a few inches away from the (8') ceiling and close to the fan, but I don't mix bass heavy content ever, so my room is Ok for what I do (and I'm not a measurer :)).

I'm not sure that the corner door completely eliminates the corner. Even a corner door may leave a small amount of wall space until you hit the door frame. And then there is the wall space above the door. Depending on the ceiling height, this could be a couple of feet. And finally, there is the corner space where the ceiling meets both walls. These Trihedral corners are fairly important and I would try to treat all four--even if it required some innovative steps.
 

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[MENTION=193247]
I was just talking about the overhead clouds that are for those early reflections during mixing. IMO, those don't have to be too concerned about LF content, but you can put whatever fits. I have a couple of 4" panels hung a few inches away from the (8') ceiling and close to the fan, but I don't mix bass heavy content ever, so my room is Ok for what I do (and I'm not a measurer :)).

Yeah, fit could be somewhat of an issue in his space. It sounds like the ceilings are just shy of 8ft. But depending on the room dimensions, there can be low frequency content at the ceiling above and near the mix position. He could easily have one or more floor-ceiling axial room modes. In my space, it was nothing that would dramatically interfere with bass or kick mixing. But I had a very large and audible peak around 150hz. That's still an important area where a lot goes on and the only choice I had was to add four inch panels or do nothing and live with the peak. I added the panels and a four inch gap. Things are a little tight visually but it seems worth it--even when you're 6'4". :D Although I'll probably have to put off my upright bass dreams for now. :D

I get the measurement thing. Many people avoid it because there is some extra learning and work involved. It does take some time to learn new software and you have to spend $100 or so for a mic. But I think it's worth it. You can leave acoustic decisions up to your ears or add a little data to the mix. I prefer a little data. It's like adding EQ to a mix. Most people at least have a look at the EQ plot while mixing. You could mix with your eyes closed oblivious to what your DAW software shows, but having a peek can be informative. So why not do the same thing with room acoustics? The room is an essential foundation to the whole recording process. So IMHO it makes sense to be as exacting as possible. I mean, the guys who built the room didn't do it by eye, did they? They probably used a tape measure. :D
 
tape measures are over-rated. I measured and cut this board 3 times and it's still too short.;):D

That's odd because the first rule of carpentry is measure twice cut once. What brand of tape measure were you using and what length? Did you factor in the body of the tape measure? Is the metal tab at the end fatigued and producing slight errors? Perhaps a 1/16 or so? And if you are using a compound mitre saw, what's your blade width and are you building that into your measurement when you cut? And are you buying your dimensional lumber from Home Depot. Because everything they sell is a slightly different length.

:laughings::laughings::laughings::laughings::laughings::laughings:
 
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