Control Room Window Framing - Need Advice. John, anyone?

D

DigitalDon

New member
I'm building the interior room walls now. The control room to live room and vocal booth room walls are all staggered stud with resilient channel and 5/8" sheetrock each side. The glass is 1/2" on one side (live room side) and 3/8" on the other (thickest I could afford). The wall top and bottom plates are 2" x 6" with staggered 2" x 4" studs. I know the purpose of this is to reduce transmission of sound from sheetrock to stud to sheetrock on the other side.

Here's my question. What is the best way to build the window frame and still isolate one side of the wall from the other? If anyone wants to draw it out the windows will be 4' 1.5" from the floor.

Need some feedback quickly as I'll be framing the windows Sunday (oh yeah, it is Sunday now here).

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

DD
 
Digital D- Have you taken a look at this detail?:



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And this one:


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DD,

I think I am understanding your situation so here goes my solution........

It is obviously important that each of the frames is de-coupled from the other. Your overall wall thickness is going to be the sum of two sheets of sheetrock, 6" of framing and whatever the resilient channels' depth is........my guess is that the total thickness would be approaching 9".

If you use 4x1.5" pine as your framing material, setting it as close to flush with the room-side surface of the sheetrock while still being able to attach it securely to the studs, etc., (doing this for both sides) you should have a gap of approx., 1" between each of the window frames.

Fix some square beading timber (maybe 3/4'x3/4") to form a glazing rebate, run a bead of silicone around for the glass to bed into. This will ensure the window is air-tight. ideally, I would be using some strips of neoprene to sit the glass on, but that is just me:D . Fix a timber retaining bead to the outer side of the glass and that's it.

Amendment;

Should it ever be necessary to remove the glass this would be a better "sealing option"..........

1; DON'T put the silicone on the rear timber, instead, use an adhesive backed rubber sealing strip.
2; Sit the glass on a neoprene strip so that the neoprene is back from the front surface of the glass.
3; Hold the glass firmly in place against the rubber backing strip with some small blocks of wood tacked into the frame.........use a couple of these per side.
4; Fill the void around the edge of the glass with silicone. When it has set remove the retaining blocks and silcone where the blocks were. When finished, the silicone should have sealed the glass edge to the timber frame.
5; Fit the outer timber retainer beading, with another self adhesive rubber strip.

Using this method, removing the glass is simply a matter of removing the outer timber beading, then cutting through the silicone with a sharp, thin blade.

Have fun and good luck.

:cool:
 
I started typing my last post 1 1/2 hours ago...............had an interuption while the singer in my son's band called in to listen to a mix of one of their songs. In the meantime MJ had posted those diagrams.........anyways, if you use those diagrams and my instructions you should be fine.

:cool:
 
Thanks guys! Once again you saved the day. I'll be starting on it in about an hour.

DD

Oh yeah, I picked up my central heat/air system yesterday from my barber (used) for $300. He had 2 of them. He told me to take them both so he wouldn't have to move them around in in storage unit!! I need more deals like this. Only "problem" is the air handlers are horizontally mounted rather than vertically mounted. The HVAC room would have been about 4' x 4' but now will be about 4' x 10' to allow for ducting from the sides. Hate to lose that space but the price is worth it.

DD
 
Staggered stud window?

Hello gentleman, I have a couple of questions in regards to the illustrations. First, Michael, how do you do that with staggered stud construction as Dan had mentioned this is what he is building? The plate is only 5 1/2" wide? And the studs overlap at the interior of the wall? This illustration implys 2 walls. And where is the exterior sheetrock? I looked at your plan last night dan, and figured the twin wall solution was what you would have to do but figured John or someone might make it work with staggered stud. Never seen a window frame built for 2 glass panes/jambs for that.?
Second, from the illustration, it appears that the exterior face is open to the room. What is that about? Dan said he's using RC on each face- I don't understand, are you suggesting he changes the construction? And what about the visable studs as shown in the illustration? I actually agree with the illustration, just confused about the wall face.
Is this supposed to be absorbers or something? Where does the open face stop? What piece of the puzzle am I missing. Does the absorbers go clear to the ceiling? How do you finish the ceiling sheetrock/wall junctures? Same at the floor? From looking at Dans floor plan, what happens at the wall junctures at the vocal booth?
And now that I think about it, DD is not building room in a room type construction. The exterior shell(from what I see in his plan) is the walls of the rooms. Doesn't this negate the twin wall iso, as structural iso has not been included? I thought that was the point of the control room/studio wall being staggered stud? But then the window thing negates that too? Kind of a difficult situation there. Or maybe I'm just to fussy, Ha! Good luck DD. Take some pics for us when you finish frameing, can you? Thanks
fitz
:D
 
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It is quite feasible to do this with staggered studs............profile the inner face of the frame timbers to avoid contact with any of the opposite wall structure.

Those diagrams are for ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY.........NOT meant to be specifically for DD's situation.

:cool:
 
Ok, I've been wiring the building today and took another look at the drawing. True it's for a double wall, not staggered wall but the window "mount" gave me some ideas.

I'm still formulating it now but will try to post a picture tonight. The suspense builds :D

DD
 
Hi Dan, say, I was bored late last night, so I took your floor plan, and superimposed it in autocad, and drew the double wall solution, with all details to scale, but did not finish it. Do you want me to? I'll have to convert it to a gif or something to post it here, or I can send it to you. But the gif's come out like shit. It shows pretty much everything though. But now, you said you have something else in mind. Let me know. And actually, lf you do want me to finish, it'll take a few hours.
fitz:)
 
Rick,

Are you referring to door jambs?

Regardless...... in situations like this there is always such a thing as imagination and lateral thinking. Both can easily be applied to solve the problems while maintaining both structural and design integrity.

:cool:
 
Rick, thanks for the offer but no need to put all that time into it. I just went outside and took a picture. Be right back with it.

DD
 
And here's another. I'm using a 2"x6" at top and bottom of the window frame. When mounted between the studs there will be a 3/4" gap between these 2"x6"s and the ones on the opposite side of the wall. Of course this means I'll box in the 2x6's (where they protrude out of the wall) with 2x4's. Keep in mind this is a staggered stud wall. I think it'll look fine once the sheetrock goes up and the exposed wood is stained. You'll notice I haven't installed the cripple studs above and below the window frame. I also think the extended frame (2x6's) will give me more room to properly angle the glass windows.

I'll try to draw this out in CAD but I'm still on the learning curve there.

I won't be nailing this together until Monday evening so comments are definitely welcomed.

DD
 
Oh yeah, the studs on the opposite side of the wall haven't been installed yet. The studs you see are actually off the floor. Studs on the opposite side would be flush with the floor if in the pictures. Thought this might be a little confusing if I didn't mention it.

DD
 
Hello ausrock, no, I was refering to the window "jambs", or trim frames, or casement.
I was wrong in refering as jamb. But in the illustration, each window has a casement, and I couldn't figure out how you would seperate two of them in a staggered stud configuration. Thats all. Just trying to help. No offence intended. You are very enlightened and helpful ausrock, and I am completely inexperienced in studio detailing, although I am completely experienced in normal construction as I have been a detailer for a long time, and am just trying to learn the details for my own use, and help in my own way. Please don't take offence to my off handed way of stating things. :D
Ok dan, no problem, like I said, I was bored.
fitz:) :)
 
Rick, the first detail is indeed for double wall construction. The exterior sheet rock has been omited for clarity. The second window pane detail shows mainly how to seat the glazing.

The open faces terminate at an adjoining wall. I guess you'd have to see that in plan view to get the whole picture. These details are from John's SAE site, and as such are general construction techniques and not job specific details.

Don's a pretty resourceful guy, I figured he could improvise to suit his need.;)
Ausrock sort of answered the question though, I think, with regards to Don's staggered stud construction.
 
Hey Mike,
Speaking of improvising - Notice in my last attachment the picture on the right. You'll see an "object" between the 2x6 and a 2x4 block on the floor. That's a ball point pen that happens to be precisely 3/8" thick. I'll use this as a spacer (2 of them) to set the 2x6's top and bottom on both sides. This gives me the 3/4" separation I wanted between opposite side 2x6's. Improvision seems to be the name of the game lately in building this studio. :D

DD
 
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