The blind Build - treating my space

Chipster

Member
Ok, finally getting around to treating my room. I'm totally blind, so pics will have to be taken by the Mrs., which I'll have her do in the next day or two. I've elected to DIY because I love building things, and believe it or not, for a blind guy most of my builds turn out looking good even if I do say so my self. In the mean time, my room is 14' 6in L x 11' 4in wide with 8' ceiling. It has been a bitch finding rigid fiberglass around here. Those that know what it is don't want to sell it to me because I'm not a contractor, and the big box stores haven't got a clue what I'm talking about. However, I finally remembered that I have a nephew in the HVAC industry. After contacting him last week his boss agree to let him buy it for me through their account, so I've found 4'x10' 2" sheets for $58 a sheet. I plan to straddle the corners with traps floor to ceiling. My question is, "is 2" enough to straddle the corner with or should I go with 4"?" Also for the wall absorbers I plan to make them 2' x 4', shouldn't I hang them with a 2" gap between it and the wall?
 
My question is, "is 2" enough to straddle the corner with or should I go with 4"?"

To be clear on the question, you used the inch symbol, do you mean 2 feet or 4 feet to straddle? Or are you asking about the thickness, then the question as written makes sense.
 
Ok, finally getting around to treating my room. I'm totally blind, so pics will have to be taken by the Mrs., which I'll have her do in the next day or two. I've elected to DIY because I love building things, and believe it or not, for a blind guy most of my builds turn out looking good even if I do say so my self. In the mean time, my room is 14' 6in L x 11' 4in wide with 8' ceiling. It has been a bitch finding rigid fiberglass around here. Those that know what it is don't want to sell it to me because I'm not a contractor, and the big box stores haven't got a clue what I'm talking about. However, I finally remembered that I have a nephew in the HVAC industry. After contacting him last week his boss agree to let him buy it for me through their account, so I've found 4'x10' 2" sheets for $58 a sheet. I plan to straddle the corners with traps floor to ceiling. My question is, "is 2" enough to straddle the corner with or should I go with 4"?" Also for the wall absorbers I plan to make them 2' x 4', shouldn't I hang them with a 2" gap between it and the wall?

What material is it that you have found? Typically 4" is suggested to perform better, though there could be benefit to a 2" rigid panel straddling the corner, with the gap behind filled with fluffy stuff. Much is dependent upon your limitations of build and the room itself.

Hopefully someone with more knowledge than I will be around soon. Definitely state the product you have found. 'Most important'.
 
Like jimmy said, if you are going to stuff the corner with 'fluffy stuff', then the 2" thick panel will be fine, if not, then build your corner bass traps @ 4" thickness.
Any gap between your wall traps and the wall is good as bass waves getting through the trap will then bounce off the wall and be further absorbed by the trap's insulation. Remember not to put a hard surface on the back of the trap, just wrap the cloth all the way around.
 
I'm sorry David that I didn't make my self clearer. I was talking about the thickness of the straddled panels. Rereading my post I understand your confusion. Again, sorry about that. I'm thinking ... (which is very dangerous,) I would build a 2 foot panel to straddle each corner, and I'm asking if 2" thick rigid insulation would be enough or if I need to double layer it and go with 4 inches.

Hi Jimmy, I was told that their vendor carried Johns Manville and Knauf rigid fiberglass. I sent the spec sheet from the OC703 over to my nephew and he showed it to his vendor and the reply is that it is equivalent to the 703 product. I wish I new more at this time. I shot a text to my nephew to have him find out the specs. However I find it interesting about filling the space behind a 2 inch board with fluffy stuff. If I did that, how full should I fill the cavity? Shouldn't there be a gap behind the insulation? I've got some bats of Johns Manville r-30 addick insulation and 4 or 5 bats of r-21 from insulating the floor, left over from insulating my wife's craft room. Here's a link: http://www.lowes.com/pd_13012-1722-...duct_qty_sales_dollar|1&page=1&facetInfo=30.0 and http://www.lowes.com/pd_204733-1722...duct_qty_sales_dollar|1&page=1&facetInfo=21.0 - Could I use that?
 
I'm sorry David that I didn't make my self clearer. I was talking about the thickness of the straddled panels. Rereading my post I understand your confusion. Again, sorry about that. I'm thinking ... (which is very dangerous,) I would build a 2 foot panel to straddle each corner, and I'm asking if 2" thick rigid insulation would be enough or if I need to double layer it and go with 4 inches.

Hi Jimmy, I was told that their vendor carried Johns Manville and Knauf rigid fiberglass. I sent the spec sheet from the OC703 over to my nephew and he showed it to his vendor and the reply is that it is equivalent to the 703 product. I wish I new more at this time. I shot a text to my nephew to have him find out the specs. However I find it interesting about filling the space behind a 2 inch board with fluffy stuff. If I did that, how full should I fill the cavity? Shouldn't there be a gap behind the insulation? I've got some bats of Johns Manville r-30 addick insulation and 4 or 5 bats of r-21 from insulating the floor, left over from insulating my wife's craft room. Here's a link: Shop Johns Manville 11-Pack R-30 Fiberglass Insulation (48-in L X 24-in W X 10-1/4-in D) at Lowes.com and http://www.lowes.com/pd_204733-1722...duct_qty_sales_dollar|1&page=1&facetInfo=21.0 - Could I use that?
 
I'm sorry David that I didn't make my self clearer. I was talking about the thickness of the straddled panels. Rereading my post I understand your confusion. Again, sorry about that. I'm thinking ... (which is very dangerous,) I would build a 2 foot panel to straddle each corner, and I'm asking if 2" thick rigid insulation would be enough or if I need to double layer it and go with 4 inches.

Looks like I was the only one confused, everyone else seemed to understand it. So your questions were being answered correctly.
 
I'm sorry David that I didn't make my self clearer. I was talking about the thickness of the straddled panels. Rereading my post I understand your confusion. Again, sorry about that. I'm thinking ... (which is very dangerous,) I would build a 2 foot panel to straddle each corner, and I'm asking if 2" thick rigid insulation would be enough or if I need to double layer it and go with 4 inches.

Hi Jimmy, I was told that their vendor carried Johns Manville and Knauf rigid fiberglass. I sent the spec sheet from the OC703 over to my nephew and he showed it to his vendor and the reply is that it is equivalent to the 703 product. I wish I new more at this time. I shot a text to my nephew to have him find out the specs. However I find it interesting about filling the space behind a 2 inch board with fluffy stuff. If I did that, how full should I fill the cavity? Shouldn't there be a gap behind the insulation? I've got some bats of Johns Manville r-30 addick insulation and 4 or 5 bats of r-21 from insulating the floor, left over from insulating my wife's craft room. Here's a link: Shop Johns Manville 11-Pack R-30 Fiberglass Insulation (48-in L X 24-in W X 10-1/4-in D) at Lowes.com and Shop Johns Manville 7-Pack R-21 Fiberglass Insulation (7-ft 9-in L X 15-in W X 5-1/2-in D) at Lowes.com - Could I use that?

4" of rigid is better for straddled corner bass trap than 2". Though like I stated I have read things from the pro's that the fluffy is actually better. The issue is holding the stuff up. I have also heard that fluffy stuff will perform even better than 'superchunks', which is stacked rigid fiberglass filling the whole corner.

Now, there is also the fact that bass traps can have improved performance with Kraft paper at the front of a trap. Your JM r-30 has that. Whether that would work placed behind the rigid, I am not sure. Either way, you could mount the rigid trap to wall with some access to stuff the pink behind. Maybe make the trap 1' short of room height, then add 1' x 2' panel to enclose the top? The R-21 unfaced would be easier to place behind. Maybe spray adhesive the faced stuff to the back of the rigid, then mount the trap to the corner? I don't know...

Hopefully Mr. JH Brandt will be around soon to confirm or correct my understandings and possibilities. He is the one who would have the facts.

I am curious myself as I have a new isolation room that I am going to need to build panels for.
 
Yeah, I don't get the Kraft paper thing - that would reflect some of the highs, I guess. Maybe making the trap have more uniform absorbtion across the spectrum?
 
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Interesting. Maybe I should use the rigid for wall absorbers and maybe build a couple of gobles, and use the fluffy stuff I have for the corner traps. I can have my wife sew some bags to place it in so I could easily hang it from the frames to help keep it from sagging.
 
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