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Thread: Sterling 5" studio monitor problems

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Donithan View Post
    I'll wait and see if someone else can tell me how to track the problem down...what does a bi-amp look like and how much do they cost?
    You have to open up the speaker - there is a double amp on a circuit board inside - look for loose wires or a blackened component first.
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    Look for what might appear to be cold solder joints also.........
    Mark.......

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    Quote Originally Posted by mjbphotos View Post
    You have to open up the speaker - there is a double amp on a circuit board inside - look for loose wires or a blackened component first.
    I did that wiggled and tapped...still nothing...both speakers work(the one woofer I hooked up to an external fm radio to test it).But the amplifier or components that power the woofer don't work.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RFR View Post
    Dude just trying to help. Don't be so dismissive.
    A blown fuse is the easiest thing to look for and fix. And 'what if' it's that easy. That's a good thing.

    Just because one driver works doesn't rule out that possibility. Many powered monitors are Bi amped, as in there are seperate amps for the woofer and tweeter.
    I'm not saying a fuse is your problem. I'm not looking inside your speaker, but it's worth checking.
    As I had stated, it seemed to be a progressive thing...It would cut out and then come back on for days and then stop on it's own.To me that doesn't sound like a fuse.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Donithan View Post
    As I had stated, it seemed to be a progressive thing...It would cut out and then come back on for days and then stop on it's own.To me that doesn't sound like a fuse.
    Can you power up the speaker with the circuit board exposed? If so, using a plastic or otherwise non-metallic stick, gently push on various areas of the circuit board. If there is a 'cold solder' joint the pressure and flex of the circuit board may cause a component that has lost connection to come back momentarily. If this works you may be able to narrow down an area where you could try 'reflowing' the solder to restore a reliable solder joint.
    Can you post a pic of the circuit board(s)?
    Mark.......

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    Quote Originally Posted by arcaxis View Post
    Can you power up the speaker with the circuit board exposed? If so, using a plastic or otherwise non-metallic stick, gently push on various areas of the circuit board. If there is a 'cold solder' joint the pressure and flex of the circuit board may cause a component that has lost connection to come back momentarily. If this works you may be able to narrow down an area where you could try 'reflowing' the solder to restore a reliable solder joint.
    Can you post a pic of the circuit board(s)?
    I'll get right on that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by arcaxis View Post
    Can you power up the speaker with the circuit board exposed? If so, using a plastic or otherwise non-metallic stick, gently push on various areas of the circuit board. If there is a 'cold solder' joint the pressure and flex of the circuit board may cause a component that has lost connection to come back momentarily. If this works you may be able to narrow down an area where you could try 'reflowing' the solder to restore a reliable solder joint.
    Can you post a pic of the circuit board(s)?
    I just do what you said and nothing happened..as far as posting a pic it wouldn't show both sides of the circuit board...it's layered with another circuit board.
    If this is anything, when I power off the unit the woofer does "pop".Also there's a safety shutdown function for when I overheats..it shuts off for 30 minutes, I was thinking maybe that malfunctioned and stuck somehow. I don't know where that is located so I could disconnect it or something.
    Last edited by Robert Donithan; 04-11-2019 at 08:34.

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