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Thread: Tascam M520 meter bridge bulb replacement

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    Tascam M520 meter bridge bulb replacement

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    I am the proud new owner of a pretty damn clean Tascam M520!

    I traded this guy in one of my classes for a telecaster (mexican) and 50 bucks.

    It came with 2 patch bays and a bunch of half done cabling. I just learned how to solder so I will be able to complete them, its going to a take a bit of time tho.

    The one thing that i want to do that I don't know how to do it changing the meter bridge bulbs. There are 4 that are out.

    I read in sweetbeats M520 story that there is some devilish cement in there somewhere and I was wondering if anyone could share on the best way to replace the bulbs.

    Thanks alot

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    check with sweetbeats... he did a thread not too long ago when doing his...
    37.8% of all statistics are made up on the spot...

    hey give a guy some room... people are trying to evolve here... for crying out loud...

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    Start reading at post #222 in my Tascam M-520 Story thread.

    There are a couple ways to go on this.

    The first issue is that the proper bulbs for the VU's in the 500-series boards (and others for sure) are no longer available from Tascam. They do have bulbs, but they are the shorter variety as is found in the likes of the 38, 48 and 58 decks as well as many others.

    The second issue is that the bulbs come "naked" (without the metal "fuse" caps)

    The first issue is not really much of an issue except for physical appearances of the bulbs themselves, but as far as my eye can see, the luminesence is indistinguishable from the original longer bulbs.

    The second issue is where you've got choices. If you're a freak like me, then you're going to find a way to get the metal caps off the old bulbs, and its not easy...

    1. desolder
    2. squeeeze the very end tip of the cap with pliers to open the crimp
    3. bust the glass on the bulb
    4. dig out the glass left in the cap as well as the cement...clean it out as good as you can. Soaking it in solvent like acetone sort of helps to break it up
    5. then I put the wire leads of the new bulb through the cleaned-up caps, drizzled a little hot-glue in there and held the caps in proper position while the glue cooled...this allowed the caps to be spaced close to the length of the original bulb even though the new bulb is shorter
    6. crimp the ends
    7. solder (and hold the cap in position again since the iron has softened up that glue again )
    8. trim the leads
    9. stick it in yer meter and enjoy the soft glow!


    I'll be doing the rest of mine this way even though it is a PITA...I'm sure there is a better way but...

    The other option is to just do as they did in the meters on the decks and solder the bulb in...there is no fuse-like "bulb holder" in the smaller meters. I wanted to leave the bulb holders intact in my M-520 and that is the other reason I opted to do it the hard way

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    Thanks alot


    Sounds like its a little involved....

    Im not a stranger to soldering but it is kind of intimidating doing it on the VU.

    Im going to be Opening it up pretty soon. I am kind of nervous.

    So I am going to have to order the bulbs from Tascam I presume.

    Should be pretty cheap right?

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    How many bulbs are out?

    The bulbs are not cheap. About $8 each.

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    4 bulbs are out

    8 bucks a pop is a little steap, but I need that glow. I need that glow.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Granada View Post
    4 bulbs are out

    8 bucks a pop is a little steap, but I need that glow. I need that glow.

    Actually, only 2 bulbs are out. In the m520 bulbs are wired in series 2 at a time. When one of the 2 burns out they both are dark. less money for you.

    But, you should realize that if any are burning out then the others are of the same age and are just waiting for the right time to go themselves.

    Some day I will need to get a nice replacement worked out.

    --Ethan
    In Sunny Vancouver ..... (Washington)

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    Is there a PDF manual floating around online?

    I am trying to figure out how I am going to hook up my patch bay and I have questions on alot.

    Aux?

    Aux out?

    The whole Sub in section?

    Why is there 2 outputs for the PGM faders. Are they indipendent?

    How does the Talkback work. I see no outputs on the back for it
    A manual would be sweet.

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    Arrow PGM Outputs

    The M520 is an 8-buss board.
    Each PGM (buss) output has 2 connectors in bridged mono.
    They are the same signal and are not independent.
    This enables the 8-buss board to support a 16-track tape deck, as
    Buss-1: Track 1/9
    Buss-2: Track 2/10
    Buss-3: Track 3/11
    etc.,...
    with differentiation between low-order and high-order tracks being done with the recorder's track-arming panel.

    Hope that makes sense.

    /DA
    Quote Originally Posted by Lt. Bob
    ... subtleties of sound make a difference to those who really listen.

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    kind of....

    could you give it to me in other words? I am kind of confused..

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