sound dropouts with Teac A-2300SR

S

Sonarcade

Member
so guys, I've been bit by the bug. I snagged my second open reel kit yesterday and tested it out. I gave it a good thorough clean (by which I mean, scrubbing the heads, tape leads, pinch roller, capstan shaft, and tape risers, with isopropyl alcohol) and noticed that the levels kind of fluctuate a great deal more than my Tascam 38 to the point of the sound getting really muted. I'm also using a NOS reel of a 7" Scotch 144. I highly doubt that it's the nature of the machine itself to behave this way and I was wondering where I should direct my attention and TLC toward so that I can distribute the burden of recording between my two kits. Thanks.
 
You can test the rec-signal between monitor / tape and compare the VU-meter readings on record mode.
A small difference is OK, but if the tape is bad or not a much lower signal on TAPE will show up.
Of course this is not 100 % accurate as the deck maybe need calibrating, a new fresh tape will determine what's wrong in more accurate way.:)
 
you were totally right. I got a new reel...will update with make and model once I get home...and I can now hear a recording. Unfortunately, there's a bit of "tape-jitter" and still some faint dropping out of sound present. Does this problem sound somewhat familiar and if so, is it easily remediable? thanks.
 
Dropouts

Sonarcade,

I recently acquired a Tascam MS-16 and have been having dropout problems too. I found that the tape guides weren't in proper alignment. There was a slight curling of the tape near the bottom of the center guide. This seemed to be causing the tape to lift off the record head on the opposite side of the tape. I pressed the tape to the head with a queue tip and noticed a significant improvement in terms of dropouts.

I'm no expert, but you might check your tape path alignment, look for obvious problems like curling, and try the queue tip trick on both heads to see if it makes any difference.


Bill
 
bdoughty2k5 - thanks for leading me to actually check the tape path, since that I noticed something HUGE = the pinch roller nor the tape lifts move upward when hitting play or rewind or ff or whatever. The mechanism responsible for lifting both the tape lifts and the pinch roller (to the capstan shaft) is really stiff and sticky and it seems I may need to oil it. Unfortunately, I'm not too familiar with what solvents are safe to use with this machine so that the reel gets going.

With the previous tape, though, it's funny I didn't mention the "curl" you speak of, since it was one of those salient things that I first took notice of. I thought it to be a non-issue and I suppose, now it is, since I got a tape that doesn't curl (or curl as much!). Thanks again and hopefully I can get this machine going.
 
Good one problem is solved with that old tape, I have a 2300 apart on the bench right now, let me take some pictures and solve the gummed up linkage dilemma for you :)
 
hey, Vintage Tex,

so it's a BASF but I can't tell much more beyond that looking at the box itself. I got as far as removing the side wood paneling but that's it. I'm a bit freaked out by the warning sticker on that thing as well as the way the frame's constructed. In terms of disassembly and maintenance, it seems to be a complete 180 from the Tascam 38 -- which, unlike my 2300SR, has instructions on how to take it apart, no crazy electrical shock warning sticker and an easily removable dress plate.

Anyhow, I look forward to your findings. Thanks. I was considering heading down to Radioshack to plunk down heavy cash on Deoxit. The only problem I can see ahead with using this is removing the excess, which would involve taking the machine apart anyway.
 
Don't take it apart yet and don't buy anything until Rolf (Vintage Texas) instructs you. He services those machines for a living and knows his stuff.
 
In the meantime take the rear cover off, it's different then a 38 model for performing surgery.
I'll be back this afternoon:cool:
 
ah. no worries. take your time. it's good to know that Tascam mixed it up with their points of attack. I'll get to it once I get home. :)
 
Thanks for being patient, have pictures and adding arrows and stuff right now.
Have a phillips screwdriver, solder iron and some Gun-Oil or Sewing machine oil ready.:rolleyes:
 
I have the phillips, one of those soldering "pencils," and 3 in 1 oil at hand. If a full on solder iron and solder as well as gun-oil are necessities, I'll pick those up first thing tomorrow. Thanks. I'm also surprised at how easily the back came off! The metalwork on the sides made me think there would be some crazy maneuvering involved.
 
Ready for surgery ?:D

If you have the rear panel off you will see this:
1.jpg


Unplug the unit first of course, then take the two screws out (blue circle)
 
Not 100 % if yours have a power-supply board attached at the cross-bar or not, but if so, just lay it to the left side:
2.jpg


Now turn the deck around and unscrew the pinch-roller cap first.
Then slide the rubber roller off, don't drop the small washer behind the cap.

Capstan-shaft:
Unscrew the silver cover around the capstan shaft.
You find a small rubber O-ring round the shaft, pry it off the shaft very carefully.

Now if the surface where the tape goes across is dirty you need
to clean this before going any further, head-cleaner or alcohol
Ever-Clear works good + Q-tips.
No tape residue or crud can be left as we going to take out the fly-wheel
and if the shaft has gunk around, you will have a problem.:)
3.jpg
 
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