POwer testing in old house

MagnumPI

New member
Hi there,
I am thinking about renting a cheap little house in the country to do some album recording and was wondering about power issues.
I’ll have a chance to go see it before I commit and was wondering if there is a way I could test the power to see if its “clean” for recording.
I'm recording with a mixture of Tascam 388, a bunch of guitar pedals, amps, pianos, and protools.
I want to be sure to avoid the place if the wiring is bad and has lots of hum or buzz issues.
Does anyone know a good way to test for this without bringing a lot of heavy gear?
Is this question valid? I mean, does hum come from bad wiring in old houses etc.?
Thanks a lot,
Chris
 
I can't think of any cheap measuring instrument that would show how clean the power is. You would be looking for spikes, low voltage, noise, RF interference, etc, but the tools are expensive as far as I know. You can use a little outlet tester to be sure the wiring is correct. Then when/if you move in, use a UPS as a central power source for your gear. The APC brand does a great job of preventing spikes and cleaning noise and protecting your gear.

It has two busses, one is for the battery backup, the other is for surge protection. The battery backed bus would be for your computer, one monitor, and in my case, a network switch. The surge protected bus isn't battery backed, but it will provide clean power for your gear. Plug everything else into that.

For my example of the network switch, elsewhere in the house, the cable modem and router are on another UPS. If we lose power, we don't lose internet. We get some pretty severe storms come through occasionally and I like to keep track of it.
 
Thanks Chili,
That's an interesting idea. Would something like a Furman PL-Plus do the same job?
Though it is more expensive.
Thanks again
 
You do not list your location. In the U.S. older homes have only two prong electrical outlets (no earth ground). More modern homes have three prongs that includes the earth ground. I wouldn't set up a studio on the older no ground system.
 
Neither a UPS or Furman will fix ground issues. Nor that of a poorly wired house. The question you need to ask is how the home circuits are wired. Recording gear on same circuit as appliances (fridge/lighting/outlets in bathroom)-a big no!!!. So if you can have separate ground and feed for the outlets that run your recording gear, then that is the best bet.
 
In the US, 3-prong outlets were required in new homes since the mid-60s to early 70s. Grounded outlets were still used even if they were 2-prong. The screw on the outlet cover was actually a ground. If the house was built before the 50s, it's possible there is no ground.

The little $3 outlet tester will let you know if the wiring is correct. It won't tell you if there are appliances on the same circuit, but you check the breaker panel and what the labels say. Hopefully, they're labeled properly.

I am one to believe the Furmans and the APCs are similar in function and results, with the exception that the APCs offer a battery back-up power source. However, I have never used a furman and have never looked at data that compares their abilities to clean up a dirty power source to the APC. In researching UPS units for a work project many years ago, I did look at data for the APCs and thought they worked well. I have always used them in my studio and never had a problem.

Okay, I do have one problem and it is a ground hum. All my studio equipment runs from one dedicated 20 amp circuit through one outlet. Everything goes through the APC and then power strips. All except for my keyboard. I have that plugged into a different outlet on a separate circuit. When I run audio cables from the keyboard to the interface, I get a ground loop. I don't know why.... :( I built the studio myself and did all the electrical myself. The grounds from both circuits go back to the same ground bus in the breaker panel. They are literally right next to each on the ground bus, yet I get a hum when I go to record the keyboard. My workaround is to use an extension cord to plug the keyboard into the same outlet as the interface whenever I go to record the keyboard. It's not often, so not too inconvenient.

Lesson 1: Keep everything on the same outlet and no ground loops.
Lesson 2: APC over Furmans
Lesson 3: I babble too much. :D
 
Not familiar with US wiring practice but yes, you certainly want the circuits to be earthed, 3 pin.

You could get a reasonable idea of the "cleanliness" of the supply by bringing in a small valved guitar amp and single coil pupped guitar (but not one of "ours" perhaps? Rather well filtered!) If such a rig is as humfree and clean as at your present domicile, bodes well.

Over here you would be well advised to call in a pro lekky to check things out. In fact if a house had very old electrics and was judged unsafe you would not be allowed to move in. We call them "Regs" you say "Code" I believe?

Chilli's idea of a single feed (preff' right back from the incoming meter and "consumer unit" we call them) is the way to beat ground loops and keep that JUST for audio, no lights, no heaters/AC. If the continuity of supply is at all suspect investing in a 1kW UPS would make sense, give you 15 mins or so to save your work.

Mr C. Have you tried a 1:1 traff box twixt kbd and AI? Art Cleanbox ll gets a good rep (Orchid Electronics here)

Dave.
 
Mr C. Have you tried a 1:1 traff box twixt kbd and AI? Art Cleanbox ll gets a good rep (Orchid Electronics here)

Dave.


I haven't, Thanks for the reference. Never seen that unit before. I'll check it out. (Although, the extension cord completely eliminates the hum.)
 
If it's an old house upgraded to grounded outlets, look out for RPBG, or reverse polarity bootleg ground.

Shocking Situations - ProSoundWeb

Figure_1PSWMSACFeb2016.jpg
 
There is so much folk lore on electricity that it's difficult to separate fact and fiction. Even 'noise' means different things.

To get your head around the physics takes a bit of clear thinking, and forgetting about things you've heard and starting from basics.

Earthing (UK) and Grounding (US)

To function this simply isn't needed at all. For 99% of the population it is there for safety purposes. Power stations don't use it to distribute electricity, it is derived locally. The perfect electricity supply is simply a nice smooth sine wave that swings positive and negative 50 or 60 times a second. Pretty much that is it!

Your equipment is what usually causes the issues we hear about. What is supposed to happen is that the much smaller voltages your equipment needs to actually function are produced from the mains input inside your kit. We're dealing with tiny amounts of electricity. When you stick a microphone in front of the guitar fret board and we complain about the noise the fingertips make rubbing the string - that is a tiny amount of electricity being produced by the dynamic mic you used and passed along the cable to your recording circuits. In the UK we have 240V (well, as soon as Brexit happens) coming out of the wall outlet. The usual description used for mics suggests a figure of maybe 20mV but this is for a fairly loud sound, so quieter sounds, like our finger brush on the string could me less than a thousandth of a volt, perhaps often less! Hence why quiet preamps are pretty important - 1/1000th of a volt is a very small amount of electricity. With 240V being present in your mains powered mixer or pre-amp, that is a quarter of a million time more than your fret noise! It takes some serious design to stop this leaking into your mic signal - which comes across as hum. The idea that you wrap your mic conductors with a screen that you connect to ground is how we seek to reduce the leakage of the interference from the mains. The basic concept is that ground/earth is a huge plane of conductive material that is zero volts, and using this to make all the parts of the circuits that should be zero volts actually be zero volts. If you are a designer you want this magical zero volts inside your piece of kit, so that the voltages you need to make it work have a return path that won't induce any stray voltages into the audio. Here is where problems start. If the inside use for the earth is a kind of 'reference' voltage - then it has no real link with the real world's ground/earth, which should be zero volts, but strangely often isn't! Designers have a choice - their products works really well and has not nasty hums at all. However, a fault might occur. It happened often in old tube (valve) designs - maybe a dodgy transformer. The guitar amp and the Start plugged into it work fine, again noise nasty noises. BUT - the zero Volts we designed the chassis to be is accidentally sitting at maybe just over 100V AC! Still doesn't hum, and if the guitarist is wearing insulating footwear, all works brilliantly - except when he touches the strings, he's actually live! This is how people die. All it takes is for him to also touch something that IS connected to the real world ground. It's not common, but happens. Nowadays, with three pin power cables, it's safer to make sure the chassis of the amp is connected to the real world ground. If all is well - everything functions, and if that fault occurs, fuses or trips do their stuff and safety wins.

What also happens is that when we start linking the grounds, we are hoping they are all the same potential - zero. For all sorts of reasons, this rarely is the case. Local electricity use can often shift the real potential of the local ground - even possible within the size of a building. Maybe just a volt or two, but this is where we start to discover what everyone calls noisy electricity. We connect two pieces of equipment. On their own, both work fine and are to all intents and purposes, silent - but when we start to link them together we start to detect hum in large or small amounts. The real cause could be poor grounding of the buildings outlets, or it could be they are all well connected and the building's ground is suspect. It could be accidental partnering of incompatible equipment. In kit with XLR connectors, is pin 1 connected to the electrical ground through the building wiring, or is it simply connected to the audio ground - which might be something totally separate. The BBC in the UK spent ages in the path designing their studios with a 'technical ground'. A totally separate thing to the electrical ground. The idea was that all audio equipment had it's own separate and absolute zero voltage ground. Designed for exactly what we want - quiet audio circuits with no hum. One piece of kit where the designer linked pin 1 of the XLR output to the mains power ground could wreck everything. Suddenly quiet studios had hum? One item that contaminated an entire studio complex. Worse still is that while our ground/earth might have only drifted away from the 'real' by a single volt, but Ohm's Law tells us that if we have voltage, we'll also have a current component. We don't know the source of the voltage drift, but what if there is some serious current available? Plugging in a piece of kit that connects two grounds together could actually damage some items.

Magnum PI wants to rent a house, but he has no idea about it's electrical system, and with a rental, expensive mods are probably not possible. Ordinary electricians are ONLY concerned with safety when grounding is mentioned. Assuming that the electricity supply is safe, then the usual solution to all these issues is to try it, ad hoc when you set up - using all the room outlets. If you get hums that aren't instantly solvable, then step back and consider what could be happening. If the home has been altered or extended at some point - some of the socket outlets could be retrofitted, and maybe their ground is taking a different path back to the electricity consumer unit (don;t know what the US term for the pointe where the fuses breakers in a panel are?). In this circumstance, pick one outlet and assuming your total load is within it's capacity - which is normally the case with a studio, then run everything off this outlet and see if the hum vanishes. There is no reason why a system wired like this in one location will not work fine somewhere else. After all, this is what professional touring audio does - loads of big racks with lots of kit, wired to a distribution board, and then one connection to the building.

All this assumes the noise we are talking about is 50/60Hz and nothing else.

One big feature of modern electricity supplies is that there are often other things superimposed on our mains waveform! We squirt RF down them for baby alarms, and we send data down them to get internet. Towns even send data down the wiring to turn on and off the street lights.

All this is meant to be ignored by ordinary items connected, and very often they tell you the power is very low and it doesn't travel very far, but if you have access to a scope, and look at your mains waveform, you can often detect all sorts of rubbish being carried. If any of your kit is less than ideally designed, or maybe is even slightly faulty, then this rubbish can be evident - remember how low that fret noise voltage is, it doesn't take much to make these buzzes and whine audible.

My best guess is that a good system in one home will be fine in the other. It's really bad luck when you find truly dirty mains. In 2004 for a few months I had a unit on an industrial estate. I had loads of horrible clicks on my audio, and looking at the mains waveform, there were big spikes, going much higher than the 240V at random times of the day, and an odd "oomph' low frequency noise that I'd worked out was coming from the monitor speaker amp. I couldn't cure it, but swapping it solved the problem.

Eventually I located the problem. An engineering firm two units away - Welding! every time they struck an arc I got the spike down the mains. I tried one of the cheap filters and the spikes triggered it and then I discovered these devices were pretty much one shot! Waste of not a huge amount of money. The oomph noise was when they started up a large three phase compressor, and when they did this, my neutral which normally sat at zero volts moved away for a few seconds and had a couple of volts on it. My unit also dropped the mains voltage at the same time. Not much, but enough to show on a meter.

If your new home is away from industrial kit, I doubt these things will trouble you.

My starting tips are simple. Don't do anything unless you need to. If you do have a problem, source all your power from one source, and of that fails, disconnect each piece of kit individually until you find the culprit.

My only hums in my studio come from odd patching I do as I use normalled patchbays to connect everything.

That bootleg wiring Bouldersoundguy detailed sounds scary to us in 240V land! It's simply not allowed here. Linking earth and neutral can only be done at the point of entry, nowhere else.
 
If it's an old house upgraded to grounded outlets, look out for RPBG, or reverse polarity bootleg ground.

When I moved into my current house back in '99...one of the things I did early on was to get my receptacle tester, and go through every outlet, and also every switch...and most of the light fixtures...to make sure they were wired properly.

My house isn't a super old house, so it's all wired with proper positive, neutral and ground cable...but I did find a couple of outlets/switches where the positive and neutral were reversed....most likely by the previous home owner doing a repair or add-on receptacle...or someone was sleeping on the job during construction.
The other thing I found on a lot of the connections was 1.) loose screws and 2.) connections made by using the holes in the outlets instead of screws....so I redid all of those by using the screws, and then I also tightened down all the screws.
I found out about that at my previous house where I would see a light flicker...and thinking it was a power issue, and then a guy told me to check the screws for looseness...which could cause arcing, and the power flicker...and additional noise.

These days...my studio rig is pretty much immune to most of that...knock on wood.
I ran dedicated lines to my studio, on their own breakers...and then I have a few layers of power conditioning.

There's a primary relay that sits in front of everything, it's main purpose is to prevent rapid power cycling like you get sometimes with storms...the power pops off-on-off...etc. The relay will shut off on power-off, and not allow the power back on until I reset it. Saves all my gear from that off-on-off stuff, and audio popping in the speakers...when I'm working during a stormy day.

Then I have the "sacrificial lamb" piece...which is mainly a spike/surge protector that reacts even on the fastest ones, protecting the gear that comes after it. It's not a costly piece, so if it fires to save the others, not a big deal.

A voltage regulator is next, keeping the voltage steady to all my audio gear...great for the amps, especially.
Finally, there is a balanced power unit that comes after the voltage regulator.

I have all my "amp" type of gear directly plugged to the voltage regulator, and then the rest of the audio gear is plugged into the balanced power unit.
Amps (guitar amps, headphone amps, monitor amps) work better without the balanced power...since your amps when cranking out audio, will have all kinds of varying power demands...and running them off the balanced power could slow that rapid power demand/change process, resulting in more sloppier amp response.

Anyway...that's my studio power setup...a bit involved, but I'm glad I went this far with it. The gear is very happy. :)
 
A couple more "fun" things to know.

Early tube equipment: radios and guitar amps often had the chassis wired to one of the two plug prongs. The other fed the power transformer primary and it returned to chassis and back to the outlet. To confound an already stupid idea, the plug was not polarized, you could plug it in either way :confused:. This is what killed not an insignificant number of musicians. The plug is inserted with chassis hooked to line (hot or what ever else you call it), the guitar cord or microphone carries that chassis connection to the guitar or mic. touch either and stand in water perhaps, and BANG, you are dead. i always caution newbies finding some real old radio or amp, know what you are doing when you mess with those.

Dimmers, the bane of audio studios, they put hash all over the mains, especially if on the same phase as the audio equipment is being fed with.

Coax cable like a guitar cable or unbalanced patch cable ONLY shield from outside noise when the current of the center conductor is identical (but opposite) to the current in the shield. The slightest DC in the shield renders coax useless for shielding outside noise.

The problem of every thing on one breaker works fine but connecting a piece of gear powered by another breaker induces hum...Often (depending on the breaker panel) two adjacent breakers are powered by the two different legs of the mains coming into the house. The lines are different length so slight resistance differences, the two breakers have slightly different resistance compounding the issue. You can try and make sure the two breakers feeding your studio are on the same line (or Phase) feeding the breaker panel. Easy enough to check, meter from the out put of the two breakers. Same line, means 0 volts difference. One breaker on each line, 240V difference at the lines feeding your equipment. That is how it works in the US, I don't know for the life of me why all the Brits aren't dead of electrocution yet...:eek: getting across 120V can definitely kill you if you are on a good ground, but most time it just knocks the shit out of you. 240V is lethal much more often.
 
"One breaker on each line, 240V difference at the lines feeding your equipment. That is how it works in the US, I don't know for the life of me why all the Brits aren't dead of electrocution yet... getting across 120V can definitely kill you if you are on a good ground, but most time it just knocks the shit out of you. 240V is lethal much more often."

Don't understand that M? If you mean we can get across two phases? Not likely. Domestic and small business premises ONLY have a single phase coming in (It alternates down the street). Industrial buildings will have 3ph but there have always been (last 50 years at least) very strict rules about NOT feeding more than one phase per floor/ room and even if someone brought in an extension say from another room on a different phase, BOTH circuits would have to fail live to chassis and BOTH chassis be floating to cause a danger.

We also don't have outlets on different breakers. A ground floor will be fed all from one "ring" protected at 32 amps giving some 7.5kW of power per ring. High current devices, cookers, showers etc will be fed from a dedicated spur in suitably heavy cable (10mm sq typically) directly back to the meter. Connections to such equipment is hard wired. We also have a history of a state owned electricity supply that WAS incredibly heavily regulated from the safety point of view. Even now it is privatized (and so lekky is BLOODY expensive and IMHO less reliable) there is still a safety culture bordering on the OCD!

Our ring main system with local plug fusing is considered "dangerous" in many EU countries (all 230V of course) but I would stack OUR safety record up against anyone else in the world?

Dave.
 
You do not list your location. In the U.S. older homes have only two prong electrical outlets (no earth ground). More modern homes have three prongs that includes the earth ground. I wouldn't set up a studio on the older no ground system.

^^^This.

I've never needed any form of power conditioning, UPS, etc. with modern equipment and modern power supplies. However a faulty ground/earth can be fatal.

One last comment...the only real need for a UPS is a situation where even a momentary loss of power can cost you money or lose information on your computer. Last big place I worked before I retired we DID have a huge UPS--but many of the things we did involved live broadcasts via satellite. The UPS was specced to keep all mission critical equipment going just for the time it took a back-up generator to start. Indeed, we had two back up generators--if both started then the whole building kept going but if one failed, automatic load shedding cut off any office stuff etc. and the single genny was enough to keep the important tech stuff going.
 
Coming into this thread as late as this, I'm sure someone has already mentioned some of the things I'm about to mention. But, coming from a different person's brain, things can be explained differently and maybe that different perspective can make it clearer or easier to understand.

First, it is very true that you can't test electricity for the issues that hinder recording by looking. You also can't tell my just plugging something in. But, when looking at an older house, and particularly a farm house, you can spot things that might spell out trouble. Someone may have already fixed it, but if not, the trouble might be something you'll have to deal with yourself.

As has already been said, the code these days is to have the hot wire always on the same prong, the neutral on the other and an earth ground is now the standard, too. Back when everything was analog, circuits were a lot more forgiving and able to withstand some fluctuation in the AC line. This meant you could actually have incorrect wiring (to a point) and everything would still work. Then, you had to deal with AC giving you ground hum and phase buzz that didn't really show up unless you had an amp with speakers. And depending on the outlet you plugged the amp into, you might not even hear these things. And if you happened to have a compressor from a refrigerator or air conditioner on the same circuit, those surges when it went on and off really didn't bother things that much. So, in the old days of analog, wiring wasn't that much of a problem.

But, in the digital world, wiring really has to be correct, or it can eventually damage your digital equipment. The hot wire must be correct,and then the neutral must be correct. And the earth ground is also necessary. It's sad, but many homes built before these standards were in force still have the old analog standard and people can purchase digital devices and find that they don't last as long as they should. A computer on the same circuit as a room air conditioner can die a death too soon, because that compressor keeps going on and off, causing spikes and surges to pummel the computer. People assume everything is OK, as long as everything turns on. Electrical issues can be hidden and unless you are aware of them, your expensive equipment is doomed to an early death.

When I first moved into my house, I didn't know it was built in 1939. Back then, the electrical code was pretty loose. There was just a two wire system and in many cases, electrical tape wasn't even necessary. Wire nuts hadn't been invented yet, so wires were just twisted together with pliers. The two wires were passed through studs and joists by drilling holes and this was how the two wires were kept at a safe distance apart. In many cases they were completely separate wires and if they were together in a jacket, the jacket was made of paper impregnated with tar.

I found some of those wires that had been twisted together with pliers were no longer twisted as tightly as they should be. There were times when I would lose power in a room, and that power loss didn't throw a breaker. I had to get up in the attic and jiggle wires to see which connection was at fault. That told me I had purchased a potential electrical nightmare. If one connection could become loose, what would keep others from getting loose? The sad answer to that question is nothing.

I found that the wire itself was good #12 wire, but it was the connections that were suspect. And there was no earth ground in the house at all. Someone had replaced all of the outlets with the new 3 prong type, leading people to assume there was updated wiring. And because the former homeowner's father had done much of the changes, some of the hot wires were incorrectly connected to the neutral prong of the outlets.

So, I had incorrect wiring, no earth ground and some connections coming loose. No wire nuts or electrical tape was a big issue for me. I didn't like the idea of the two wires (hot and neutral) to be so close together without anything to keep them from touching. That's just how it was done back then, but we now know these things are a problem waiting to happen. Why play with fate?

So, I decided to rewire my whole house. In the process of doing that, I found that every wall outlet in the house was on one breaker. It didn't matter what room that outlet was in, it was on that same breaker. I was beginning to wonder how this house had passed electrical code before the sale. I'm sure there had been some underhanded money changing hands somewhere. Also, all of the wall outlets were about 3 feet from the floor. That was how things were done "back in the day". New methods have outlets about a foot from the floor. So, if you see outlets that high, that should also tell you a little about the age of the house and maybe the age of the wiring.

I finally got the wiring all finished...new #12, 3 wire Romex, to go with the new outlets that were already installed. I wired each room to it's own breaker and in some cases put different appliances on their own breaker, such as refrigerator and furnace. It was a slow job, but because I was putting each room on it's own breaker, it allowed me to have the rest of the house turned on while working. And I have an education in electricity and electronics, as well as being taught by my dad when I was a kid, so the various sources of my training all came together for this project.

This was back when I purchased this house over 35 years ago. I had plans on making one room a studio, so I made sure to put some outlets on a different breaker than others, so lamps and amps and other things wouldn't affect the recording gear. Simple things like a rheostat on the ceiling lights could cause nasty noises in a recording.

Things to look for in an old house. Check the wiring. Find out when the house was built, if you can. That will tell you a lot. And if it's been remodeled, don't assume everything was done to code. Check it, or have someone check it for you. It's already been mentioned that you can get a cheap wiring tester that plugs into an electrical outlet to see if something is wired incorrectly. And don't assume because one is wired correctly that every one is wired correctly. Even the smartest human makes mistakes. You can only hope a dyslectic electrician didn't wire your house.

If you find out the house was old, you need to do some more checking. Get up in the attic and check connections up there. See if the wire is Romex or if it's just single stranded wire. Check for wire nuts and electrical tape. If there is tape, check to see if it's the sticky kind or is it the newer plastic coated kind. That helps to tell you if the wiring has been updated recently. Old electrical tape was sticky on both sides.

Now, if you find any of these things, all is not lost. It just tells you you will need to make sure the line is clean enough for installing digital equipment. Take it from someone who's been through it. It can be a small nightmare, but it isn't always the case. If the house has been remodeled recently, hopefully they also remodeled the wiring, too. If they were smart, they did.
 
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open up any outlet and make sure there are 3 wires. black(hot),white(neutral), bare or green( ground). look in the electrical panel and look for adequate amount of circuits and that the ground wires and neutral wires are not on the same buss bar. if they are, the must be separated or you're going to encounter problems. visible evidence is your best method !
 
Coming into this thread as late as this, I'm sure someone has already mentioned some of the things I'm about to mention. But, coming from a different person's brain, things can be explained differently and maybe that different perspective can make it clearer or easier to understand.

First, it is very true that you can't test electricity for the issues that hinder recording by looking. You also can't tell my just plugging something in. But, when looking at an older house, and particularly a farm house, you can spot things that might spell out trouble. Someone may have already fixed it, but if not, the trouble might be something you'll have to deal with yourself.

As has already been said, the code these days is to have the hot wire always on the same prong, the neutral on the other and an earth ground is now the standard, too. Back when everything was analog, circuits were a lot more forgiving and able to withstand some fluctuation in the AC line. This meant you could actually have incorrect wiring (to a point) and everything would still work. Then, you had to deal with AC giving you ground hum and phase buzz that didn't really show up unless you had an amp with speakers. And depending on the outlet you plugged the amp into, you might not even hear these things. And if you happened to have a compressor from a refrigerator or air conditioner on the same circuit, those surges when it went on and off really didn't bother things that much. So, in the old days of analog, wiring wasn't that much of a problem.

But, in the digital world, wiring really has to be correct, or it can eventually damage your digital equipment. The hot wire must be correct,and then the neutral must be correct. And the earth ground is also necessary. It's sad, but many homes built before these standards were in force still have the old analog standard and people can purchase digital devices and find that they don't last as long as they should. A computer on the same circuit as a room air conditioner can die a death too soon, because that compressor keeps going on and off, causing spikes and surges to pummel the computer. People assume everything is OK, as long as everything turns on. Electrical issues can be hidden and unless you are aware of them, your expensive equipment is doomed to an early death.

When I first moved into my house, I didn't know it was built in 1939. Back then, the electrical code was pretty loose. There was just a two wire system and in many cases, electrical tape wasn't even necessary. Wire nuts hadn't been invented yet, so wires were just twisted together with pliers. The two wires were passed through studs and joists by drilling holes and this was how the two wires were kept at a safe distance apart. In many cases they were completely separate wires and if they were together in a jacket, the jacket was made of paper impregnated with tar.

I found some of those wires that had been twisted together with pliers were no longer twisted as tightly as they should be. There were times when I would lose power in a room, and that power loss didn't throw a breaker. I had to get up in the attic and jiggle wires to see which connection was at fault. That told me I had purchased a potential electrical nightmare. If one connection could become loose, what would keep others from getting loose? The sad answer to that question is nothing.

I found that the wire itself was good #12 wire, but it was the connections that were suspect. And there was no earth ground in the house at all. Someone had replaced all of the outlets with the new 3 prong type, leading people to assume there was updated wiring. And because the former homeowner's father had done much of the changes, some of the hot wires were incorrectly connected to the neutral prong of the outlets.

So, I had incorrect wiring, no earth ground and some connections coming loose. No wire nuts or electrical tape was a big issue for me. I didn't like the idea of the two wires (hot and neutral) to be so close together without anything to keep them from touching. That's just how it was done back then, but we now know these things are a problem waiting to happen. Why play with fate?

So, I decided to rewire my whole house. In the process of doing that, I found that every wall outlet in the house was on one breaker. It didn't matter what room that outlet was in, it was on that same breaker. I was beginning to wonder how this house had passed electrical code before the sale. I'm sure there had been some underhanded money changing hands somewhere. Also, all of the wall outlets were about 3 feet from the floor. That was how things were done "back in the day". New methods have outlets about a foot from the floor. So, if you see outlets that high, that should also tell you a little about the age of the house and maybe the age of the wiring.

I finally got the wiring all finished...new #12, 3 wire Romex, to go with the new outlets that were already installed. I wired each room to it's own breaker and in some cases put different appliances on their own breaker, such as refrigerator and furnace. It was a slow job, but because I was putting each room on it's own breaker, it allowed me to have the rest of the house turned on while working. And I have an education in electricity and electronics, as well as being taught by my dad when I was a kid, so the various sources of my training all came together for this project.

This was back when I purchased this house over 35 years ago. I had plans on making one room a studio, so I made sure to put some outlets on a different breaker than others, so lamps and amps and other things wouldn't affect the recording gear. Simple things like a rheostat on the ceiling lights could cause nasty noises in a recording.

Things to look for in an old house. Check the wiring. Find out when the house was built, if you can. That will tell you a lot. And if it's been remodeled, don't assume everything was done to code. Check it, or have someone check it for you. It's already been mentioned that you can get a cheap wiring tester that plugs into an electrical outlet to see if something is wired incorrectly. And don't assume because one is wired correctly that every one is wired correctly. Even the smartest human makes mistakes. You can only hope a dyslectic electrician didn't wire your house.

If you find out the house was old, you need to do some more checking. Get up in the attic and check connections up there. See if the wire is Romex or if it's just single stranded wire. Check for wire nuts and electrical tape. If there is tape, check to see if it's the sticky kind or is it the newer plastic coated kind. That helps to tell you if the wiring has been updated recently. Old electrical tape was sticky on both sides.

Now, if you find any of these things, all is not lost. It just tells you you will need to make sure the line is clean enough for installing digital equipment. Take it from someone who's been through it. It can be a small nightmare, but it isn't always the case. If the house has been remodeled recently, hopefully they also remodeled the wiring, too. If they were smart, they did.


How do you know Rolex doesn't make electrical wire? They do pretty well with watches! LOL.
 
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