Multitracking on a Teac A-3340s

assman

Member
after a year of wondering what i should do with my reel-to-reel, i finally realized i could just use my yamaha mt400 four-track as a MIXER for the a3340s. (i bought some rca to 1/4" cables)

Now i got a couple of questions...

When I monitor all the tracks with the mt400, i have a couple of volume sliders on it (1 theres the volume for each track, 2 the stereo volume; like the master and 3 the headphones volume). I usually set the master around 7 and the track volumes also around 7. The headphones volume is below 5.

On the Teac A-3340s there's the output volume for each track and the mic input volume fo each track as well.

How the hell do i know what volume I should put to each of them? Because it seems that, in order to get a sound that isn't distorted, my output volume on the Teac has to be verrrryy low, same goes for the mic input volume. I try to base myself off the VU meters when recording(trying to keep it under red).

what volume should i keep low? lower the master on the four track? turn up the monitor volume on the Teac? what should i prioritize?

thanks
 
i'm all monitoring this thru my 4-track, by plugging my headphones in it.

also, my mic is plugged in directly into the teac (so i'm basically using the mt400 just to be able to monitor all four tracks on the Teac)
 
Someone smarter than me will likely chime in with a more technically nuanced answer, however:

I would set the levels to sound good using the headphone out on the 3340. You’d likely have to consult a manual for what “0” level is supposed to be on the Teac output (and it actually depends on how it’s calibrated, so who knows unless you calibrate it yourself), but I’d start somewhere maybe around 2 o‘clock on the 3340 outs, then set the input to hover around red at the peak. You could play around with whatever input/output combo sounds best to you on playback. Main point is get the Yamaha out of the equation until you have a decent starting point.

Once you have a decent reference for what sounds good, it doesn’t really matter what the output levels are if you’re just monitoring via the Yamaha - it’s just a volume knob. Just set output low on the Teac if that’s what the Yamaha likes.

I’d recommend getting a Teac Model 2 mixer - much better pairing than that cassette mixer, and a way better quality with more character IMO. They’re dirt cheap too.
 
^ my outs are at 2 right now (not 2 o clock tho haha) because if i put it higher i get distortion. But yeah I feel you, I'll monitor the volumes on the Teac and then adjust from there. and i've seen those model 2 mixers before, haven't had the chance to spot one under 500$ tho, but i'll be on the lookout.

I've just remembered that in addition to all those volume sliders on the Yamaha, there's also a gain knob for each tracks which is turned all the way up; i'll try turning it down and see how it sounds.
 
I’d recommend getting a Teac Model 2 mixer - much better pairing than that cassette mixer, and a way better quality with more character IMO. They’re dirt cheap too.

The Model 2 is perhaps the worst mixing device ever made. It has no headroom, limited functionality, and is an RFI magnet. From that era, I'd suggest a TASCAM Model 3.
 
^ my outs are at 2 right now (not 2 o clock tho haha) because if i put it higher i get distortion. But yeah I feel you, I'll monitor the volumes on the Teac and then adjust from there. and i've seen those model 2 mixers before, haven't had the chance to spot one under 500$ tho, but i'll be on the lookout.

I've just remembered that in addition to all those volume sliders on the Yamaha, there's also a gain knob for each tracks which is turned all the way up; i'll try turning it down and see how it sounds.

Yeh if it’s distorting above two, it’s too hot for the Yamaha (I know nothing about the Yamaha, but I’m familiar w the 3340).

The Model 2 should be less than $100.
 
The Model 2 is perhaps the worst mixing device ever made. It has no headroom, limited functionality, and is an RFI magnet. From that era, I'd suggest a TASCAM Model 3.

Well ... I respect your opinion, but it certainly beats a comparable Mackie or whatever in my personal experience.

The mike preamps are noisy, yeh. But he’s using the mike preamps in the 3340. For mixing a 4 track, I think the Model 2 is good - also considering maybe the OP’s situation ... using the Model 2 vs a cassette 4-track as a mixer.

The Model 3 Is definitely superior in every way, but I’ve noticed they are selling for more $$$ these days. Model 2s are plentiful and cheap, and IME a good mate for the 3340. I personally preferred the Model 2 with the last 3340 I had because of the smaller size.
 
The line outputs of the Teac 3340 are spec'd at 0.3v.

The line inputs of the MT400 are spec'd at -10dB with 0db being referenced to 0.775V. That means they are using the dBu scale. That also means -10dB should be about 0.25V.

The gain knob should be fully left, otherwise you'll be sending too much signal into the channel preamp. It will still be a bit in the strong side (a couple of dB).
 
I've turned down the gain knobs on the yamaha (they are below half the max volume now) and turned up the outs on the Teac up to 6-7 and it sounds pretty good to me.

only problem now is getting rid of some noise...

i'm using a (kinda shitty mic but sounds good) f50 audix, xlr to 1/4" impedence converter or whatever they call it. everytime i plug it into the teac, there's this buzzing noise. now i don't know if i need to somehow clean the mic inputs maybe (how would go about doing that). also getting some noise with the simul-sync switches, but i usually just switch em on/off until they stop screatching.
 
The line outputs of the Teac 3340 are spec'd at 0.3v.

The line inputs of the MT400 are spec'd at -10dB with 0db being referenced to 0.775V. That means they are using the dBu scale. That also means -10dB should be about 0.25V.

The gain knob should be fully left, otherwise you'll be sending too much signal into the channel preamp. It will still be a bit in the strong side (a couple of dB).

hell yeah that's exactly what i did and it sounds much better/normal
 
The line outputs of the Teac 3340 are spec'd at 0.3v.

The line inputs of the MT400 are spec'd at -10dB with 0db being referenced to 0.775V. That means they are using the dBu scale. That also means -10dB should be about 0.25V.

The gain knob should be fully left, otherwise you'll be sending too much signal into the channel preamp. It will still be a bit in the strong side (a couple of dB).

I knew someone would show up with the facts ha

But if I recall the 3340, the VUs correspond to the output, not input? I would think you’d want a decent visual reference on the VUs. It would also depend on calibration, but I think “if it sounds good, it is good” should apply mostly.

If it were me, I’d definitely want to know where I was at with the Yamaha out of the equation before recording. For my Ampex gear, we would mark with a sticker or pencil what “0” is on the output knob after calibrating.

EDIT: just realized you’re talking about the gain knobs on the Yamaha, not the Teac outputs ha.
 
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Well ... I respect your opinion, but it certainly beats a comparable Mackie or whatever in my personal experience.

The mike preamps are noisy, yeh. But he’s using the mike preamps in the 3340. For mixing a 4 track, I think the Model 2 is good - also considering maybe the OP’s situation ... using the Model 2 vs a cassette 4-track as a mixer.

The Model 3 Is definitely superior in every way, but I’ve noticed they are selling for more $$$ these days. Model 2s are plentiful and cheap, and IME a good mate for the 3340. I personally preferred the Model 2 with the last 3340 I had because of the smaller size.

FWIW, there's a home recording book by Craig Anderton (I think) with Sting on the cover that has a 3440 paired with a Teac 5. Those are pretty good and about as much as a Model 3.
 
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I am going to guess that the 3340 and the 3440 that we have are electrically identical. (why would they not be?) Many, many moons ago son used the 3440 to build tracks but input was from a Behringer Xenxy 802 mixer* and mic was a cheap Currys dynamic afront a 15W WEM amp. We progressed to a Sontronics STC-2 LDC mainly for acoustic guitar and the odd vocal. Signals were exchanged at the RCA line sockets at the nominal -10dBV 316mV. The only noise issues were the inevitable build up of tape hiss.

Come the M-Audio 2496 soundcard and he could dump tracks to computer and bounce and mix them without noise issues. Eventually however, the limited playing time of tape and it other hassles caused him to go "ITB" and entirely digitally.

*This was replaced with an A&H zed 10 which was not much better for noise (i.e. still low) than the Berry but had more headroom. The latter is however academic when driving a neg ten tape machine!

Forgot. Someone mentioned "alignment"? FCS DON'T attempt this with the internal presets!!
You need a calibrated signal generator, a calibrated AC millivoltmeter and test tapes. A distortion analyser is very handy as well as is a PROFOUND knowledge of the procedures involved and service manual.

Dave.
 
I am going to guess that the 3340 and the 3440 that we have are electrically identical. (why would they not be?) Many, many moons ago son used the 3440 to build tracks but input was from a Behringer Xenxy 802 mixer* and mic was a cheap Currys dynamic afront a 15W WEM amp. We progressed to a Sontronics STC-2 LDC mainly for acoustic guitar and the odd vocal. Signals were exchanged at the RCA line sockets at the nominal -10dBV 316mV. The only noise issues were the inevitable build up of tape hiss.

.

I don't believe the electronics were identical. Performance of the 3440 surpassed the 3340 be a pretty large degree.
 
I don't believe the electronics were identical. Performance of the 3440 surpassed the 3340 be a pretty large degree.

Well that's nice to know! I would however expect the operating levels to be comparable?

BTW, as a service tech I hate this "if it sound right it IS right" philosophy! That mindset, especially with tape can lead you down a noisy, distorted path to crapolla.

Yes, the VU meters read the output but you can switch them to 'source' or tape and see if what comes off tape is the same as that going in. The 3440 input controls are numbered 0 to 10 so you can set them to say 7 (a logic that will be lost on many here!) and arrange the external feed to blip to 0VU or a bit above if desired. Then leave the fekker ALONE.

Ideally you want a modern high output tape and then pay an expert to set up and bias the machine for optimum results. Sadly such experts are now as rare as hen's teeth.

Dave.
 
Well that's nice to know! I would however expect the operating levels to be comparable?

BTW, as a service tech I hate this "if it sound right it IS right" philosophy! That mindset, especially with tape can lead you down a noisy, distorted path to crapolla.

Yes, the VU meters read the output but you can switch them to 'source' or tape and see if what comes off tape is the same as that going in. The 3440 input controls are numbered 0 to 10 so you can set them to say 7 (a logic that will be lost on many here!) and arrange the external feed to blip to 0VU or a bit above if desired. Then leave the fekker ALONE.

Ideally you want a modern high output tape and then pay an expert to set up and bias the machine for optimum results. Sadly such experts are now as rare as hen's teeth.

Dave.

Operating levels were the same.
 
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